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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 61

post #901 of 1487

One of our DIY'ers?

 

http://blog.shewu.me/2013/05/the-birth-of-homemade-electrostatic.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+DoesntExist+(Doesn't+Exist)

post #902 of 1487

 

Those are my headphones, posted about them several pages back. The website is not mine though, as someone else took the photos.

post #903 of 1487
Very cool. I hope you don't mind me posting your handy work again. I think we've got a few bytes left on the interweb and I think these efforts are so cool they deserve lots of post! Really well done.
post #904 of 1487
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chazman View Post



Here's some of the first bits from the CNC and makings, hopefully will be able to get on it next weekend when I am back from holiday :-)

 

Wow!  They look really nice.  What''s the size of the active area?

 

Wachara C.

post #905 of 1487
Thread Starter 

 

Nice work!  Thanks for sharing.

 

Wachara C.

post #906 of 1487
The active area is about 95mm x 65mm eliptical using 2mm holes and around 63% open area. Have made them quite up to the edge so there shouldnt be much etching needed. They are quite compact and perhaps the active area could be a bit bigger but will look in to that next time.

Question - when you did the etching did you do it after you put the wholes in it? Was thinking about sanding them nice and flat and just going over all of it needed with a perm marker but worried it might etch under the marker around the holes...?
post #907 of 1487
Thread Starter 
I'm still learning how to etch PCB properly. frown.gif

The easiest way for me to do is that I use my spacer to cover the edge of PCB where I want to chemically etch out and spray paint the active stator area. The part where the wire connection is, I use permanent marker to paint over it.

Yes, I drill all the holes and cut them into shape before doing chemical etching. Dude_500 seems to do a better job of etching. Let's hear his method.

Your active area of 95 x 65 is good.

Wachara C.
post #908 of 1487
Thread Starter 

I bought this Stax SRM252A amp from a friend for a while now.  I never thought that it could sound this good.  L3000.gif

 

 

post #909 of 1487
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post

I bought this Stax SRM252A amp from a friend for a while now.  I never thought that it could sound this good.  L3000.gif

 

 

What's that shiny thing inside the ear pads? Did you make the dust protector on the ear side out of mylar or cling film?

post #910 of 1487
Thread Starter 

Yes, it's the dust protection diaphrgam and it's a must have.  I use 0.9 micron film for it.

post #911 of 1487

For etching away, I do it after machining the stators. I print the appropriate oval and contact tab on a laser printer, toner-transfer it on right over the holes, etch it, and then clean the toner off with your solvent of choice. Problem is sometimes it leaves a bit of paper residue in the holes, so I often run a drill bit through all the holes with a hand drill to clean the paper out which is a pain but only takes a few minutes. 

 

Sharpie works alright for touchups, but often times it'll be partially etched through so it looks really bad and you get less copper density remaining. I would not advise using a sharpie for the full mask. You can buy transfer pens though that don't etch through, they may even have them at radioshack (they used to, but likely stopped carrying that stuff by now).

post #912 of 1487

 For etch resist:    Sharpie Paint pens,  oil based...

 

they work for me and are at the "office stores"

 

I like the fine tip....

post #913 of 1487
Thanks for the advice all - I went and used the sharpie option (after doing some test runs) so I could get nice a precise with the copper I wanted to remove. Seemed to work well and left the rest of the material in good shape.

Also been putting together the cabling, bought a set of Stax Lambda Signature with a SRD-7 pro (which to my delight I am exploring!) but going full custom for now with 3mm high insulated 600v cable (advantage of being able to get large amounts of high quality cable from work!!) and spent several hours putting it in to a nice pattern which I will terminate with a custom Stax plug I am building - here is a little peak - - in progress (it's much tidier now)

- finished waiting to be fitted to plug and phones

2m, 6 cable braid, took about an hour after learning how to do it from a guide on the net, whatever it looks different!! :-)

Oh for reference found a better thing than the extension cable for Stax and that is to get a replacement 202 cable, little tricky to find but only £30 rather than £70 for extension cable....

Chaz

P.s. RadioShack doesn't exist in the UK anymore, pretty sure they went bankrupt here, real pain but have something similar called Maplins :-)
Edited by Chazman - 5/5/13 at 3:26pm
post #914 of 1487

That cable looks like it will probably work pretty well. With all that space in between braids, capacitance will probably be even lower than a typical ribbon cable. 

 

I just replaced my poorly performing generic ribbon cable with Koss ESP950 cable last week and the cable seems to work very well. You can call Koss customer service and get it for $13 per 2 meter extension cable, plus $3 shipping. Pretty good price, much better than any stax cable options.

post #915 of 1487
Thread Starter 
Koss cable is indeed good and cheap.

@Chaz: Your cable looks really nice. I'm sure that it'll be very good with your headphones. Now, just put everything together. I'm really eager to see your finished headphones. smily_headphones1.gif

Wachara C.
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