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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 54

post #796 of 1634
Quote:
Originally Posted by bidoux View Post

Maybe a cheap DT880 clone ? something like a Superlux HD-330 ? No idea if it would work alright.

But if you do get the CNC you could build everything from scratch cool.gif

 

Hadn't thought of that...

 

The Superlux look like they might be a good bet though.

 

w

post #797 of 1634

I'd be worried about that band in the middle of the earcups.  Backwave reflection is a pain and does a lot of harm. 

post #798 of 1634

So an open back is essential? That's something I wondered about, but never having had my hands on any electrostatics, I just didn't know, and nobody has said explicitly in the thread (I think). I've read most of it, but skimmed a few pages.

 

Maybe the phones would survive having the band cut off. Or maybe a layer of absorbent material stuck on. Sheepskin? They look useful for the price.

 

w

post #799 of 1634

Electrostatics are true dipoles so equal radiation front and back.  If anything reflects the backwave towards the front then there are numerous issues.  That is not to say it can't be done but the only good closed electrostatic is the Stax 4070.  There they used a clever bass reflex system to minimize the effect plus the neat chassis design.  Koss went a different route, they grounded the back stator or drove it at a diminished level to minimize the backwave.  Essentially single ended but the effect is minimized with the grounded back stator. 

post #800 of 1634

Interesting. I wonder what happens if you don't perforate the rear stator, except for a small hole to allow equalization of atmospheric pressure, like an acoustic suspension speaker. Half a millimeter is a wavelength at 640.58kHz. Or a delay of 1.5 uSec. Something to try when I get moving with this. 

 

First CNC guy came back with a counteroffer 1.5% down on original price, second place I tried still hasn't responded to my best offer. At this rate I might as well pay the full asking price.

post #801 of 1634

Do you hate bass and mids? No? ...then don't even try it. wink.gif

post #802 of 1634
Acoustic reflections occur with both an open and close back design (against popular belief) but the reflections are much worse in case of a closed back / affecting all frequencies and need to be handled by some acoustic sound absorbers.

In estat, there's another implication: the acoustic load the configuration presents to the diaphragm. A quasi non-perforated rear stator would certainly do something, not sure it'd be of any advantage though...

And another implication: the damping of the diaphragm motion through viscous effects in the DS gap / through the perforations / through the nearby felt or foam. Arguably, the foam/felt being the most influencial on the damping, with a closed back stator you'd loose the opportunity to damp the diaphragm from the rear stator.

About the delay for reflections, you should also consider those from the pinna.
post #803 of 1634
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmarokCZ View Post

Do you hate bass and mids? No? ...then don't even try it. wink.gif

L3000.gifbeerchug.gif

post #804 of 1634

I've never been put off an experiment by the fact that it might produce a negative result. A negative result is still a result.biggrin.gif

 

If you're saying you've tried it...

 

2u mylar arrived today. I bought the CNC mill.

 

w

post #805 of 1634
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wakibaki View Post

If you're saying you've tried it...

 

 

Oh yes, I have.  wink_face.gif


Edited by chinsettawong - 4/15/13 at 8:27am
post #806 of 1634

So you must have thought it was a good idea at one time?

 

w

post #807 of 1634

I've tried it as well.  Not a good idea but it had to be tested.  Same as applying bias to the stators and drive the diaphragm SE, reduced operation on one stator etc. etc. 

 

Personally I'd just stick with the classic setup. 

post #808 of 1634
Thread Starter 

I'm sure W will try it somehow.  wink_face.gif

post #809 of 1634

I have a question about the type of glue that can be used to attach the diaphragm on the stator. I have been using epoxy glue but it is hard to do something clean. I was thinking of trying super glue, which is more liquid but I am not sure if it is a good idea. Any input ?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by wakibaki View Post

2u mylar arrived today. I bought the CNC mill.

 

w

I think you will be drilling lots of tiny round holes in the near future biggrin.gif Congrats


Edited by bidoux - 4/15/13 at 9:41am
post #810 of 1634
Thread Starter 

The best glue that I've found so far is contact cement (yellow rubber glue).  L3000.gif

 

Wachara C.

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