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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 47

post #691 of 1585

Keep in mind doing so alters the strength of the electrostatic force and thus decreases efficiency.

post #692 of 1585
I believe copper surface still remains the same.
 
Nevertheless, the diameter of stator holes is still constrained at the copper face. 
 
I am afraid the "mouth" you propose may reduce the stator rigidity and that could increase distortion.
 
Let’s hear from Wachara.
post #693 of 1585

You're right, I was reading it upside-down.

post #694 of 1585
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgazal View Post

I believe copper surface still remains the same.
 
Nevertheless, the diameter of stator holes is still constrained at the copper face. 
 
I am afraid the "mouth" you propose may reduce the stator rigidity and that could increase distortion.
 
Let’s hear from Wachara.

 

i think you are right

 

it was just an idea - like i said "it might improve SQ"

post #695 of 1585
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterroumian View Post

me too

 

wachara, i had an idea for improving the design of the holes. here it is - tell me what do you think. Left is the "original", right i think might improve air flow. it's important that the copper is untouched because if we go deeper it may start to peal

 

 

400


Hi Peterroumian,

 

Thanks for sharing your interesting idea.  I really don't know if the shape can improve anything.  You can try though.

 

For what I know, the sound from the diaphragm shoots out like a beam.  It goes in a straight line.  Are you suggesting that by making the holes like that the dispersing of sound will improve?  Why would you want to do that?

 

While we are on this topic, I think there is something that really worth looking into.  As you can notice, the stator of SR007 is partially closed and the open part covered with perforated holes is only 55 mm in diameter out of 78 mm diameter of total copper covered area (active area).  I have been listening to a SR007 MKII against my new Orpheus, and I find that the bass of SR007 is quite punchier.  While mine can go as deep, they just don't sound as punchy as SR007.  I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the stator that is partially closed making the air inside compressed and thus punchier.

 

 

 

 

Wachara C.

post #696 of 1585

Wachara, I had looked at some point at the stiffening effect on the stator when reducing the perforated diameter (stator flexion is a known issue) but I could not see any significant changes in stator mechanical resonances (I posted in this thread some time ago). So, I now wonder about the increased / more homogeneous force on the non-perforated conductive surface which would improve the transduction.

post #697 of 1585

Is the 007 the only headphone by Stax with such a large non perforated area?

post #698 of 1585

Nope, SR-001 is mostly solid copper with openings just where the went is at the back and the port into the ear.  The intent is clearly improved control via airdamping to get rid of the dreaded HF etch. 

post #699 of 1585

Hello,

 

I recently have been trying to get into stax headphones, but let's just say I am not the greatest at winning auctions. I am however good at DIY stuff, and I would like to put together my own headphones. 

 

Before I do that though, I need an amp...otherwise what is the point of making electrostats. 

 

Can someone point me in the direction of a DIY amp for electrostatic headphones? Preferably one that uses tubes? 

post #700 of 1585
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post

Wachara, I had looked at some point at the stiffening effect on the stator when reducing the perforated diameter (stator flexion is a known issue) but I could not see any significant changes in stator mechanical resonances (I posted in this thread some time ago). So, I now wonder about the increased / more homogeneous force on the non-perforated conductive surface which would improve the transduction.

 

Does a second completely etched PCB glued to the first PCB improve stiffening?

 

I am imagining both PCB glued to form one stator.

 

Then the transducer would also have that bigger center hole.

 

I have drawn it, but not to scale. First the "color code": 

 

  • "beige" for etched PCB (inactive stator area);
  • "yellow" and "fence texture" for active not perforated and perforate area.

 

Here it is:

 

 

Do you think that center hole is prone to flexion?

 

And here I have another draw from Arnaud idea of different diaphragm masses (in this case three different diaphragms):

 

 

 

Just in case someone finds a way to produce it, here it is another idea. A rounded perforated stator, which I can't even draw correctly. It also has a center ring for two different diaphragms masses:

 

 


Edited by jgazal - 12/29/12 at 5:44pm
post #701 of 1585

Here is an idea for you guys. Why not electroplate your PCB in silver. Your headphones will probably be more efficient. 

post #702 of 1585
Thread Starter 

It's fun to have you guys comment on new ideas. 

 

Arnuad, is it possible to do a simulation on the SR007 style stator?  I really wonder if the closed part makes a difference in low frequencies.

 

Tjj226 Angel, I recommended a simple to build tube amp here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/498292/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones#post_6732478

The efficiency of the drivers is greatly dependent on the bias voltage.  The bigger size of the driver helps the sound volume too.

 

Jgazal, I don't think segregating the diaphragm into smaller sections is a good idea.  While the middle circle can indeed produce good treble, the outer bigger circle won't do a good job producing good bass.  Good bass comes from large active area.  By limiting the diaphragm with additional spacers in between might just make the driver becoming a big tweeter.  Well, unless you can make your driver very, very big.  bigsmile_face.gif

 

Happy New Year!

 

Wachara C.

post #703 of 1585
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post

It's fun to have you guys comment on new ideas. 

 

Arnuad, is it possible to do a simulation on the SR007 style stator?  I really wonder if the closed part makes a difference in low frequencies.

 

Tjj226 Angel, I recommended a simple to build tube amp here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/498292/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones#post_6732478

The efficiency of the drivers is greatly dependent on the bias voltage.  The bigger size of the driver helps the sound volume too.

 

Jgazal, I don't think segregating the diaphragm into smaller sections is a good idea.  While the middle circle can indeed produce good treble, the outer bigger circle won't do a good job producing good bass.  Good bass comes from large active area.  By limiting the diaphragm with additional spacers in between might just make the driver becoming a big tweeter.  Well, unless you can make your driver very, very big.  bigsmile_face.gif

 

Happy New Year!

 

Wachara C.

 

Yeah, I read that post. But I don't know how to read a circuit map and turn it into a thing. frown.gif

 

I was wondering if there was more of a tutorial with pictures. 

 

Edit: Or a good guide on how to read circuit maps because all the guides I find aren't all that great. 

post #704 of 1585
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post

It's fun to have you guys comment on new ideas. 

 

(...)

 

Jgazal, I don't think segregating the diaphragm into smaller sections is a good idea.  While the middle circle can indeed produce good treble, the outer bigger circle won't do a good job producing good bass.  Good bass comes from large active area.  By limiting the diaphragm with additional spacers in between might just make the driver becoming a big tweeter.  Well, unless you can make your driver very, very big.  bigsmile_face.gif

 

Happy New Year!

 

Wachara C.

 

 

I agree that segregating the diaphragm into three sections is not a good idea. 
 
I was just brain storming... :-) 
 
Anyway, I like the first draw most, since it is feasible with your current techniques.
 
Happy New Year!
post #705 of 1585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjj226 Angel View Post

Here is an idea for you guys. Why not electroplate your PCB in silver. Your headphones will probably be more efficient. 

 

Silver is only like 6% more conductive than copper IIRC.  I don't think it'd be worth the cost difference.

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