Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › My DIY electrostatic headphones
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 172

post #2566 of 2571

just : is my idea of the membrane of one driver being not tensed enough bad ? because I have no problem with another driver with the same voltage and same thickness.

post #2567 of 2571
Thread Starter 

You are dealing with some very old headphones.  Many things going wrong aren't surprising.

 

I would try thicker spacers.  For pro bias, a total spacer thickness of around 0.45 to 0.5 mm is just nice.

post #2568 of 2571

yap. But I don't have a tool to measure that.

anyway, since my last test I wrote here, the faulty driver became stable. it works !!

I think now that there is no reason why it could not work fine anymore nor not be mendable.

thanks for all.

the sound is astounding. these are by far my best headphones. and I have quite a good deal of them, either static, ortho, or dynamic.


Edited by wppk - 3/18/17 at 12:40am
post #2569 of 2571

anyway, I do think that bassy srx (normal or pro) is coming from a membrane that has lost a bit of tense. just like when you tense a drum, you have a more or less bassy sound.

but, as you explained to me ago ( about lambdas) , when you don't have the good tension of the mylar, you have problems of stability and noises. I think it doesn't come from the tension, not direclty, I think it could come from the mylar touching or approaching the stators too much. as my brand new experience tends to show it. now, I have found, after so many tests, the good distance between the stator and the mylar, so it works, and I have no noise nor imbalance. what do you think of that ? does it make sense ?


Edited by wppk - 3/18/17 at 12:47am
post #2570 of 2571

I was fooled by myslef like a rookie...

The bass difference is not coming from the membrane being looser... but of course it comes form the pads. As I received the new ones today, I could change them on two srx. and then they had the same sound !

as I had tested different pads on different srx, I had lost the original sound. but, on the last ones I mended, I used the original pads, and it makes a bassier sound than with previous pads. That is stupid from me, because I should have realised it. My little excuse for itis that I lost the standard sound after making tons of tests. Well, this is not really the standard sound, as it is better when removing the black ring ( photo sent yesterday).

I also tried with these bigger pads I ordered and showed the link for. We win a bit bass, but the drivers get further from the ears and of course, we loose some "cristality" in the highs. So, I prefer them with the original pads. Ordered new ones already as mine are very old and need replacement. but impossible to find the real original stax anymore, or at a huge price if I remember well. and not being sure they really are available. ordered the good size for somthing that will hav a chance to be compatible. Couldn't find as thin as the original. I will see if it makes it or not, and what it changes.

one good news among bad : my last repaired stax still is perfectly balanced.


Edited by wppk - 3/18/17 at 6:41am
post #2571 of 2571
Just finished a headphone listening test session.
Listening test general feedback:
Muamp#1 preferred aesthetically and acoustically. Muamp#2 not so extended at the top end, but Muamp#1 somewhere between SR007 and SR009, the SR009 having slightly stronger bass. Muamp#1 probably has better top end than #2 because it is completely open back, whereas #2 is only 70% open. Very pleased with the comments which will shape and direct my future builds. Muamp#3 will be Afromosa hardwood, but designed as #1.

David.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › My DIY electrostatic headphones