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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 83

post #1231 of 2486

Battle of the adhesives!

 

 

An assortment of different glues, spray adhesives, cements, and epoxy.  Most are "recommended for plastics".  Only a few are actually decent for Mylar.  Any recommendations I should order and throw into the gauntlet?

 

 

HE90 clones that I need to re cut (errors).  These are close to exact Sennheiser dimensions, just need smaller holes:

 

post #1232 of 2486
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3rdling View Post
 

 

An assortment of different glues, spray adhesives, cements, and epoxy.  Most are "recommended for plastics".  Only a few are actually decent for Mylar.  Any recommendations I should order and throw into the gauntlet?

 

You want to use contact cement, nothing else comes close. Specifically, I think I use DAP Weldwood contact cement (I've used a few brands, and they basically all work great).

 

Apply it to the frame, let it sit for 3-5 minutes, drop it on the mylar, and it's instantly bonded permanently. Only the most prominent bumps adhere right as it touches the surface, but when you flip it over just run your finger over the bonded area and it all sticks. After it's been squeezed in a headphone driver for a few days, you can't get it off even if you try (sometimes I do try if I want to reuse the frames, and it takes five minutes of scrubbing and peeling with strong solvents). 


Edited by dude_500 - 3/29/14 at 4:37pm
post #1233 of 2486
Thread Starter 
Yes, you want to use contact cement.
post #1234 of 2486
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_500 View Post
 

 

Specifically, I think I use DAP Weldwood contact cement

Yes!  I bought this stuff like 2 years ago when I first started messing with Mylar but couldn't remember the name of it.  I was recently going to build those HE90 clones for a local meet (drew everything up and had all pieces cut the night before) but I misplaced the cement.  I ended up having to use 3M Super 77 which I had laying around, and it totally ruined the project as it bubbled and out gassed too much, making the film lose tension in spots around the rim.  I was so bummed as I had everything ready, just needed assembling.  I just ran to Home Depot and grabbed a small bottle...I like this stuff because it comes with the convenient little brush applicator under the cap.  Thanks :)

post #1235 of 2486
Thread Starter 
Are you not going to etch out the copper around the outer ring of your stator, n3rdling?


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post #1236 of 2486

I'll make spares so I can etch one set and leave the other set alone

post #1237 of 2486
Thread Starter 

Hi Milos,

 

This is my design of HE90 clone based on the real measurement.

 

 

 

 

In the mean time, I am making another pair of my Oval shape headphones.  I'm learning to use danish oil to paint my wood.  I really like it.  :)

 

 

post #1238 of 2486

Wachara, you gotta stop sometime soon or you'll outdo the original... Simply marvelous! 

 

I was talking about your float inspired open baffle model earlier today to another french head-fief, I realize I absolutely miss your phone! Hopefully, you give me another chance to listen to them / or updated version once I receive my BHSE (I felt both cans were seriously underpowered by my 727 amp)!

 

Also, I never got a around to processing the measurements I made on these guys, I am truly sorry for letting you down there... I won't promise date anymore but it's certainly not forgotten. You manage great tuning by ear anyway so probably it's not a big deal ;)

 

Arnaud

post #1239 of 2486
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post
 

Wachara, you gotta stop sometime soon or you'll outdo the original... Simply marvelous! 

 

I was talking about your float inspired open baffle model earlier today to another french head-fief, I realize I absolutely miss your phone! Hopefully, you give me another chance to listen to them / or updated version once I receive my BHSE (I felt both cans were seriously underpowered by my 727 amp)!

 

Also, I never got a around to processing the measurements I made on these guys, I am truly sorry for letting you down there... I won't promise date anymore but it's certainly not forgotten. You manage great tuning by ear anyway so probably it's not a big deal ;)

 

Arnaud

 

 

Hi Arnaud,

 

I'll be glad to send the headphones to you. 

 

For these headphones, you'll really need a powerful amp.  I've not tried BHSE, but my DIY T2 and KGSSHV can drive them very well.

 

Wachara C.

post #1240 of 2486
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post
 

 

 

 

Those frames are beautiful. When I tried to make wood frames that held the drivers with milled out guides and everything, the piece warped severely in all directions by as much as an 1/8th of an inch. Do you do anything specific to keep them flat and in the correct oval dimensions after milling? I was using padauk wood, which for all I  know was simply a bad choice.

post #1241 of 2486
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_500 View Post
 

 

 

Those frames are beautiful. When I tried to make wood frames that held the drivers with milled out guides and everything, the piece warped severely in all directions by as much as an 1/8th of an inch. Do you do anything specific to keep them flat and in the correct oval dimensions after milling? I was using padauk wood, which for all I  know was simply a bad choice.

Thanks for your compliment.

 

No, I didn't do anything specifically to treat the wood.  I guess you need to find wood that's pretreated and you don't have to worry about it.  Given high humidity here, I think my wood does warp a little, but so far I haven't found that to be a problem.

 

By the way, I have another thing that I really want to share with you guys. 

 

Sometime last month when I went shopping in a supermarket, I got a bottle of concentrated floor cleaner.  It comes in a small sample bottle.  Guess what?  I put it on a test diaphragm and found the surface resistance to be as good as Staticide 6300 that I've recommended you guys before.  This stuff is super cheap, and it's readily available in a local supermarket here.  I've put it on my headphones for over a month now, and it's been performing very well.

 

So, if you can get the same stuff in your area, try it.  :L3000:

 


Edited by chinsettawong - 3/30/14 at 9:23am
post #1242 of 2486

Nice work Wachara :)  I like the look of the cups, shiny without a plastic look.  The stator holes look kinda strange, but I think that could be from taking the picture zoomed out?  If you ever need, I can use a program to automatically fill in the stators with holes at any angle/spacing/diameter/shape you need.  I can even make the holes custom (like hexagons, for example).  It has made designing much more efficient for me. 

 

Also, why is there a circle within a circle on the perimeter of the stators/spacers?  Do you plan to slightly countersink the stators?

 

Regarding the cleaner, that looks like a nice cheap option but I'm not sure how long it will last before starting to flake off the diaphragm.  The Licron and certain Staticides are supposed to be permanent ESD coatings. 

 

Arnaud, what did you think of the floats in comparison to the SR-009s?

post #1243 of 2486
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3rdling View Post
 

Nice work Wachara :)  I like the look of the cups, shiny without a plastic look.  The stator holes look kinda strange, but I think that could be from taking the picture zoomed out?  If you ever need, I can use a program to automatically fill in the stators with holes at any angle/spacing/diameter/shape you need.  I can even make the holes custom (like hexagons, for example).  It has made designing much more efficient for me. 

 

Also, why is there a circle within a circle on the perimeter of the stators/spacers?  Do you plan to slightly countersink the stators?

 

Regarding the cleaner, that looks like a nice cheap option but I'm not sure how long it will last before starting to flake off the diaphragm.  The Licron and certain Staticides are supposed to be permanent ESD coatings. 

 

Arnaud, what did you think of the floats in comparison to the SR-009s?

 

What program is it that you use that has this holes filling function?  That would save a lot of work.  :)

 

The outer circles are the ones for the stator.  The inner, smaller ones are for my top plate where I screw the whole thing to fix to.  I've forgotten to take them off when taking the picture.  All the holes align perfectly, but when I zoom in and take a snap shot, the holes don't look that good.  I don't know why.  The hole size and dimensions are based on my first measurement and your data.  I think this is as close to the real thing as it can be.

 

As for the floor cleaner, I like to mention it again that this could be a cheap alternative.  How long will it last?  I don't know.  But since we are doing DIY work, we can recoat the diaphragms anytime we want to.

 

By the way, the cleaner is very easy to apply.  Wipe it on and it dries in a few minutes.  However, it leaves a haze on the diaphragm.  I buff it off and the diaphragm is totally transparent.  The surface resistance stays at around 80 - 100 M Ohm per square even after a month.

 

Wachara C.

post #1244 of 2486

I'm using SolidWorks, but it's very expensive and can have a steep learning curve.  I much prefer to use normal CAD programs but none of the ones I own have a function for automating this process. 

 

I get the same issue with the stators looking weird when scaled down.  I think it's just a resolution problem, but no big deal. 

 

Do you have a Megger or how are you measuring such a high resistance accurately?

 

I see you've moved on to using additive instead of subtractive tabs.  I was thinking of doing this but I didn't want to make the walls of the cups too thin in that lower area, especially with the cable already hanging from there.  Have you run into any issues with the protruding tabs?  Seems like they would make life easier.  I actually wanted to make mine 1/4" or 3/16" wide rectangles so that I could just crimp quick disconnects onto the end of my Stax cable and not have to worry about soldering in that tight space.

 

I was thinking about the float clones and they seem like a fun project.  I know the original design doesn't bother with fully sealing earpads and this probably isn't a big issue since the drivers are so large and close to the ears, but have you tried to use massive sealing earpads?  I think the bass could be incredible.  :D

post #1245 of 2486
Thread Starter 

Yes, I have a 4 Giga ohm 1000V resistance meter by Fluke.  I bought it just to check the resistance on the diaphragm.  :jecklinsmile: 

 

Actually I design the Orpheus stator and spacer tabs similar to the real one.  I think either additive or subtractive tabs are fine.  It also depends on the way you design your cups too.  One thing that I don't understand about HE90 is that why do they put the taps at the top instead of bottom closer to the cable entry?

 

 

This is how I would do it.

 

 

 

Float style headphones certainly is fun.  The headphones sound very much like a pair of loudspeakers.  Though they don't have close ear pads, but the bass can go really deep.  You won't hear as much details as the ones with pads, but they'll certainly put a smile on your face.  No I have not made big ear pads for them, but I'm sure that if I do, the headphones will give a lot of bass.  

 

Wachara C.

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