I really admire your work here in this thread. I hope I can make my own 'stats some day. How do you avoid dust in the driver when making the 'stats? I am to open up my lambda sigs due to dust in the driver, and I have been told my changes of removing the dust without making the issues worse are fairly slim unless I have a dust free environment (which I don't)
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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 78post #1156 of 252712/30/13 at 7:35am
Head-Fi's Best Sellerspost #1157 of 252712/30/13 at 7:51amThread Starter
Yes, the dust can give you a really big headache. I don't have a clean room either. I just try to clean my work area before I do any disassembling work. I use a magnifying glass to look for dust and I like to use adhesive tape to stick up the small dust on the stator and diaphragm.
When you have some dust inside the driver, it's most likely that you have some holes on your dust covers. Over time, the moisture and dust find their way inside the driver and cause all kinds of problem. So, please check to see if your dust covers are still in good shape. You want to fix that too.
Wachara C.post #1158 of 252712/31/13 at 5:23am
Ohh, forgot I didn't reply. Well, there are small holes in the dust cover. Yet, there are no channel imbalance issues at the moment (there was some time ago). Now it is just buzzing and sizzling, usually after half an hour of use.. Therefore I suspect the dust is outside the stator and not between stator and diaphragm. I can't see any hairs or the like, though..post #1159 of 252712/31/13 at 11:32am
I don't have any experience with diagnosing real Stax headphones, but I've usually found on my DIY that dust on the stator or between stators causes a periodic popping noise, whereas dust in a stator hole, outside the stator, on the outer edge of the diaphragm holder, overhanging mylar (wouldn't be a problem in non-DIY headphones), or anything else that is just charged but not touching the stator to cause squealing sounds.
At this point, if it's squealing I don't even check the diaphragm.post #1160 of 25271/1/14 at 5:16amThread StarterHi Davidsh,
The humidity inside the cup can cause a problem, especially when you have some holes on your dust cover. You might want to try to patch up those holes using adhesive tapes and see if they help. If not, you'll need to redo the dust cover. It's very critical that all the dust covers are in good shape.
Happy New Year!
Edited by chinsettawong - 1/1/14 at 5:20ampost #1161 of 25271/1/14 at 6:17pmHappy new year to you two as well. Thank you for your help. I don't quite see how taping the dust cover should help on humidity, but I guess I'll try as soon as I get some thin double adhesive so I can seal the whole thing again when done.post #1162 of 25271/1/14 at 8:45pmThread Starter
You want to have an air tight environment inside the driver. With a pair of good dust covers on the front and the back, the humidity won't affect the driver. But if there are holes, especially on the dust cover facing your face, the moisture will eventually get inside the driver and cause problems. Taping those holes might or might not help. I'm not sure, but please try since you have nothing to lose.
Edited by chinsettawong - 1/2/14 at 5:23ampost #1163 of 25271/2/14 at 10:38am
thin plastic films aren't perfect moisture barriers - most plastics with polar molecular structure can carry ~1% equilibrium water molecules - and they diffuse right on through the film if there's a humidity difference
the diffusion through a sealed film does take some time but eventually the inside will be at the same as the average of the outside humiditypost #1164 of 25271/7/14 at 10:08am
I finally got around to switching from 0.8mm to 0.5mm on spacers of my Orpheus clones (been meaning to since day 1). As expected, volume approximately doubled for same voltage. It also sounds much better with a more open sound stage (this observation should be ignored since it is based entirely on the placebo effect since I can't double-blind without building a second pair of headphones).post #1165 of 25271/7/14 at 7:06pmThread Starter
Glad to hear that you've finally tried 0.5 mm spacers. With this thickness, I bet you need to be extra careful with the tensioning of the diaphragm and the dust on the stators. It takes me a lot of trials and errors just to get the right tension.
By the way, I want to share my thought with you about the stators of the new SR009. You must have noticed that there is a big hole right in the middle of the stators. The phones are quite a bit more efficient than SR007. If my thought is right, they make this hole there so that there isn't a pulling and pushing force in the very middle where it's the weakest point of the diaphragm. Therefore, you can use even thinner spacers. I think the spacer thickness of SR009 should be around 0.4 to 0.45mm. With less copper, the phones also sound more bright. I might try to build a pair using this concept to see if my thought is right.
Let's have fun building more headphones this year.
Wachara C.post #1166 of 25271/7/14 at 7:13pm
As it turns out, I actually did that about a month ago and never got around to posting about it. It makes it WAY more stable. I never even bothered painting the new stators because they're just so incredibly stable even as bare copper (there is absolutely no way my diaphragms tensioned as they are right now would be stable without that hole).
I'm not going to even pretend to be able to analyze the slight nuances to the sound quality it might make when it takes an hour to swap out stators, nothing dramatic.post #1167 of 25271/7/14 at 7:18pmThread Starter
Oh, that's nice to hear!
Then I guess my thought is right. With that hole there, the diaphragm is more stable, and you can actually use thinner spacers. I'm sure that it works even better in round shape stators.
Thanks for sharing.
Wachara C.post #1168 of 25271/7/14 at 9:02pm
That should also help with reducing small stator vibrations. I wonder if the limitation of diaphragm xmax changes the sound of the bass though. I would think it'd lead to less impact, any thoughts?
I took full measurements of my HE90 drivers a while back and from what I could tell the spacers seemed to be between 0.6 and 0.7mm in thickness. Keep in mind this was by eye though, so it was very hard to see. I remember thinking "there's no way that's less than 0.5mm" though.post #1169 of 25271/7/14 at 10:16pmThread Starter
I don't think that it would help with stator vibrations though. However, It might limit the max diaphragm vibation a bit, but you can also lower the diaphragm tension a little to help boost up the bass, IMO.
The spacer of HE90 is difinitely 0.5 or less. I've listen to them many times and they're as efficient as SR007. So, the thickness can't be more than SR007.
I also have made some measurements on HE90. But my measurements are taken from the outside of the frame looking inside. Do you happen to have the measurements of the exact dimension of the staor? Could you kindly share them with me? It would be interesting to try the exact dimensions and see if I can make them to sound exactly like the real thing.
Wachara C.post #1170 of 25271/7/14 at 11:02pm
I was surprised at the spacer thickness myself. They could have increased efficiency depending on the % of open area on the stator.
I have all the dimensions in a drawing I did when I had the drivers out in front of me. I'll sketch something up in CAD and message you tomorrow.
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