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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 77

post #1141 of 2424

2 microns: perfect? Mah!!  I do not know but it works well. Not easy to handle but 5 meters are sufficient for many tests.

Another source for the mylar in small qty is :   http://turnertoys.com/Mylar-Film.html  ( in U.S.)
I use laundry softener Comfort to coat the diaphragm, it is far better than graphite.

post #1142 of 2424

Thank you Paomag, but i have bought the mylar some days ago from the taiwanese seller. Soon i will have a lifetime supply of mylar because he offered me 60 meters of mylar at the same price of 40m plus elvamide so i bought 60m...

 

In the meantime i received my stax amp and my sr202, i love the esl sound the detail is incredible, but the faux leather earpads are a pain, i have the urge to build some esl headphones because the stax are the best headphones i have ever listened to.

 

Now that i can post images: here is my stator, is based on Wachara oval shaped design but is still in "beta stage" because i haven't decided how to build the enclosure and the headband. Wakibaki's headband seems nice and really sturdy but i'd like to use a different approach. I hope to keep a low driver weight so i can have a lighter headband, probably using only one strip of flexible steel like grados or sennheiser momentum.

 

The holes have a diameter of 2mm and the distance between each center is 3mm so i have a distance of1 mm between each row.

 

 

post #1143 of 2424
Thread Starter 
Your stator design looks nice.
post #1144 of 2424
Quote:
Originally Posted by federicopol View Post
 

The holes have a diameter of 2mm and the distance between each center is 3mm so i have a distance of1 mm between each row.

 

 

 

You might consider a 60* staggering pattern for the holes. This is what almost all electrostatic drivers use as you can achieve a much higher transparency.

post #1145 of 2424

Has anyone tried to make larger rectangular drivers like the jecklin floats yet? Or is everyone avoiding that since it would require a different amp? 

post #1146 of 2424
post #1147 of 2424

Cool!

 

Ok, guys I would like some advice. I am on holiday break, and I would like to finally sit down and build me some headphones. I have already made some electrostatics before, but I used stuff like plastic wrap just to build kind of a dry run headphone. 

 

I know this is kind of an ambiguous questions, but I am looking to build myself a kind of end all be all electrostatic headphone. Price is not a huge issue, and I am well aware that the sound is not only going to depend on the material and design I use, but also the build quality that I put into the headphone itself. 

 

Assuming that the build quality will be perfect, does anyone know of a really kick but design with a fair amount of bass and a really warm sound signature?

post #1148 of 2424

The SR-007 and SR-003 probably have the warmest sound signatures in the Stax lineup.  It's been hypothesized in the past that the reason for this is because they don't perforate the entire stator.  In other words, there are holes in the middle area of the stators and a thick border of solid material on the outer ring.

post #1149 of 2424
I'm still fairly new when it comes to electrostatic headphones.
  1. Do the diaphragms excite air particles as opposed to moving them like typical diaphragms?
  2. How does a Jecklin Float sound? The diaphragms aren't angled are they? If not, wouldn't the planar "air wave" be misaligned with one's ear?

Edited by miceblue - 12/28/13 at 1:36pm
post #1150 of 2424
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjj226 Angel View Post

Cool!

Ok, guys I would like some advice. I am on holiday break, and I would like to finally sit down and build me some headphones. I have already made some electrostatics before, but I used stuff like plastic wrap just to build kind of a dry run headphone. 

I know this is kind of an ambiguous questions, but I am looking to build myself a kind of end all be all electrostatic headphone. Price is not a huge issue, and I am well aware that the sound is not only going to depend on the material and design I use, but also the build quality that I put into the headphone itself. 
 
Assuming that the build quality will be perfect, does anyone know of a really kick but design with a fair amount of bass and a really warm sound signature?

if you want a warm sound signature, just pick a design you want and do not etch out the copper in the inactive area on the stators. This leaves the headphones with higher capacitance and warmer sound signature as you like it.

Wachara C.
post #1151 of 2424
Quote:
Originally Posted by miceblue View Post

I'm still fairly new when it comes to electrostatic headphones.
  1. Do the diaphragms excite air particles as opposed to moving them like typical diaphragms?
  2. How does a Jecklin Float sound? The diaphragms aren't angled are they? If not, wouldn't the planar "air wave" be misaligned with one's ear?

 

Jecklin Float headphones are kind of angled. When you put them on, there is some foam that kind of aligns the drivers (so to speak). 

post #1152 of 2424
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post


if you want a warm sound signature, just pick a design you want and do not etch out the copper in the inactive area on the stators. This leaves the headphones with higher capacitance and warmer sound signature as you like it.

Wachara C.

 

Huh, that is interesting. 

 

Do you have a favorite design yet? I see you have a lot more new designs since the last time I was poking around this thread. I am going to have all my parts milled out by a professional and therefore I do not need to do a practice headphone or anything like that, so if you could also recommend me the best quality parts available, I would also be appreciative. 

 

-----------------

 

On a separate note, I was looking through this forum, and I see a lot of people who seem to be having difficulty finding/making stax sockets. 

 

Forgive me if this is a stupid comment, but why is it important to have a stax socket? So long as you do not have other stax headphones, could you not use something like either 2 6.3mm cables or 2 3 pin xlr cables and simply combine the two bias pins inside the amp? 

 

It just seems like it would be easier than making your own socket.

post #1153 of 2424
Thread Starter 
I like my oval shape headphones. They have big soundstage and good dynamic. The JF style headphones aren't bad either.

As far as jack and socket, you certainly don't have to use the Stax type. However, it gives you a good flexibility if you ever want to try to use your headphones with a Stax amp or a pair Stax headphones with your DIY amp.
Edited by chinsettawong - 12/29/13 at 12:15am
post #1154 of 2424
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post

I like my oval shape headphones. They have big soundstage and good dynamic. The JF style headphones aren't bad either.


As far as jack and socket, you certainly don't have to use the Stax type. However, it gives you a good flexibility if you ever want to try to use your headphones with a Stax amp or a pair Stax headphones with your DIY amp.

Are these the same oval shaped HE90-like that you loaned to arnaud? I must admit I found the JF-styled to have a larger soundstage. Or have you made another oval-shaped headphones?

post #1155 of 2424
Thread Starter 

Hi Anakchan,

 

Yes, what I recommended was what you and Arnaud have tried.  Among all the headphones that I've made so far, these are still my favorite.

 

As for JF style headphones, with their big size drivers, there's no doubt that the sound stage is big.  If I were to make another pair, I would try to reduce the width of the active diaphragm just a little so that I'll be able use 0.5 mm PCB as spacer.  Otherwise, these headphones do seriously need a powerful amp to drive them properly.  

 

Happy New Year!

 

Wachara C.

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