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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 76

post #1126 of 2415

I've actually been working on a (hopefully improved) version of the Sigmas and some other stuff, but not an exact clone.  You might want to PM jaycalgary to see if he still has the exact dimensions of the Sigma cups as he cloned them in the past.  You can open up your SR-202s and take some measurements of the drivers to clone them and put them in the Sigma cups. 

post #1127 of 2415

Thank you for the answer, thank you for the tips, i have on my harddrive an image with sigma measurement (found here on headfi, probably is the same image you are referring too).

My idea is similar to yours: keeping the sigma concept but adapted to the manufacturing capabilities i can use: a 3d printer and a cnn pcb drilling milling machine.

So i am sure my headphones will be really different from a real sigma but i'd like to thinker about the "concept" the sigma is based on.

By the way, is the embroidery hoop method to stretch mylar working for someone or is better to use the bike tire method?

Thank you

post #1128 of 2415
Thread Starter 
Hi Federico,

You have a very good idea. I have been thinking of getting a 3D printet for quite a while now too. I'm sure that it's very good for printing the enclosure and headband parts.

As you might have known, I've made many different versions of headphones. I highly recommend my oval shape style to other versions. To me and many friends who have tried them, we like them a lot more than other versions. The next one I would recommend is JF style headphones. The size of driver does really make a big difference. A local friend actually prefers this one to his Stax SR009. smily_headphones1.gif

Anyway, the most important thing is to have fun making them. If you need any assistance, please do not hesitate to ask. We are always here to help.

Wachara C.
post #1129 of 2415

Hello Wachara,

 

3d printing is fun (but is even funnier to build 3d printers) building one is not difficult and if you have built a diy cnc building a 3d printer is similar.

 

I have given my prusa i3 (3d printer) to a friend because i prefer building new thing than use them (but i have a lifetime deal with my friend: i give you my printer you print for me when i need it;)) so i'll start experimenting with enclosures as soon i have some time to draw something on the cad.

 

Thank you for you designs and assistance, i'm here to learn because i am an esl newbie but i have various projects in mind for diy esl headphones, some are probably bad ideas but some could show potential (i hope).

 

The first esl i'll try to make is the oval one, then to work on the "PseudoSigma" concept.

 

I'm sure i will ask a lot of things.. thank you!

post #1130 of 2415
Thread Starter 
Hi Federico,

I'm actually very itching to make a 3d printer myself. The X,Y,and Z movement and control is no problem for me, but I do not understand how the extruder works and controlled yet. I'm sure it's a lot of fun making one. Please don't mind me to ask a few questions if I decide to make one in the future. biggrin.gif

As far as diaphragm stretching technic, I actually prefer the inner tyre stretcher. It's very easy to get a repeatable and even tension for your diaphragms. You just need to make sure not to stretch your diaphragm too much. It'll take you a few trials to get it right.

Have fun!

Wachara C.
post #1131 of 2415
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post

I'm actually very itching to make a 3d printer myself. The X,Y,and Z movement and control is no problem for me, but I do not understand how the extruder works and controlled yet. I'm sure it's a lot of fun making one. Please don't mind me to ask a few questions if I decide to make one in the future. biggrin.gif

 

Usually when people make their own they build the motion stages and structure, but buy the extruder module from makerbot or an equivalent company. 

post #1132 of 2415

dude_500 is right, some parts (electronics for motion control, extruders and the software) are usually standards.

The one i used for my printer are  an arduino connected to a ramps1.4 shield (the shield to control the steppers, a standard extruder from ebay and the firmware for the arduino was Marlin)

Everything is opensource in the world of diy 3d printer, reprap.org is a good starting point to have an idea about softwares, extruders and the electronics involved.

 

You can ask every question you want (i'm not an expert, my knowledge is limited) and i'll happily answer what i can.

 

Ok when the time to strech some mylar will come i'll ask my little cousin his bike for "repairs" :evil:

post #1133 of 2415

Back when I was looking at 3D printers, the "resolution" on parts didn't seem that good.  Have things changed considerably since?

post #1134 of 2415
Hm, I'll subscribe to this thread. I might try a D.I.Y. electrostatic headphone eventually, when I get the time.

As for 3D printing, how fine are you looking at? I think 3D printers have pretty good resolution nowadays, in the order of micrometers (100 micrometers for the MakerBot Replicator 2 3D printer and 300 micrometers for the Formlabs Form 1, or so they claim), but I don't know how long ago you looked at them and how "low resolution" they were back then.

Edited by miceblue - 12/9/13 at 3:21pm
post #1135 of 2415
Thread Starter 

I'll study more about 3D printer.  It seems like fun. :L3000:

 

The resolution of 100 micrometers is good enough for frames, headbands, and etc.  But it's not good enough for making precision parts such as spacers and stators.

 

Wachara C.

post #1136 of 2415

I was trying to insert the jpeg of my project for of the oval shape esl but i discovered that as a head-fi newbie i can't post images.

 

By the way do someone knows a source for 0,5mm fr4 in europe?

The only one i found is conrad.de that supplies that product

 

http://www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/523644/Bungard----Materiale-di-base-per-piastrine----120106Z33----LxPxA-160-x-100-x-05-mm

 

but that's photosensible (is the term right?) material, and i can't find anything else.

And what about mylar? I found a supplier on ebay but he sell's big rolls of 20m or more.

 

Do someone hd fortune finding mylar and pcb material in EU?

 

Thank you everyone

post #1137 of 2415

If you're milling it anyways, photosensitive doesn't matter as it's just a surface coating. You can clean or sand it off anyways if you want.

 

I think most of us buy strange thicknesses of FR4 from this ebay seller and it looks like shipping to Europe is possible http://www.ebay.com/itm/120802756087?var=420050924079&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#shpCntId

 

Be aware that the seller is exceptionally sketchy and often takes weeks to ship and has very poor communication (if you're lucky, about half the time it'll ship the next day!). But it's about the only place to get it I'm aware of.

 

 

As for mylar, you should go with the ebay seller in Taiwan. You'll use 20M and probably more if you really get into making headphones, lots of trial and error involved in making these drivers.

post #1138 of 2415

Because of the postage cost and difficulty of obtaining 0.5 mm PCB in Europe, I have been thinking about trying to use a sandwich made of 0.125 mm Lexan http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLEAR-LEXAN-FILM-POLYCARBONATE-PLASTIC-SHEETS-A4-SIZE-0-25MM-0-50MM-0-75MM-/200989753144?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2ecbec3f38 and 0.005 in (0.127 mm) brass sheet http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-S-Brass-Sheet-005-X4-X10-/281197572078?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4178ae6fee.

 

Still working on my phones, I've got the headpiece pretty much finished...

 

 

...still a ways to go, I don't get anything done a lot of days, but I'm still digging away at it. This will have a kevlar strap between the cup holders when I get to it. Don't want those threaded rods rubbing away on my bald head.

 

w

post #1139 of 2415

Hi Federico

2micron Mylar, 5 Metres x 300 mm wide  at: http://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/

See Index:  Indoor --> Lighweight covering materials--> Mylar covering material foil.

Also available 1 (!!!) and 5 micron

Works fine!

About 10 £ with P&P from UK to Italy

post #1140 of 2415

It looks good, but can look perfect!

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