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My DIY electrostatic headphones - Page 71

post #1051 of 2617
Thread Starter 

Before going to the annual Thai DIY Audio meeting, I had to cover up the back side of the phones so that people would not stick their fingers inside and get a shock.  I looked around the house and finally decided to use my wife's stocking.  tongue_smile.gif  I actually heard a few people really like to use the stocking as a damping cloth on their ESL.



I took with me the new phones, the oval shape ones, and KGSSHV to the meeting.  Many people had never heard of electrostatic headphones before and were very interested to come and try my phones. 







Guess what?  About eight out of ten people who tried the phones like the sound of the new ones better.  However, they all complained that they looked very ugly.  I had to show them how JF looked and they all laughed.


Let me show you how crazy Thai DIYers can be.  We have a WE212 SE amp at the meeting.  The tubes are huge.  blink.gif





The 845 tubes in front of WE212 look so small in comparison. 


Wachara C.

post #1052 of 2617
That's commitment! The person who brought the speaker rig with the huge tubes amp deserve a couple of beers from all the attendees...

Glad to hear your latest creation was well received wachara, makes me even more curious. I think it will be difficult to get you to part with it for a while smily_headphones1.gif.

I made some progress here and received microphones that have good potential. Probably in a few weeks time I will be ready to measure your cans. The open baffle seems to be quite close to the ears from the pics above (like resting on the ear). Is that right? That may cause additional challenge to measure these...
post #1053 of 2617

The Floats are open baffle so measuring them will be rather difficult. 


Those WE212's are nuts.  Love the pic with the amp on one side and tinkering with it turned on.  Only one hand though... redface.gif

post #1054 of 2617
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

The Floats are open baffle so measuring them will be rather difficult. 


For a while, I had some really tiny mics that fit right inside the concha. They would have been perfect for this expect the SNR and matching was plain terrible so I returned them. The current ones might indeed present some challenge.

post #1055 of 2617

I found some 5mm green perspex in my scrap bin, so I started thinking I could build up some cups out of hoops. Now it's a bit late to run the CNC because of the noise, so the last few are going to have to wait until tomorrow.



Anyway, to keep from getting bored I did some CAD... these are 5 stacked rings.



I figure I can make a stretcher for the wire mesh out of 2 concentric hoops, just like embroidery rings.


I'm having a lot of difficulty turning gerber files into isolation milling gcode. Does anybody know of a free program that does gerber2gcode reliably? There are a few out there, but I'm getting tired of trying them out only to discover they don't really work.



post #1056 of 2617

LineGrinder is free but seems picky about the gerbers and settings. only free one I could get to work so far.

also the Gcode is not optimized and caused a lot of stops and starts...(slow)

which can be fixed with Opti   http://pcbgcode.org/read.php?6,5



cambam works well for me..  the trial is limited to 40 starts, which if left running....

Plenty to see if you want to spend $150 on..

Edited by Congo5 - 9/7/13 at 8:09pm
post #1057 of 2617

I figured out what the problem with engraving the PCBs is, my demo version of Mach3 is refusing >500 lines. I thought the license I was given was good. Time to move to LinuxCNC, I think.


Making some progress with the cups. Need to trim the bolts...



Looking at it now, I'm a bit concerned that the 'ears' might break, it occurred to me that I can make this in 3 main parts, the centre piece from aluminium, the outer rings wood, say mahogany.


I've ordered up some alu sheet.



post #1058 of 2617
Thread Starter 
That's a nice looking cup. smily_headphones1.gif

I'm glad you've found the real problem with your g-code. I only use Linux-CNC, and it's perfect for me. You should try it. smily_headphones1.gif
post #1059 of 2617

I downloaded LinuxCNC. Now I need a second hard disk.


A trial fit of stators:-



Aluminium plate came today, but I blew up my PWM controller for the CNC spindle, so waiting for IRF740 FET.



post #1060 of 2617
Thread Starter 

That looks nice. :tongue_smile: 


By the way, what hole diameter are you using on your stators?  The holes seem pretty big.


Wachara C.

post #1061 of 2617

Those are 3.175mm, 1/8 inch, the size of my general milling bits. The overall outside diameter of the cups is 100 mm, the ring thickness is 7mm, with an additional 7mm for the inner mounting ring. That makes the stators 82mm dia. with 2mm clearance to the cups. I think overall the cups could be a bit bigger, but I had to start somewhere, 100mm is the number I picked...


Got LinuxCNC loaded onto a disk, it was hell's own job to get it to see my network storage disk, but eventually I got it to work with FTP.



Edited by wakibaki - 9/16/13 at 8:02am
post #1062 of 2617

The shop I work in got a big nice CNC mill, so I figured I'd take DIY stators to a new level. Just finished the first stator for my upcoming Orpheus009 headphones. Takes more than 4 hours to make a stator, but they are beautiful! Made of stainless that is 1.2mm thick pocketed to 0.4mm. Overall transparency is approximately 50%. 



post #1063 of 2617
Thread Starter 

Hi Dude_500,

The stator looks really nice.  :beerchug:


What is the dimension of your stator?  How will you insulate it?


Keep us posted of your progress.  :L3000:


Wachara C.

post #1064 of 2617

The active area is 84mm x 122mm. Much larger than any other headphones I've made. 


The stators are insulated and held with FR4 frames, and then just join the typical sandwich. This also helps eliminate unnecessary capacitance. I'm using 0.8mm diaphragm spacers instead of 0.5mm since the diaphragm is so big.


post #1065 of 2617
Thread Starter 

That's a nice and big active area.  I still don't understand how you will insulate your stator.  Will you powder coat it or will you spray paint it with some plastic paints?


The spacer thickness of 0.8 mm is too much, IMO.  If  I were you, I would try 0.6 mm or 0.7 mm.  You'll also need to increase your bias voltage higher. 


Let us know how it goes.


Good luck.


Wachara C.

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