Definitely need to move your jacks to the edge of the board. Also, you have a lot of wasted space towards the top. That's not exactly a problem, but why waste space when you're paying for it? You also may want to consider how you place resistors around the opamp - some of the feedback loops look a little long.
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- tamu
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So I changed the opamp vg to the simple but elegant tle2426. plus it is so much easier when you have 2 sides. anyway I listened to your advices and tried to keep everythg as close as possible. pot and switch can stay off board for now. I liked the compactness of this one. looks nice and small. I want to try single sided too..
will do that now and see how it goes.
ah just realised, I didnt put the info on the in, out and dc
- tamu
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So I keep trying for one sided board version with autorouting and it doesnt turn out much different than the first ones.. maybe I should seperate the psu from amp board and connect it with jumpers (as like in soha II board).
also does it really matter to have a huge ground around the others? or should I just have the traces?
maybe one of the downsides could be the waste of copper on the board?
- Spacehead
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R3P R4P need to be lower or your virtual ground will waste some power. I wouldn't use larger than 47 ohm load sharing resistors. R1P and R2P would better be about 200K , draws less current. Increase C1A to 1 UF. That is for JFETs op amps only.

So I started learning how to use eagle. It was a bit hard first but then all became very easy.
Ive done some cmoy designs so far. here is the last one I made. I would like to know what you guys think and is there anything that I should be improving?
thanks for the inputs guys!
- Avro_Arrow
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Try doing it without the autorouter. This is a simple design
and you should be able to route it "by hand". The autorouter
is sometime more of a pain in the butt than helpful.
I also notice that your power supply cap footprint is too small.
It should be 8 to 10 mm. If you want to use a cap that is tall,
don't be afraid to lay it "on its side" like an axial cap.
You do not need to run the power traces "through" the TLE2426.
You can treat it as a separate element and just run power to
it and connect it's output to the ground plain.
You can connect components directly to the ground plain
by using "thermal relief" pads.
Good luck and keep trying!
- tamu
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Thanks but I ditched the opamp based ground for now. but the r1p and 2p seems like a good idea (Im not an expert).. I got the ground schematic from tangents site.
and I just checked his circuit, it seems like somehow I put them as 2k but his one shows 220k..
- tamu
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done! as you said avro autorouting is useless..
how is it looking now?
Edited by tamu - 6/16/10 at 2:27pm
- Avro_Arrow
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That looks much better!
Don't be shy to use nice, wide traces.
Remember to set "Miter" the same width
as your trace.
- tamu
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thats another thing I was wondering; how narrow could I have the traces when making my own pcbs? (edit: while developing the pcbs)
and is there a point in having the huge ground plate? is there be any benefits?
thanks to you all. I learned a great deal today
Edited by tamu - 6/16/10 at 2:40pm
- Avro_Arrow
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At low frequency, like we use in audio, the trace size is
dependent on the load it is expected to carry. Having
a larger trace than is needed just means less resistance.
The ground plain is used for noise reduction, it act to
capture noise to ground. Ground plains are also used
for heat sinks by some components like SMD voltage
regulators.
If you get into designing higher frequency boards like
RF or computer stuff then trace width and spacing
can be critical.
- tamu
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himm. thanks for the help
Im out for tonite.
good night!
the series R inside the op amp feedback loops is always questionable - yes they can be useful current limiters but you need to justify how much you're limiting the current and they can cause oscillation with C load - like cable capacitance
the 1K in the active gnd buffer are way too big
when correctly using the series R it is good to have a local feedback C from op amp output to -in, and a feedback R from the output - the feedback R,C values ideally need to be coordinated with the expected C load to insure stability
don't be afraid of jumpers - especially if you're doing a single sided board - "old school" pcb draftsmen took pride in minimal jumpers, vias, feedthrus - but I say do what's necessary to get good electrical performance - sometimes more jumpers are better than squeezing traces between pins and looping around other parts
- tamu
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jcx thanks for the advice. and I was thinking I can use a jumper wire on the r7a and 8a. just put them there incase they were needed...
I think Im going to post a thread in trade forums to see if anyone could make a pcb for me to try. Im moving soon and I dont want to buy the chemicals. I read in insturctables that I can use some drain cleaners -if the contents are right-. maybe Ill give that a try.
I made the traces wider as Avro said. its still a good fit on the board.
I really like playing with eagle but, I guess, it wont be an actual diy until I manage to make my pcbs too.
oh and Im waiting for grubdac kits to come out to try some smd soldering. Maybe I can try to make another cmoy with smd parts too.? or would it be an overkill?
- Spacehead
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High speed op amps benefit greatly from all SMD build.
Also input impedances difference should be close to 0 , so that you can use bipolar input op amps.
Then you could use for example AD8397 and you'd get stronger cmoy.
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