HE-6 Loaner Program - Page 30

Any transducer can handle a 100 wpc amp - as long as you are judicious about the use of the volume control

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylab 

Any transducer can handle a 100 wpc amp - as long as you are judicious about the use of the volume control

All except the Maggies as I can go to full volume and not clip or blow a fuse. I wouldn't do that with the HE6 and I think there are other speakers I wouldn't try that with  but with the Maggies its another story IMO

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank I 

All except the Maggies as I can go to full volume and not clip or blow a fuse. I wouldn't do that with the HE6 and I think there are other speakers I wouldn't try that with  but with the Maggies its another story IMO

Don't do that with any of their True Ribbon Tweeter equipped speakers (Currently 3.6 and 20.1), the True Ribbon Tweeters are much more fragile than the Quasi-Ribbon that were used on some lower models.

When an amp is putting out clean (Unclipped) full bandwidth music signals over 95% of the signal is comprised of Bass and Mid-range spectra. So driving a clean 100 watts to the speaker is really only driving 5+- watts (Depends on crossover points). Whereas once an amp goes into clipping the result is very frequently HF distortion which can often be an appreciable % of the signal.

This is why when the Tweeters have been fried it is usually an indication of Clipping, or in essence too small of an amplifier. If the Woofer is fried it usually means that it was just plain played too loudly.

It's difficult to fry Maggie Woofer/Mid-range panels, but I have seen it done
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylab 

Definitely will compare to LCD-2 and HE-5LE.

Most of us already know the answer to that one, LCD-2 vs HE-6 please
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seamaster 

Most of us already know the answer to that one, LCD-2 vs HE-6 please
 

I did offer a bit of a comparison before.  The HE-6 has more treble presence than the LCD-2, less bass weight, and a slightly drier midrange.  In and of itself, the HE-6 sounds incredibly open, transparent, and while there is a little more treble energy than I think is strictly neutral, the treble of the HE-6 is so good it's never bothersome.

The LCD-2, on the other hand, is also unbelievably natural sounding, also highly transparent, but has notably less treble energy.  I actually slightly prefer the spectral balance of the LCD-2, but I nonetheless found the HE-6 to be a world-class performer that I found myself not wanting to be without.  Both have that "rightness" that I think is unique to planar drivers. 

If you could buy only one, I would base it on your preference for how you like your treble.  If you prefer lots of treble energy, get the HE-6.  If you prefer a little more relaxed top end, get the LCD-2. 

That is of course assuming you can amp the HE-6 appropriately.

I wonder if detail retrieval and speed of the HE-6 is on the same league as the O2s (or the LCD-2).  With the drivers being gold plated (?) it seems ike a lot heavier and harder to drive of a material than the super thin membrane of an O2.

I thought detail retrieval on the HE-6 was as good as I have ever heard.  Certainly in the league of the LCD-2 (I've only heard the O2 as meets).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yikes 

 

Don't do that with any of their True Ribbon Tweeter equipped speakers (Currently 3.6 and 20.1), the True Ribbon Tweeters are much more fragile than the Quasi-Ribbon that were used on some lower models.

 

When an amp is putting out clean (Unclipped) full bandwidth music signals over 95% of the signal is comprised of Bass and Mid-range spectra. So driving a clean 100 watts to the speaker is really only driving 5+- watts (Depends on crossover points). Whereas once an amp goes into clipping the result is very frequently HF distortion which can often be an appreciable % of the signal.

 

This is why when the Tweeters have been fried it is usually an indication of Clipping, or in essence too small of an amplifier. If the Woofer is fried it usually means that it was just plain played too loudly.

 

It's difficult to fry Maggie Woofer/Mid-range panels, but I have seen it done
 

I do not listen at loud levels. Most times my amp never gets to 9. I have tried it to see how far I could push both the amp and the speakers. I have playing the game for 31 years and have never damaged any of my stuff even when I had a 30K system. I know the problems with playing stuff beyond its limits plus my wife would throw me out of the house

Just to clarify, the HE-6's have a nominal impedance of 70 ohms, correct?

I have one question, are there significant differences in amp requests between HE-6 or LCD-2? Thanks for info.

If you mean amp requirements, then yes, the HE-6 requires more power to drive them. The LCD-2 will benefit from some additional power as well but will sound good with less power than the HE-6.

Grokit – could be possible to present concrete technical specifications (amp requirements) or, for these headphones too – for comparing. Thanks.

I would just go to the manufacturer websites for specifications. My conclusions are drawn from user feedback in this and other threads, and my own experience with the LCD-2. 

A question: If I didn't really like the overall sound signature of the HE-5, is there any chance I will like the HE-6?

Quote:

Originally Posted by baka1969 
 

"I'm also not saying that they sound very different from each other either. What I think I'm saying is, at this level, we're all chasing the last few percentage points towards the elusive perfection."

i like that good work!

"I think the HD800 is among the most comfortable headphones I've owned"

had i known this i would have tried the sennheiser which i initially wrote off for their size and bulk,,, foolish me,,  i have learned with a few phones now that it dosent matter how good they sound if they are awkward and uncomfortable then no thank  you.     i would have trouble believing they are more comfortable then d 7000,

thanks for your input which is very much appreciated