New member here new to HQ portable Audio but not new to HQ audio hello everyone

Hi my name is Joe. I'm 27 years old. I've been into performance car audio since i was 15. I am addicted to car audio and spend way too much on it. After many cars and many systems I am fully satisfied. I have a 2008 Chrysler 300 with an alpine f1 status system with JL Audio Bass.

Head unit: DVI -9990: .008% THD S/N 115dB or greater 5hz-20khz cd  5hz-40khz dvd audio

High Resolution D/A converter DAI-C990: 8 sets burr brown k grade sine magnitude 96khz/24bit dacs uses a firewire digital connection to carry the signal from the head unit to the dac

MRV-F900 4 channel Amp: 200 x 4 @ .08%THD 105dB S/n cross over set at highpass cross over set at 120 hz

2x pairs total 4 sets SPX-Z18T: 3 way components 7" mid bass  4" midrange 1.25" tweeter, 35hz - 60khz, 50w rms 200w peak, the crossovers allow for phase difference and extremely accurate time correction i have the mid bass set 120hz - 900hz midrange 900hz-4khz high 4khz+

2x JL Audio 1000/1v2 class D 1000w rms mono amps: 24dB slope crossover @ 120Hz low pass

2X JL Audio 13.5" W7 subs in seperate sealed boxes: 1500 watt rms each

Deep Cycle yellow top optima battery and aftermarket 220 amp alternator.

Dynamat material all over the panels of the car to control rattle.

I'm not even gonna say how much money I put into this car lets just say its creepin up on the actual price of the car. Music sounds amazing in my car and even my freinds home systems just cant match my car. I go to concerts and when its over i'll pop in a cd of the same artist what I just heard live and my car system sounds 1000x cleaner clearer and just way more enjoyable. When I was seeing how hard my subs could hit I actually made the seal from the rear window start leaking water it ripped the water tight connection apart. Obviously I don;t listen to it that loud it throws off the flatness of the frequency response but its fun to crank the bass once in awhile and set off car alarms and what not. I dont know anything about home audio or portable player audio my passion is car audio but I am interested in having a nice portable system that will satisfy me the way my car does (though i doubt anything will match it toally) as I'm back in school now and have lots of time inbetween classes on campus and my ipod is seeing alot more action. I've already purchased westone 3 LE IEM's after a lot of research. Researching for IEM's is what made me stumble onto this site. I know there is better but school has drained my finances so I had to settle for those. I have pre ordered a pico slim and can't wait for that to come in.

Just a little introduction of who I am and what I'm about. If anyone needs advice on car audio I've listened to many speakers and many amps and I know alot. After I get my pico slim I think my portable set up will be complete unless there is anything else I should add. Hope to learns lots here thanks for readin.

earth, I got hit by a K mart semi truck in a little grand am. Luckily only had some broken ribs and a seperated shoulder and cuts and bruises. They paid for my hospital bills and wrote me a 35,000 dollar check to settle plus i got lotsa morphine in the hospital and oxycodone to take home. So i bought a brand new chrysler 300 and a bad ass audio system. Thats how i afforded it. I am a poor pre pharmacy college student living off pell grant and federal stafford loans now maybe could of used the money other ways but you know us guys have to have our toys.

Red if you are ever in ohio you can come listen to my system. I doubt you will be able to say anything bad about the quality. The dynamat around the whole car seals out road and engine noise so well and deadens all vibrations. Those 2 things are the main things that ruin car audio and I have them under control. The fullness and seperation and accuracy are stunning. It's everything you would expect from a five figure setup. Nothing more enjoyable then drivin around in a nice large comfortable luxury car with v8 power under the hood and incredible sound in your ears.

the females love it too ;)

Oh yeah when I bought the chrysler 300 I did it mafia style it was awesome. I walked in with a breifcase filled with money and was like yea ill take that black one with the v8. They gave me a nice discount since i paid all of it upfront in cash and it was a test drive model. It was a 30,000 dollar loaded chrysler 300 and i got it for 22 grand it had 1200 miles on it.

So I had suspicians my battery wasn't able to fully supply all the power quick enough during high output bass bursts cause my lights would dim slightly. I had it tested and my sub's actually are not getting peak performance when alot of power is required. It's not that the battery is too small or the alternator is too small its that it cant discharge the amount of power i need fast enough. The optima yellow top deep cycle battery outputs a higher voltage then standard car batteries is larger and holds more electrical energy. They can handle a 3500 watt RMS system and all the cars electrical requirements according to the car audio specialist. The first yellowtop will support the cars eletrical + 3500 watts rms of audio and each additional will support 5000 watts rms each. I only have 2500 watts rms so 1 battery is enough it's just the 2 1000 watt rms amps for the subs can drain alot of energy in a short amount of time and batteries dont discharge fast enough. The alternator I have is 220 amp and can easily support 2 yellowtops but I only have 1 as the stock 120 amp was just too weak and was working too hard. 220 amp is the biggest size I can get without needing extreme cooling as the higher you go the heat increases exponentially.

He said I only needed a 5 Farad cap as they store power designed for 2500 watt rms systems but i went with a 10 farad cap so there would be without a doubt always the exact amount of power needed at all times. I got it for 200 dollars.

Tsumani's HCAP-10 10-farad capacitor is suitable for systems totalling up to 5,000 watts RMS. This hybrid capacitor uses the latest battery technology to store more energy per cubic inch than a standard cap, and this reserve power gets delivered instantly to your amps whenever they need it. An LCD readout shows how much voltage is pumping through your system.

I also upgraded my ground wires from 8 AWG to 4 AWG on the sub amps left the 4 channel at 8 AWG. Power wires are still 4 AWG to the 4 channel but the sub amps got upgraded to 2 AWG.

First thing I noticed after installing. Lights do not dim at all regardless of the volume. I can tell the power in my car is much more stable. I can feel the bass go deeper. The lowest frequencies sound much more spacious i think the limited power was cutting off the very low 20-30hz frequency range or lessening its output. The lows actually in general became louder and cleaner. The amps feel like they are running cooler as well I think they were working harder for some reason struggling for the right amount of power. I actually had to turn the gain down slightly to equalize the output with the rest of the system. Overall the 200 dollars was worth it just to get the lights to stop dimming. The fact the low end of the bass became more spacious more controlled and cleaner overall was an unexpected bonus. They sounded so good already but giving the amps a constant and clean 14.4V has made it perform much better. I thought it would get better but not this much better. Making sure amps have a quality steady power supply is very very important.

Awww my first post. Yes I'm shamelessly bumping it. I miss my Chrysler 300 :(