Happy Camper
Headphoneus Supremus
I've been converted to this as well. Nice balance.For me. I put the stock Denon pads on everything they fit. Just sounds right to me..
I've been converted to this as well. Nice balance.For me. I put the stock Denon pads on everything they fit. Just sounds right to me..
I've only played with Tone Control on vintage stuff. Loudness button on my Kenwood Ka-9100 for example, turns the He-6 into a Lcd-2 with more clarity. Bass boost is slightly interesting too, never tried the treble knob though =p. There's also high pass filter and other intriguing stuff - lots of knobs to turn!
Why not stick with a high quality software EQ however?
Does tubes count as hardware EQ?
Been out of the loop for a few days and the HE-6 thread has some great conversation going on! DG - Welcome to the club!
I currently have several DIY projects going on, and should be finished by the end of October. Just wait 'till you guys and gals see what I'm cooking up lol. I have mentioned earlier that I'm building a First Watt F5 dedicated to the HE-6 and my Pre will be a DIY Lightspeed Attenuator for the whole system. I also have a high end tube phono pre in the works called the Cornet2, maxxed out BH Crack + Speedball, and the really cool part... some DIY Back-loaded horns with super tweeters! Then to top it all off, some DIY Goertz cable for the speakers. The fullrange driver will be the Fostex FE206En with T90a super tweeters
High quality EQ's? We talking parametric EQ's like JRiver and Foobar plugins? I always assumed that hardware EQ adjustments would sound more... errmm... natural than software EQ. That, and I like pushing things.
I currently have several DIY projects going on, and should be finished by the end of October. Just wait 'till you guys and gals see what I'm cooking up lol. I have mentioned earlier that I'm building a First Watt F5 dedicated to the HE-6 and my Pre will be a DIY Lightspeed Attenuator for the whole system. I also have a high end tube phono pre in the works called the Cornet2, maxxed out BH Crack + Speedball, and the really cool part... some DIY Back-loaded horns with super tweeters! Then to top it all off, someDIY Goertz cable for the speakers. The fullrange driver will be the Fostex FE206En with T90a super tweeters
You son of a ...........
On a serious note: what is that avant-garde looking table? And the CI on the cable is roughly 4 ohm?!! That is pure witchcraft. Believe me I'm a wizard.
Uhh no - the guys at sound science will violently object to that. To be fair I think I'll fail every blind test between hardware EQ and says a good EQ like Izotope or Electri-Q.
Interesting cable there. Must admit I've been wanting to try ribbon/flat wire interconnect for ages
The great thing for me is, I recently purchase a vintage tube receiver(fully restored fisher 500c) that sounds really close to what I remember from the vsi60 paring. The one exception is tonal wise, the 500c doesn't sound like a tube amp at all. It's dead neutral, but it does have all of the other traits associated with high end tube amps such as....holographic imaging, organic mids, and realism. But there was some tube warmth with the vsi60(not a bad thing though imo) For those who don't know about the 500c, it was a direct competitor to the famous mcintosh mc275, and they both retailed for the same price back in the 60s and sonically on the same level.
The difference is, fisher basically went belly up, and the mcintosh brand stayed strong which is why a completely restored 500c can be had for around 1000.00 and just a stock mc275 can go for several thousands on ebay.
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Yes, i only listened to the vsi60 pairing which is I also posted about one of my my current amps(fisher 500c) giving me everything I heard out of the vsi60. The only noticeable difference between the two is the vsi60 is a little warm while the fisher 500c is completely neutral with all of the other sound characteristics the vsi60 have. As for resistors, they are only needed for transformer coupled tube amps, and 10ohm is what you would use if using 8ohm speaker taps. Also make sure they are non inductive as well. This is to protect the output transformers and give them the load they need to see. Otherwise you may fry them.