I agree, just cross your fingers nobody turns it up 
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HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone - Page 447
post #6691 of 879710/3/12 at 3:53pmGear mentioned in this thread:
post #6692 of 879710/3/12 at 3:59pm- preproman
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Awww Hell - Now I'm paranoid.
post #6693 of 879710/3/12 at 4:00pm- musicman59
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post #6694 of 879710/3/12 at 5:24pm- singh
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you will see. They are great !!
how much did you pay for them? from ?
Edited by singh - 10/3/12 at 5:25pmpost #6695 of 879710/3/12 at 5:42pm- sphinxvc
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PM'd.
post #6696 of 879710/4/12 at 6:39am- IEMCrazy
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Quote:Originally Posted by musicman59
It helps for both. it has resistors in parallel and in series. The issue is that a 100 wwtas/ch amp will provide 16 watts/ch to the HE-6 so you could run the risk of blowing them.
Read here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/493214/hifiman-he-6-planar-magnetic-headphone/2010
I personally would not do that. 200 watts is to much IMO. Here is the adaptor box:
http://hifiman.us/Products/?pid=104
With 50 watts/ch class A I don't go over 9 O'Clock in the volume know of my pre-amp becuase it is already too loud.
Interesting discussion right in line with a few PMs I have going. Right now I'm using a 45wpc integrated, but I've been considering a 140wpc amp...not because I need the current, but because I'd like to be able to used balanced inputs to an amp, and I'd like to bypass the preamp since I can use the Woo DAC's digital attenuation (clean, 32-bit) and avoid the whole preamp stage all together.
Do you know what the output voltage is on your preamp? Because in my case the max I'd be sending in would be the 4.4v "balanced line level" out of the DAC...no voltage gain at all, so technically in that setup, the max input voltage would be probably 8:00 or 9:00 on the dial of the average balanced preamp. Also, not class-A
Doubt that matters in this context though.post #6697 of 879710/4/12 at 8:23am- Happy Camper
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Unless you short an amp input, I doubt you are going to hurt that driver. You can drive it into distortion but why? As long as you can control the amp through an attenuation of the signal in, it's not going to hurt the headphone. Some have used these headphones as mini speakers with no problem to the driver. Not suggesting we see where the limits are, but these headphones seem pretty solid amp wise. If the high power were a problem, the background noise would be very noticeable between songs. I get dead quiet with no signal.
As far as the extra power potentially being applied to the driver by a careless listener, put two switches on either side of the room and run the signal through both in series. That way it takes two people to turn it on and you can be the master switch controller.
I fail to see why there is such a reluctance to the idea. We are either daredevil fools or precaution police. People have reported using 200w amps with no problems. I've been using these 125w amps for two years. The numbers don't tell the whole story.
Edited by Happy Camper - 10/4/12 at 8:42ampost #6698 of 879710/4/12 at 11:09am- musicman59
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Quote:Originally Posted by Happy Camper
Unless you short an amp input, I doubt you are going to hurt that driver. You can drive it into distortion but why? As long as you can control the amp through an attenuation of the signal in, it's not going to hurt the headphone. Some have used these headphones as mini speakers with no problem to the driver. Not suggesting we see where the limits are, but these headphones seem pretty solid amp wise. If the high power were a problem, the background noise would be very noticeable between songs. I get dead quiet with no signal.
As far as the extra power potentially being applied to the driver by a careless listener, put two switches on either side of the room and run the signal through both in series. That way it takes two people to turn it on and you can be the master switch controller.
I fail to see why there is such a reluctance to the idea. We are either daredevil fools or precaution police. People have reported using 200w amps with no problems. I've been using these 125w amps for two years. The numbers don't tell the whole story.I am not sayig you can not do it. I am just saying that I read fang did not recommend it that's all. You can do whatever you want. What matters is what you are comfortable with.
Quote:Originally Posted by IEMCrazy
Interesting discussion right in line with a few PMs I have going. Right now I'm using a 45wpc integrated, but I've been considering a 140wpc amp...not because I need the current, but because I'd like to be able to used balanced inputs to an amp, and I'd like to bypass the preamp since I can use the Woo DAC's digital attenuation (clean, 32-bit) and avoid the whole preamp stage all together.
Do you know what the output voltage is on your preamp? Because in my case the max I'd be sending in would be the 4.4v "balanced line level" out of the DAC...no voltage gain at all, so technically in that setup, the max input voltage would be probably 8:00 or 9:00 on the dial of the average balanced preamp. Also, not class-A
Doubt that matters in this context though.I don't know. The user manual does not specify it. I wil have to research it.
post #6699 of 879710/4/12 at 12:25pm- IEMCrazy
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Quote:What did Fang recommend? (from all accounts the HE-Adapter harms SQ, so it seems there's no point buying an expensive amp and adapting it versus just using a cheap amp :) )
Obviously "turning the volume up too high is damaging"....but honestly, is there a case where it's not? Even the EF6...maybe you won't blow the drivers but you'll blow your ears long before then. I'm still a little hesitant of running the 140w amp...but tracking down a 40-50w amp with balanced input is a difficult task, especially if one is avoiding the $2k+ price range!

It's not urgent as the unbalanced integrated I'm running does sound really good...45wpc so much more "safe"....but on the other hand I feel kind of silly running unbalanced outs out of my nicely balanced DAC and using two attenuators...the one on the DAC and the knob on the integrated/pre. Trouble is getting precise control out of the one on the integrated is painful compared to the lovely digital on the DAC. And that 140w amp would fit the bill so wonderfully were it not for the fact that it has all that excess power. A lot depends on the pre voltage.
post #6700 of 879710/4/12 at 12:56pm- preproman
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^^^^^How do you feel about Class D amps?^^^^^
http://www.reddragonaudio.com/products/m-500-monoblocks/
post #6701 of 879710/4/12 at 2:09pm- musicman59
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Quote:Originally Posted by IEMCrazy
What did Fang recommend? (from all accounts the HE-Adapter harms SQ, so it seems there's no point buying an expensive amp and adapting it versus just using a cheap amp :) )
Obviously "turning the volume up too high is damaging"....but honestly, is there a case where it's not? Even the EF6...maybe you won't blow the drivers but you'll blow your ears long before then. I'm still a little hesitant of running the 140w amp...but tracking down a 40-50w amp with balanced input is a difficult task, especially if one is avoiding the $2k+ price range!

It's not urgent as the unbalanced integrated I'm running does sound really good...45wpc so much more "safe"....but on the other hand I feel kind of silly running unbalanced outs out of my nicely balanced DAC and using two attenuators...the one on the DAC and the knob on the integrated/pre. Trouble is getting precise control out of the one on the integrated is painful compared to the lovely digital on the DAC. And that 140w amp would fit the bill so wonderfully were it not for the fact that it has all that excess power. A lot depends on the pre voltage.
He recommended to use the adapter for amplifiers with more than I think 70 watts.
My Threshold is just 50 watts/ch class A with balanced and single ended inputs and you can find it in good condition for about $1,000.
I am running balanced out of my PWD MkII (volume at 100) to my Threshold T2 preamp. The preamp had two balanced outputs so one is feeding my Threhsold S550e for my speakers andthe other the T50 for the HE-6. Everything works perfect and sound great.
The the single ended output of the PWD MKII is feeding my Woo WA5-LE.
post #6702 of 879710/4/12 at 3:01pm- hawkhead
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OK it's bit more - 100W but the Primare A30.1./ i30 is dual mono balanced I paid $800 for my 30.1 (used)
The volume goes up to 79 - I listen at 45-50
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Edited by hawkhead - 10/4/12 at 3:03pmpost #6703 of 879710/5/12 at 2:13am- grokit
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Quote:Quote:Quote:Originally Posted by Skylab
Yeah that was my picture, and that was my first taste of the original HE-6, at CanJam. There were actually two versions Fang had at that show. I couldn't believe he was driving them with a Threshold. What a beast! It's actually all Fang's fault that a bunch of us got into driving the HE-6 with powerful vintage amps. The Threshold is early 80's, IIRC.post #6704 of 879710/5/12 at 5:25am- Dr. Roberts
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I'm quite sure my question has been discussed ad infinitum but this is a huge thread and difficult, even using the search engine, to locate the info I need. Therefore I am requesting advice from the resident experts as how best for me to drive a pair of HE-6's from a power amp.
The simplest way would be to use the adaptor but according to technical support at HiFiMAN, only amps rated at over 70 watts per channel are recommended. My Leben CS-600 is rated at 32 watts p.c. as currently configured and my BAT at 55.
Can anyone inform me as to how to run a pair of HE-6's directly from the speaker taps in a simple fashion. In other words, in a way that would not require any special skills. You know, in an idiot-proof fashion.
Thanks for any and all technical assistance.
post #6705 of 879710/5/12 at 5:31am- dleblanc343
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Quote:Just solder speaker wire to hifiman connectors and plug them in your speaker taps L+ L- and R+ R-. You can add banana plugs if you want it to be a bit "cleaner". Or you can get the hifiman adapter, but I've heard it degrades the sound(?)
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