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HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone - Page 130

post #1936 of 14376

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by K3cT View Post
 
I seriously wonder what is causing the sibilance as it's the last thing that I would associate with the HE6. Actually, that particular line describes the HD800 pretty well. Are you sure you don't have them mixed up? evil_smiley.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiertijai View Post

I agee K3cT that I did not find any sibilance with the HE6 at all, in comparison to the HD800 sometimes

with some music you may have that.  So I think I prefer the treble of HE6 more than HD800 although HD800

may sound more airy.  However as I mentioned in my previous post that the treble that I enjoyed the most

are from the HE6 and R10.  I need skylab input on this too as he recently owned the R10.  I will compare

the treble of Edition 10 soon.


Quote:
Originally Posted by moodyrn View Post

His thoughts are so different from everybody else, especially when it comes to the treble. It almost makes me wonder if there's some sort of defect. I used my motu 828 to burn them in at night. It doesn't come anywhere close to driving them, but even on that the treble is still pretty smooth and no where near sibilant.

 

 

He is driving the HE-6 with an amp rated at one watt, 'nuff said IMO.


Edited by grokit - 12/15/10 at 8:28pm
post #1937 of 14376

I was after what amp it was.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wuwhere View Post

The one on top looks like a DAC with a balanced out into an integrated amp with a balanced input. The HE6 is connected to the integrated amp's speaker output through banana plugs. Nice setup.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tisb0b View Post

So what is 'this'?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkhead View Post

I just plugged the HE6 into this puppy:

 

On a scale of 1-10 where the Woo WA6SE was 1, the Exposure XXV - 7 then this ranks 10 for sound quality

 

The bass is deeper again with even more control and the amp exhibits amazing control


 

 
post #1938 of 14376


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shahrose View Post

I think using the Realiser would confound proper soundstage impressions. Try the headphones without processing.

You're also using a different amp and cables than me so it's entirely possible that the HE-6 sound different in your setup.

 

Edit: I don't want to say too much more right now, because there's a chance these will change with burn-in, or I might just notice new things with time.

Sorry but what I am finding is that the HE6 and the SVS Realiser is a better match than the HD-800s for everything including sound-stage.

Why I say this is because when you try and balance the HD-800s for a 7.1 sound-stage you really can't. However you can balance the HE6s for a 7.1/5.1/2.0 or THX using a db meter.

So my point is that the HE6 has a more accurate sound-stage with the Realiser and therefore a greater illusion of a being there impression.
 

post #1939 of 14376


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by grokit View Post


He is driving the HE-6 with an amp rated at one watt, 'nuff said IMO.

 


Take it easy...read my updated impressions below.


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shahrose View Post

Just got them. Initial impressions (may change after some time):

*The HD800s I used were silver-recabled.

Good:
-Excellent bass, in every parameter. Quantity is greater than the HD800, but a bit lower than the 600.
-Open, airy and delicate sound, especially treble (something I've noticed on the HE-5, LCD-2 and now the HE-6)

-Good dynamics (almost as good as the HD800).

-Good transient response and attack.
-Comfort is surprisingly good considering the ~500g weight (I'm sensitive to heavy cans...the LCD-2 were uncomfortable for sessions longer than 30 min)


Bad:
-Too much treble around 8-14KHz, sounds bright and sibilant despite the treble quality.

-Not as transparent and revealing as the HD800.

-Midrange could use a bit more presence.
-Soundstage is flat and small, a far cry from the likes of the HD800. It's slightly smaller than the HD600's SS as well.

-The focus and placement of vocals isn't as good as the HD800.
-Build quality is a bit disappointing for a $1200 headphone.
-Difficult to drive well.


Overall, these are an improvement over the HE-5s, but the sibilant treble is somewhat bothersome. The treble might change with burn-in (if orthos burn-in at all), but it would have to be a more-than-subtle change to make me like it.


My initial impressions were with 0 minutes of burn-in or previous head-time. It has now been about 10 hours with mostly pink-noise playing and the sound has changed significantly (to my surprise, since the HE-5 I owned weren't affected much by burn-in). I've been comparing the HE-6 to the HD600 since yesterday to make sure it was actually burn-in and not just me adjusting psychoacoustically. They were freezing cold when I first put them on...not sure if  normalizaing to room temperature was a factor.

The treble definitely died down from break-in. I'm hesitant to say that it decreased a lot, but that's certainly how it sounds. As a result, it feels like the bass increased. The midrange became more prominent too because of the subdued treble.

I think it might also be due to the pads, which have already changed shape from being on my noggin for a few hours.

So, the tone has changed considerably (now sounds somewhat like the HD600s), but transparency/detail remain the same. As of now, they're less fatiguing and much more forgiving than the HD800, but a bit slower (less damped) and less transparent. They don't reveal flaws, details or changes from gear swapping nearly as well as the microscope that is the HD800.
They have more bass depth and force than the Senns thought, and it can really rattle your skull with the right tracks, something the 800s will rarely do.
The soundstage hasn't changed but with more listening, I noticed it's better-layered than the HD600 and has the capacity to stretch beyond the limits of the 600s, though it still can't beat the 800 in this department.

BTW, I just want to repeat that the HD800 I'm comparing to are UPOCC silver-recabled and they sound noticeably different than with the stock or aftermarket copper wires. Silver makes them faster and bassier with more texture and impact. Copper was too slow, distant and laid-back for me.

Overall the HE-6 are pretty good. I like them, but not as much as the recabled HD800s ($1800 value.


Edited by Shahrose - 12/16/10 at 6:23pm
post #1940 of 14376
Feeling a little burned on my HE-6 situation, partly from lack of experience with headphones of this range. I didn't realize it would cost around $100 to ship these with insurance. Add to that fact if I return them to China I have to pay the import taxes. If I sell them to the public I have to take a massive hit ($100 shipping + whatever makes it sellable) just to be barely under the price of what you can buy them from China for ($1000). Wasn't expecting to lose $150-200 merely trying out some new headphones that were promising.

I suppose I learned my lesson not to buy anything without checking out all the angles first. I'm at a loss as to how to salvage as much as I can. If this is how all high end audio stuff goes I'll be either buying used only or I'll have to find a way to get to a meet with high end manufacturers present otherwise I'm not buying anything. I can't afford to lose $200 on an 'almost but not quite'.
Edited by Maxvla - 12/15/10 at 10:59pm
post #1941 of 14376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiatchai View Post

   I finally acquired one pair of Sony MDR R10 after reading the review of David Mahler "The 20 best headphones". Its serial number

is 1083 and is a bass heavy version built in 2002.  The R10 was recabled with apuresound V3 to 1/4" Neutrik jack.   I  had a chance to

compare that to the HE6 recabled with balanced Warren Audio new cable, with LCD2 recabled with balanced silver clad Zeuscu29 cable,

and Sennheiser HD800 recabled with balanced gold clad Zeus cu29cable. I  also have the speaker adapter cable custom made from Kimber Kable

to be used with HE6 to the speaker post of the ZDT.  All these I have used the ZDT as an amplifier and Oppo 83 SE NE as the source via the front analog out to

the ZDT connected by Audioquest sky 72 DBS.  (We will also have a group meeting which we will also have the chance to listen to  the Ultrasone ED10

"the Grinch that stole Christmas named by Skylab" and hope to be able to report on that soon).  

    From the first impression that I have with the R10 I agree that it deserves to be the King of the headphone although I never heard the

HE90 and ED10 yet. (Any one knows how can I get the HE90/HEV90 combo?). The bass from R10 is fast, accurate, deep and fun.  The bass

quantity,impact and soundstage of the LCD2 is one of the best but it cannot handle very fast bass from rock and roll music like Rush well enough to my taste.

The bass of HE6 is also very good and has good dynamic so it can handle the very fast bass  as well as the R10 but the quantity may be less than

LCD2.  The HD800 bass even with the gold clad cable is very good but not comparable to the aforementioned three however it can handle very fast bass well.

    R10 has the best mid probably better than the HE6 that I really like. The midrange of the LCD2 is also very good but may too rich or  congested

to some taste or kind of  music.    The midrange of the HD800  is also very good with very airy 3D feeling with very good soundstage and imaging. 

    The treble is again the minor drawback of the LCD2 even I used the silver clad cable with the LCD2  while the treble of the HD800 , HE6, R10

are excellent but the musicality of the treble goes to the R10 and HE6. 

    I think I will rank R10 first, HE6 second and a close third for LCD2 and fourth HD800.  For the kind of music:

R10 is very good for all kind of music, you cannot be wrong when you use the R10.  I like LCD 2 with rock and metal  although rock and metal

with very fast pace the LCD2 may not be that accurate comparing with the HE6 and R10.   HD800 for classical music and  HE6 is also very good for that.  

Acoustic, audiophile, celtic, classical crossover I would use the HE6 and HD800.  For vocal recording I will go with the LCD2 , HE6.  I don't listen

to Jazz much but I think I will use the HD800; for Diana Krall, Norah Jones and Cassandra Wilson I will definitely use the LCD2.


I have a ZDT also, and I'm curious what 12AX7 type tube are you using for these?  Thanks.  In my case, for the HE-6 and HD800 I've settled on a Tung Sol 5751, but for the LCD-2 I prefer a Sylvania gold pin 5751.

post #1942 of 14376

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxvla View Post

Feeling a little burned on my HE-6 situation, partly from lack of experience with headphones of this range. I didn't realize it would cost around $100 to ship these with insurance. Add to that fact if I return them to China I have to pay the import taxes. If I sell them to the public I have to take a massive hit ($100 shipping + whatever makes it sellable) just to be barely under the price of what you can buy them from China for ($1000). Wasn't expecting to lose $150-200 merely trying out some new headphones that were promising.

I suppose I learned my lesson not to buy anything without checking out all the angles first. I'm at a loss as to how to salvage as much as I can. If this is how all high end audio stuff goes I'll be either buying used only or I'll have to find a way to get to a meet with high end manufacturers present otherwise I'm not buying anything. I can't afford to lose $200 on an 'almost but not quite'.
 

Bummer, Maxvla. They won't let you send them to New York? At least you didn't pay the inbound shipping. If you can afford to wait until February or so after the introductory discount expires, you may be able to get more for them. Hopefully there will be a rush of people buying them at the last minute, and the positive reviews that come in will inspire more folks to pick them up at that point, which would pick up the used market as well.

 

Or not ph34r.gif


Edited by grokit - 12/15/10 at 11:34pm
post #1943 of 14376

It seems like HD800 is more suitable for orchestral music than HE-6.  

post #1944 of 14376

Primare A30.1

 

Mono Fully Balanced Integrated Amplifier.
Inputs: 4: Unbalanced Stereo (RCA), 2: Balanced Stereo (XLR)

Output Power:
100 Watts RMS x 2, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 8 Ω, Both Channels Driven.
 
  Mode of Operation: Dual Mono Construction, 2 x Power Supplies (1 Per Channel)
Current Capacity: 40 Amperes Peak Per Channel
Frequency response: <10 Hz-100 kHz, -3 dB.
Full Remote Control
Dimensions: W 430mm x D 385mm x H 100mm (With Feet)
Weight 15.5kg


$750 (secondhand)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tisb0b View Post

I was after what amp it was.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wuwhere View Post

The one on top looks like a DAC with a balanced out into an integrated amp with a balanced input. The HE6 is connected to the integrated amp's speaker output through banana plugs. Nice setup.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tisb0b View Post

So what is 'this'?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkhead View Post

I just plugged the HE6 into this puppy:

 

On a scale of 1-10 where the Woo WA6SE was 1, the Exposure XXV - 7 then this ranks 10 for sound quality

 

The bass is deeper again with even more control and the amp exhibits amazing control


 

 

 
post #1945 of 14376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post

I think a lot of us are getting the speaker jack adapters elsewhere.


Are the speaker jack adapters a lot of members are getting from a particular place?  I'm thinking that speaker jack adapters that terminate to the HE-6 would eliminate the need for the Y-cable arrangement altogether.

Not sure who would make such a product though. 

post #1946 of 14376

Dear Larry Headphoneaddict,

   I don't know much about tubes so I am now using the original mullard and Russian tubes provided by Craig.

   I have tried to ask Craig about which tube to be used for the upgrade but he answered that it depends on your taste

so I don't know how to do that.  If you can recommend me I will be highly appreciated because I really love my ZDT.

post #1947 of 14376
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoura View Post


Are the speaker jack adapters a lot of members are getting from a particular place?  I'm thinking that speaker jack adapters that terminate to the HE-6 would eliminate the need for the Y-cable arrangement altogether.

Not sure who would make such a product though. 


I ordered one from Moon Audio.

post #1948 of 14376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxvla View Post

Feeling a little burned on my HE-6 situation, partly from lack of experience with headphones of this range. I didn't realize it would cost around $100 to ship these with insurance. Add to that fact if I return them to China I have to pay the import taxes. If I sell them to the public I have to take a massive hit ($100 shipping + whatever makes it sellable) just to be barely under the price of what you can buy them from China for ($1000). Wasn't expecting to lose $150-200 merely trying out some new headphones that were promising.
 


On a general note, it's been shocking how much shipping costs have risen in the past year or so especially something close to the weight and size to a packaged HE6 even within CONUS, but especially internationally.  Both USP and FedEx had been quoting my between $180-200 shipping a packaged HD800 over to Europe.  USPS Global Priority is cheaper, but the risk is higher as there is no end-to-end tracking and if something happens to the package even if its insured, it takes forever to get reimbursed.

 

Of course, potential buyers will consider it a ripoff, not realizing that you're only trying to recoup actual cost without subsidizing it out of your own pocket...had this happen to me several times and learned my lessons.

post #1949 of 14376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank I View Post

I think when you are paying 1K for a headphone they should not need to be re cabled with 300-400 cables to sound good IMO and should be as perfect as can be for that kind of dough. It seems to me that you need to invest another 1000 or more to get them right. Now it becomes a very expensive headphone IMO

Frank, I consider you a friend, so please take what I say with a grain of salt. There are many above $1000 thousand dollar headphones that members have spent umpteen dollars on upgrading their cables, upon receiving them. When the $1400 HD800's arrived on the market, many people have swapped their stock cables for cables costing equal to or more than the headphones themselves. I believe that Stephan Art was selling a cable equal to the price of the headphone itself. People have a taken $6K headphone (R-10's and have invested in Jena wire that cost a pretty penny). The $1295 Audio Technica T-1's have been recabled by many folks, even though it is said that the T-1 stock cable is a pretty good cable. Denons owners (2000's, 5000's and 7000's) have modded their headphones to make them sound bound better.

A car who costs 70,000, have had owners changed out their OEM's to get, what that the feel are better tires. The UE-10's/11's/JH-13's which cost a grand, have shown noticeable improvement when adding a TWAG or ALO cable.

Look at our tube amp options. I know that any Woo amp or other tube amps can be "bettered" by replacing the stock tubes.

As was stated before, if a company included the better cables or tubes, they would have to raise the initial price of the purchase. Some people are perfectly happy with the OEM equipment that comes with the components, and there's no reason to raise the price by upgrading the peripherals. But, the opportunity is always there for people who want to improve the sound by substituting  components. But why include the more expensive cables or tubes if some people can't hear the difference in the first place? The higher price would mean less sales to the manufacturers. 

Same with power cords (some companies don't even include power cords because they know that a lot of buyers would use their own cords), and vibration control for their feet or chassis'.

The monocrystaline cable that comes with the HE-6's is clearly superior to the cables that come with the HE-5LEs (to me, at least). I know that my Qualia 010's were way too bright and when I purchased the Moon Audio Black Dragon's for them, they became the perfect headphone. I sold them to pay the bills and regret the sale to this day redface.gif .

My Blue Hawaii KE originally came with JJ Electronics EL-34's, and it was significantly improved by substituting 2 matched pairs of Mullard non-OEM EL34's.

 

Anyway, I believe my point was made.

post #1950 of 14376

Aaron the point I made was that those as my t1 and LCD2 and D7000 when I had them were all with stock cables and I found no reason swap in or out as the sound from these headphones were fine. I don not see any reasons to spend more money on cable. As for tubes. There are difference as the tubes were all hand made during different time frames by different companies. I have notices that even now some new production sounds better than NOS and vice a versa. Often tubes will change as there are many different types that can be uses even in my amp there are three rectifiers and three different options for drivers and they all sound different. A 6922 has a different sound than a variant 6DJ8 as well as my rectifiers all sound different but also have different numbers are are different tubes. Mullard was considered to be a best tube as well as others companies who made EL34.  and much has been said about tube failure on the  JJ tubes and many dealers will not even carry them.Maybe the point I was trying to make an expensive phone should not need a cable replacement. A tube amp really has many different variants. For the money charged and what I paid all my reference cables in my headphones are sufficient and do all sound good. I also have noticied that any cable adjustment in interconnects and speaker cable was subtle unless it was a Network cable such as MIT.

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