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HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone - Page 784

post #11746 of 13055
The stax is a light but very detailed presentation
Compared to the HE6. I prefer the HE 6
To it just use a little - EQ from 140 down. And they sound a little closer
And the boomy bass goes away and a great detail in bass detail comes in

Al
post #11747 of 13055

Anyone using the stock He-adapter, I find that they change the SQ a lot. Plugging it between Amp and HE-6, it was like changing HE-6 to an lesser cans. There was no body, picked high frequencies (> 9k)  and lows (80Hz - 1.5K) was almost not existent, adapter made HE-6, sound like a Grado.

 

I made sure to connect Amp and Adaptor with some good cables, not sure how other are using it as stock when SQ is altered a lot.

post #11748 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Camper View Post

I am qualifying this by saying I've not heard any of the gear being used but the HE-6.

You are running a Bitfrost/Lyr then through the UPAs/HE-6.

You want to replace the Bitfrost/Lyr with the D100 & Emo UPA-200s.

IMO, if you can spring for the Mac through the 200s, it's going to be a sonic upgrade you'll wow over. There are better amps but what you have will content you for a long time if not completely. Preproman had similar Emo amps and liked them until the space heater came to the audio dungeon.

 

Thanks for suggestion.........I already refused the offer on D100, seller still pushing me and if he makes an very good offer (close to 1K)  I will go for it.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by musicman59 View Post
 

Check about the warranty with McIntosh first because it is my understanding that McIntosh warranties are not transfarable.

 

Yes, I did check and warranties are not transferable, but seller claimed to be

post #11749 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicinmymind View Post
 

 

Thanks for suggestion.........I already refused the offer on D100, seller still pushing me and if he makes an very good offer (close to 1K)  I will go for it.

 

 

Yes, I did check and warranties are not transferable, but seller claimed to be

I guess that tells you something about the seller......

The only way to accomplish what he is saying is if he takes care of any future issues as if he still owns the unit. Now, I truly don't think you will be able to get a D100 for less than $1,250 and actually the $1,500 is not a bad price taking in consideration of how historically McIntosh equipment holds its value over time and this is a current line piece.

 

The D100 suppose to be basically the same digital section of the C-2500 preamp so it should be pretty good.

post #11750 of 13055

Is the Emotiva mini-x sufficient enough to power the HE-6 well (or near full potential)? Heard mixed opinions

Also do these headphones rectify some of the lack of airiness the HE-500 has?

post #11751 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicinmymind View Post

Anyone using the stock He-adapter, I find that they change the SQ a lot. Plugging it between Amp and HE-6, it was like changing HE-6 to an lesser cans. There was no body, picked high frequencies (> 9k)  and lows (80Hz - 1.5K) was almost not existent, adapter made HE-6, sound like a Grado.

I made sure to connect Amp and Adaptor with some good cables, not sure how other are using it as stock when SQ is altered a lot.
I had the same experience as you with the resistors. The amp lost it's aggressive dynamic attack. I also feel it makes that soundstage collapse to a more 2D presentation.

You do not need the adapter if you aren't using a transformer coupled tube amp. The extra power will not hurt your phones unless you push too much through them. Your ears should tell you before blowing a driver. But we've had an unusual amount of driver failure by accident learning how to use powerful amps . I think it's as much design/quality control as it is accidental over driving. I've blown drivers by accident and I've had them go when listening at less than moderate levels.
post #11752 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Camper View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicinmymind View Post

Anyone using the stock He-adapter, I find that they change the SQ a lot. Plugging it between Amp and HE-6, it was like changing HE-6 to an lesser cans. There was no body, picked high frequencies (> 9k)  and lows (80Hz - 1.5K) was almost not existent, adapter made HE-6, sound like a Grado.

I made sure to connect Amp and Adaptor with some good cables, not sure how other are using it as stock when SQ is altered a lot.
I had the same experience as you with the resistors. The amp lost it's aggressive dynamic attack. I also feel it makes that soundstage collapse to a more 2D presentation.

You do not need the adapter if you aren't using a transformer coupled tube amp. The extra power will not hurt your phones unless you push too much through them. Your ears should tell you before blowing a driver. But we've had an unusual amount of driver failure by accident learning how to use powerful amps . I think it's as much design/quality control as it is accidental over driving. I've blown drivers by accident and I've had them go when listening at less than moderate levels.

 

I had even funny experience with HE-6, it was damaged in transit...coming from netherlands to WashingtonDC, somehow the drivers where damaged despite there was no noticeable damage on the box...

 

 

is there any way to protect the drivers from accidents and also not loose SQ?     

post #11753 of 13055
I know people at complaining.
I have tried the resisters on at least 4 amps without any
Change it bad effect. I use the woo wa 5 as a comparison
To conclude if the effects are bad. Although a few have combined resisters and would like the post to confirm
Just what they did. I am not saying they do not hear it but would like to read what they did.

Thanks
Al
post #11754 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicinmymind View Post
 

 

I had even funny experience with HE-6, it was damaged in transit...coming from netherlands to WashingtonDC, somehow the drivers where damaged despite there was no noticeable damage on the box...

 

 

is there any way to protect the drivers from accidents and also not loose SQ?     

 

Oh man.  Why didn't buy from Headamp.  Located in Va.  You must have bought used?

post #11755 of 13055
Quote:

Originally Posted by preproman View Post

 

Oh man.  Why didn't buy from Headamp.  Located in Va.  You must have bought used?

 

It sound even more funny as it was originally brought from Headamp...

 

Yes I brought is used and had to pay 230$ to Hifiman for replacement fee, I had to wait for more than one month for an working HE-6. cost was split between me and seller and we are still waiting for Insurance response. 

 

good side is that.... I got a new HP now as replacement.

post #11756 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicinmymind View Post
 

Anyone using the stock He-adapter, I find that they change the SQ a lot. Plugging it between Amp and HE-6, it was like changing HE-6 to an lesser cans. There was no body, picked high frequencies (> 9k)  and lows (80Hz - 1.5K) was almost not existent, adapter made HE-6, sound like a Grado.

 

I made sure to connect Amp and Adaptor with some good cables, not sure how other are using it as stock when SQ is altered a lot.

See, that's one of the things I've been wondering about:  to what extent do those resistors degrade the information that's in the signal?  I don't know anything about electricity though so can't judge it buit at least in theory it would seem cleaner to me to forego, say a 100 W speaker amp where you'll need resistors or risk blowing something up or ending up with an unusable volume control in favour of something lower powered that might enable one to connect them directly IF such a thing is possible without causing trouble due to load imbalance between the headphone/amp.  

 

Sorry to read about your import trouble; I'm wary about importing fragile stuff or having it shipped to me long distance.  If nothing else, when I import from the US, duties and sales tax + shipping and handling boost the price about 30% so for more expensive items it's almost worthwhile to make a short holiday out of it and take the item back in hand luggage.  If only the flight weren't so bloody long, I spend enough time in airports as it is.

post #11757 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenophon View Post
 

See, that's one of the things I've been wondering about:  to what extent do those resistors degrade the information that's in the signal?  I don't know anything about electricity though so can't judge it buit at least in theory it would seem cleaner to me to forego, say a 100 W speaker amp where you'll need resistors or risk blowing something up or ending up with an unusable volume control in favour of something lower powered that might enable one to connect them directly IF such a thing is possible without causing trouble due to load imbalance between the headphone/amp.  

 

Sorry to read about your import trouble; I'm wary about importing fragile stuff or having it shipped to me long distance.  If nothing else, when I import from the US, duties and sales tax + shipping and handling boost the price about 30% so for more expensive items it's almost worthwhile to make a short holiday out of it and take the item back in hand luggage.  If only the flight weren't so bloody long, I spend enough time in airports as it is.

With a properly designed and implemented resistor attenuator box, there should be no change in sound quality at all.  

post #11758 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 
 

With a properly designed and implemented resistor attenuator box, there should be no change in sound quality at all.  

 

if you are not good at DIY, is there any option?

post #11759 of 13055

Pick an amp with low power/low gain and skip the box entirely.

post #11760 of 13055
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 
 

With a properly designed and implemented resistor attenuator box, there should be no change in sound quality at all.  

 

Great! So :thumb: where does the stock HiFiMAN HE-Adapter stack up quality wise... anyone know? I'm still trying to optimize my transformer-coupled monaural amps. Currently using the stock HE-Adapter, which I believe let's the amp see the HE-6 @ 8 Ohms. Also, tonight I'm having thoughts of trying those Autoformers.

 

If/when solving this puzzle returns max fidelity, I may have to start :tongue_smile:working from home.

 

This post is a plea for help! 

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