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HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone - Page 769

post #11521 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorspeaker View Post
 

need help...my right connector on the stock HE6 cable started twisting loose a little, and i am getting intermittent distortion. 

 

Question, can i just cut open the shrinkwrap and do soldering on it? ( is it factory crimped or something..

i cant figure out how the connector works.. there is a spare set of connector in my hifiman box :P )

 

Or i have to buy something like this ? its called a "DIY" connector? looks fatter/bigger than what came with the stock hifimancable?

http://www.moon-audio.com/hifiman-diy-headphone-connectors.html#

These have taps that i can solder the wires to??

 

Before you start soldering, warranting, etc .. do a thorough check of your connector screws, especially the one hidden inside the driver behind the grill. Remove the grill and you will notice  there is a screw that holds the connector in place. Sometimes it comes lose (happened to me). Retighten the screw if lose. It's best to do this without the cable attached. When you reattach the cable do not forget to counter-rotate the cable first before reattaching. Hope that helps, and of course, only if it applies.

post #11522 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terja View Post
 

 

Before you start soldering, warranting, etc .. do a thorough check of your connector screws, especially the one hidden inside the driver behind the grill. Remove the grill and you will notice  there is a screw that holds the connector in place. Sometimes it comes lose (happened to me). Retighten the screw if lose. It's best to do this without the cable attached. When you reattach the cable do not forget to counter-rotate the cable first before reattaching. Hope that helps, and of course, only if it applies.

Good advice to certainly try. However, I had the exact experience he describes with both of my HE-6 cables at the adapter. I really dislike those things that I have gone through the trouble of hardwiring the cable to the SPC wires coming out of the wafer.

post #11523 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terja View Post
 

 

Before you start soldering, warranting, etc .. do a thorough check of your connector screws, especially the one hidden inside the driver behind the grill. Remove the grill and you will notice  there is a screw that holds the connector in place. Sometimes it comes lose (happened to me). Retighten the screw if lose. It's best to do this without the cable attached. When you reattach the cable do not forget to counter-rotate the cable first before reattaching. Hope that helps, and of course, only if it applies.


I've also had this happen. Also retightening that screw isn't enough. You need to apply some epoxy to keep it from unscrewing itself too.

post #11524 of 19433
Hot melt glue is a better idea

Al
post #11525 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by dleblanc343 View Post
 

To those seeking superior comfort and sound with HE-6, I'd like to say the LCD3 pads after over year have never been swapped out; it's day and night compared to stock pad options.

 

Now the thing to take note of is the change in sound characteristics. The LCD3 pads really open up the stage and increase airiness, but also treble presence. To counter that, I made sure to put double sided tape on the pads along the perimeter all while clipping in the 4 tabs of the ring in place (it's a hassle, but well worth it!). Bass becomes much more impactful and taut providing an amazing listening experience. The bass does not bleed out as much.

 

I posted some pictures about a month or two back, I highly recommend doing this to any HE6 owner. This ultimately converted me from slightly preferring the HD800's to now slightly preferring the HE6 for listening.

 

Keep in mind, my Dac is the NAD M51 (analog-sounding and less aggressive than say, BDA-2) and my amplifier is a heavily modded McIntosh MC225. So the results of the pad changes would definitely be more beneficial to users with a more forgiving/warm sounding rig.

 

(I've also been told the Alpha pads yield good results too, I haven't tried it personally but I do own the Alpha Dogs... Maybe I'll test it out and let you guys know!)

 

Besides comfort - where both the Alpha Pads and Audeze Vegan bring a definite improvement - I don't agree with this.

Switching to the Vegan pads reduced air and closed the soundstage a bit for an overall warmer and more forgiving presentation. I'm not sure about the bass yet but I feel it is a bit looser, too. The pads are taped directly to the cups, as advised by ouroughami (sorry for the spelling).

And that is compared to the stock pleather pads, which are already warmer and more intimate than the velour.

 

The Alpha Pads do open up the stage but the sound becomes glary. The best explanation was that reflections were bouncing between my ears and the exposed inner magnet (which is not covered by a thick cloth like on the Vegan or - to a lesser extent - the stock pleather. The dust screen is more transparent on the Alpha Pads) and that caused resonance in the treble.

People advise to do the "cotton mod" (basically removing it) and the felt mod to prevent reflections to occur. This is much more than a simple pad change to me, honestly. I'm of course willing to do it but I can't recommend these pads to people not willing to do these mods, unless they have bright/forward gears, in which case the Vegan pads are great.

 

The Alpha Pads do wonder on the HE-5LE, though (which has dampening material over the inner magnet to prevent reflections).

post #11526 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemmaster View Post
 

 

Besides comfort - where both the Alpha Pads and Audeze Vegan bring a definite improvement - I don't agree with this.

Switching to the Vegan pads reduced air and closed the soundstage a bit for an overall warmer and more forgiving presentation. I'm not sure about the bass yet but I feel it is a bit looser, too. The pads are taped directly to the cups, as advised by ouroughami (sorry for the spelling).

And that is compared to the stock pleather pads, which are already warmer and more intimate than the velour.

 

The Alpha Pads do open up the stage but the sound becomes glary. The best explanation was that reflections were bouncing between my ears and the exposed inner magnet (which is not covered by a thick cloth like on the Vegan or - to a lesser extent - the stock pleather. The dust screen is more transparent on the Alpha Pads) and that caused resonance in the treble.

People advise to do the "cotton mod" (basically removing it) and the felt mod to prevent reflections to occur. This is much more than a simple pad change to me, honestly. I'm of course willing to do it but I can't recommend these pads to people not willing to do these mods, unless they have bright/forward gears, in which case the Vegan pads are great.

 

The Alpha Pads do wonder on the HE-5LE, though (which has dampening material over the inner magnet to prevent reflections).

I agree with you too, it's a conglomeration of minor mods that make the pads themselves work very well. I couldn't recommend the Audeze pads by themselves without those mods for the reasons you mentioned.

post #11527 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

I agree with you too, it's a conglomeration of minor mods that make the pads themselves work very well. I couldn't recommend the Audeze pads by themselves without those mods for the reasons you mentioned.

 

When I get the F5, I'll make a decision whether to mod the HE-6 further or not, depending on the tonality.

 

I tried the Cinuas + EF-6 last thursday and I liked the forgiving but not too warm sound with the HE-6 + Vegan (compared to the SA-2 or QuteHD as DAC).

post #11528 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemmaster View Post
 

 

When I get the F5, I'll make a decision whether to mod the HE-6 further or not, depending on the tonality.

 

I tried the Cinuas + EF-6 last thursday and I liked the forgiving but not too warm sound with the HE-6 + Vegan (compared to the SA-2 or QuteHD as DAC).

 

 

Man I was just about to say the exact same thing..:biggrin:

post #11529 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terja View Post

Before you start soldering, warranting, etc .. do a thorough check of your connector screws, especially the one hidden inside the driver behind the grill. Remove the grill and you will notice  there is a screw that holds the connector in place. Sometimes it comes lose (happened to me). Retighten the screw if lose. It's best to do this without the cable attached. When you reattach the cable do not forget to counter-rotate the cable first before reattaching. Hope that helps, and of course, only if it applies.

What's loosen is that part on the cable...not on the cup .
Where the wire meets the connector.
post #11530 of 19433

:deadhorse:

Doesn't anyone in SoCal wanna hard-wire my cans?! I am patient, silent (discreet) and pay well. Can't tell y'all how close I am to requesting a RMA and have 'em factory soldered! Yeah, I'll pick up shipping and the cost of Cardas Silver Solder but, these silly connectors gotta go.

post #11531 of 19433


@Lorspeaker - That sucks - Hifiman customer service is probably the best option to pursue.

post #11532 of 19433

I think that the SR-007 pads are pretty swell on the HE-6. Gives it a bit of bass slam and they're pretty damn pillowy on the ears (thanks elwappo :D )!

post #11533 of 19433
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaed View Post

I think that the SR-007 pads are pretty swell on the HE-6. Gives it a bit of bass slam and they're pretty damn pillowy on the ears (thanks elwappo biggrin.gif )!

I use them sometimes too, but they change the sounding quite considerably and not allways for the better. I like that with Pop Musik but not for classical.
post #11534 of 19433

Welp I've officially joined the club. Just purchased my set of HE-6 from a headfier

post #11535 of 19433

:veryevil:

:beerchug:

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