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HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone - Page 693

post #10381 of 15369
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohhgourami View Post
 


Yes, absolutely possible for high performance at low volume listening. All I do is listen at relatively low volumes compared to most. You will need a speaker amp to get the most out of it.

 

Thank you for that confirmation, I figured this was the case.

 

Amazing how 6 months changes things - before I was like "I am not going to keep trying to climb this mountain (HE-6), there must something else I can drive with what I have that will satisfy me!", and now I'm like "OK, the HE-6 are IT for me, I will do what I need to to drive them".

 

So, I will be using my Ref 10 as DAC/pre-amp in this scenario... question then follows, what amp??? That, of course, is THE question where the HE-6 are concerned, isn't it? ;)

post #10382 of 15369

We need to know your budget first :tongue:

post #10383 of 15369

Since when has that been a consideration :)

 

Lots of amps from Emotiva - sideways and upwards

 

There is a thread here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/529873/amps-that-can-drive-the-hifiman-he-6-planar-headphones

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohhgourami View Post
 

We need to know your budget first :tongue:

post #10384 of 15369

@NZtechfreak Many First Watt, Krells, and various vintage iron have all been reported with good results. Important factors will be current capability, preamp matching, and space limitations.

 

If you want something to hold you off, a T-amp, or Emotiva Mini are good places to start. Definitely check out your local hifi shops with the HE-6 too. Demo everything under the sun :)

post #10385 of 15369
I have that product audio gd ref 10.32 right. If so email kingwa. He illustrated to me how to increase the gain with two or four resister pots inside. It helped me. . But as for low level amps will be needed . As all hear will say. But the dac in the ref 10. Is good for that headphone. Some solid state most def will be cheaper. And used is better yet...

Good luck

Al D
post #10386 of 15369
Budget TBD, but as I said, I'm all in here, so the budget will extend to at least $4K USD I suppose.

Good point about the hifi stores, will need to arrange some cabling terminated in speaker tap connectors...
post #10387 of 15369
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALRAINBOW View Post

I have that product audio gd ref 10.32 right. If so email kingwa. He illustrated to me how to increase the gain with two or four resister pots inside. It helped me. . But as for low level amps will be needed . As all hear will say. But the dac in the ref 10. Is good for that headphone. Some solid state most def will be cheaper. And used is better yet...

Good luck

Al D

Thanks, that's a good thought too, as you say though, probably no way around amping here. I really did enjoy the Ref 10 sound with the HE-6, so quite comfortable with using it as the DAC/pre-amp. Absolutely lived the Ref 10 with the HD800 too, for that matter.
post #10388 of 15369
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hun7er View Post

Hello, 

 
I have a Threshold SA 3.9e. The HE6 sounds too dark and congested. I will see with the a good preamp, I use lynx hilo for the volume control.
What cables are you using? I'm surprised that the Hilo sounds dark or congested. Does it sound the same with the M7?
post #10389 of 15369
The dac puts you just a few rows back , and in doing so I feel it let's the different sounds come together slower . Another dac I have is pwd mkii it's front and center but for headphones it is a little to close. But great with speakers. And yes it does sound sweet with the hd800. And 4k is plenty of money for a great amp...good luck. This thread shows just how passionate people are about these headphones and also what a pain they are to sound there best..good luck.

Al D
post #10390 of 15369
Quote:
Originally Posted by NZtechfreak View Post

Budget TBD, but as I said, I'm all in here, so the budget will extend to at least $4K USD I suppose.

Good point about the hifi stores, will need to arrange some cabling terminated in speaker tap connectors...


In that case...:veryevil:

 

Go for an amp that's pure Class A. I've heard some great things about the Krell KSA's which cost ~$1500+. Audio-gd also has the Master-3 and Master-10 which is worth looking into. If I had a built in preamp in my DAC, I probably would have gone with a Krell KSA. Whatever you do, don't sell yourself short on resolution for the amp.

post #10391 of 15369
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohhgourami View Post
 


In that case...:veryevil:

 

Go for an amp that's pure Class A. I've heard some great things about the Krell KSA's which cost ~$1500+. Audio-gd also has the Master-3 and Master-10 which is worth looking into. If I had a built in preamp in my DAC, I probably would have gone with a Krell KSA. Whatever you do, don't sell yourself short on resolution for the amp.

Pure class A current amp: Nelson Pass F1 or F1J.  That is a hard one to find.  Check out other Nelson Pass designs: Threshold. Pass Labs.  Other First Watt offerings like the F5...

 

Also consider John Curl designs.  Parasound has some excellent offerings, both new and "obsolete" that will do justice to the HE-6.

post #10392 of 15369
The F1J only puts about 1 Watt max in 50 Ohms, voltage limited. I got this from the maestro himself. According to Ohms law the impedance will determine how much current will be drawn, and 50 Ohm is not a nasty load that calls for a speaker amp.
So this - again - tells me that wattage / ampere is not the primary concern with HE-6.

However, the F1J is supposedly a very clear and transparent amp, but as I said, according to Nelson Pass it's not delivering more than about 1W and thus not more than many high powered headphone amps - actually much less. My Soloist, which has been doubted by some regarding the HE-6 is at about 1.7W, then yields considerably more than the F1J, not to mention my Audio-gd Master 6 which is 7W in 50 Ohms.

What this is more likely about is that the HE-6 has slightly too much treble (and with velour pads also less low end than with stock pleather). Especially the velour pads may give you the impression that it needs more power / current, but in fact it's the frequency response with these pads which is the issue. With pleather pads it's better, but there is still a little too much treble. This can't be fixed with extra power / current IMO. However, it can be fixed with other pads or felt or whatever it takes to absorb some of the excess treble. And subjectively, if you turn up the volume, you experience more low end also which will sound more balanced and you experience more details too.
post #10393 of 15369

I don't know if this has been discussed before, but I think one of HE-6's greatest faults is its screw-in connectors. This has got to be the worst type of connector I've seen in any $1K+ headphones with detachable cables. The problem is that need I screw the rotatable portion of the connector into the headphone, but since it's so small it's difficult for me to screw it with my fingers all the way. It's difficult for me to apply enough force into it, so it's nearly impossible to screw it all the way (thus ensuring a secure, tight connection) with my bare fingers only. The connector still feels somewhat wobbly, and turns around a little too.

 

Is there a solution to this problem? Perhaps a tool that I can use to screw it all the way (without damaging the headphone or the connectors, hopefully), or a smart method to get it done without a specific tool?

post #10394 of 15369
Quote:
Originally Posted by songmic View Post

I don't know if this has been discussed before, but I think one of HE-6's greatest faults is its screw-in connectors. This has got to be the worst type of connector I've seen in any $1K+ headphones with detachable cables. The problem is that need I screw the rotatable portion of the connector into the headphone, but since it's so small it's difficult for me to screw it with my fingers all the way. It's difficult for me to apply enough force into it, so it's nearly impossible to screw it all the way (thus ensuring a secure, tight connection) with my bare fingers only. The connector still feels somewhat wobbly, and turns around a little too.

Is there a solution to this problem? Perhaps a tool that I can use to screw it all the way (without damaging the headphone or the connectors, hopefully), or a smart method to get it done without a specific tool?
Normally I just twist the cable counter clockwise first then clockwise tighten down the cable without worrying about the small screw.

I wish hifiman would use mini-xlrs for the next headphone.
post #10395 of 15369

Instead of focusing on the next model release...

:deadhorse:

 

 

:rolleyes: I have strong dislike (understatement) for those connectors. I'm almost certain it impacts fidelity as well.

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