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HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone - Page 672

post #10066 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karllin View Post

Thank you wuwhere. Do you know if the he-6 and he-500 are the same weight? I think weighing them will be one test. Fakes seldom are made to great detail in use of exact materials. My concern now is hifiman's seemingly lack of consistency. Do you think the sound has changed much over the few years thy have been produced?

 

From their website, HE-6 and HE-500 have the same approximate mass, 502 g.

post #10067 of 14047
Weight can be offset by hiding some weight in the phone.

As for change of sound over the years, I've had the introductory pair ($999), and three other pair over the years (latest being approx. 6 mos. old). I think the newer ones have a bit more bass impact than the original ones.

That gold trace is the only sure method. Can't trick that with tampering.
post #10068 of 14047

I believe the cables are different between them, the HE-6 has the see through while the HE-500 is black.

post #10069 of 14047
I would certainly look for the gold on the drivers as the simple and most sure proof that it's a HE-6 and not a HE-500.
post #10070 of 14047

I agree, the best is to open it and look at the driver. But if the store won't let you do that without first buying them due to potential damage to the unit, the cable should tell you if it is an HE-6.

post #10071 of 14047
Mine have the purple hue and i hate it, makes them look crappy and again emphasizes the fact that theyre made in china and have sub par build quality. Should be solid glossy piano black not look like its been painted with a sharpie


Of course they sound great, but i am disappointed at the paint job on mine
post #10072 of 14047

Small update for everyone regarding characteristic impedance of various cabling i have on hand.

 

I have set my meter to the smallest reading of 200R, put my leads together, and my resistance of the leads is 00.3

 

8ft. of 12 awg flat copper foil = unable to read

 

10ft. of 18awg stranded copper (cheap car stuff) = +00.2

 

25ft 24AWG 7N UPOCC Silver solid core = +00.3

 

5ft 14AWG Silver-plated stranded copper military spec wire = +00.2

 

6ft 12AWG non-OFC (low grade) Stranded Copper = +00.3

 

4ft. 20AWG 7N Solid core copper = +00.1

 

What does all this tell me?

 

1) I need a better meter for finer readings.

2) The worst offenders of power loss, per foot, are the 14AWG SPC military spec wire and the 12 AWG non-OFC with a cheap dielectric.

3) The best one is the 12AWG Flat copper foil

4) Not all cable geometries are equal. It matters in terms of maximum power delivery

 

Note: I haven't de-soldered my Sunset cable yet, so I don't know what it's impedance is. However, the power is going through 48ft. of 26AWG cable! My intuition is telling me I can drop it by atleast 10R.  My best guesses for an optimum HE-6 cable that's 12ft+ is to go with either a 14-20AWG flat copper foil (will be very flimsy), 18-20AWG solid core (will be stiff), or 14-16AWG OFC stranded copper that is not plated (Flexible).

 

Optimal choice in my opinion? 16AWG OFC stranded copper for the best strength/flexibility/power delivery ratio of a 10ft+ HE-6 cable

 

Can somebody please measure the actual AWG of the stock HifiMan HE-6 cable? I don't see specs on the website, nor would I take it as 100% truth. Thanks!

post #10073 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

Small update for everyone regarding characteristic impedance of various cabling i have on hand.

 

I have set my meter to the smallest reading of 200R, put my leads together, and my resistance of the leads is 00.3

 

8ft. of 12 awg flat copper foil = unable to read

 

10ft. of 18awg stranded copper (cheap car stuff) = +00.2

 

25ft 24AWG 7N UPOCC Silver solid core = +00.3

 

5ft 14AWG Silver-plated stranded copper military spec wire = +00.2

 

6ft 12AWG non-OFC (low grade) Stranded Copper = +00.3

 

4ft. 20AWG 7N Solid core copper = +00.1

 

What does all this tell me?

 

1) I need a better meter for finer readings.

2) The worst offenders of power loss, per foot, are the 14AWG SPC military spec wire and the 12 AWG non-OFC with a cheap dielectric.

3) The best one is the 12AWG Flat copper foil

4) Not all cable geometries are equal. It matters in terms of maximum power delivery

 

Note: I haven't de-soldered my Sunset cable yet, so I don't know what it's impedance is. However, the power is going through 48ft. of 26AWG cable! My intuition is telling me I can drop it by atleast 10R.  My best guesses for an optimum HE-6 cable that's 12ft+ is to go with either a 14-20AWG flat copper foil (will be very flimsy), 18-20AWG solid core (will be stiff), or 14-16AWG OFC stranded copper that is not plated (Flexible).

 

Optimal choice in my opinion? 16AWG OFC stranded copper for the best strength/flexibility/power delivery ratio of a 10ft+ HE-6 cable

 

Can somebody please measure the actual AWG of the stock HifiMan HE-6 cable? I don't see specs on the website, nor would I take it as 100% truth. Thanks!

Small point:  DC resistance, not characteristic impedance.  Characteristic impedance includes capacitance and inductance effects at a given frequency or over a given frequency range.

 

Precision milliohm meters are pretty expensive last time I checked....

 

Thanks for the measurements, though.  I'm intrigued with your copper foil cables... Might have to look into a version of them myself.  

post #10074 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 

Small point:  DC resistance, not characteristic impedance.  Characteristic impedance includes capacitance and inductance effects at a given frequency or over a given frequency range.

 

Precision milliohm meters are pretty expensive last time I checked....

 

Thanks for the measurements, though.  I'm intrigued with your copper foil cables... Might have to look into a version of them myself.  

Thanks for the clarification, I should have chosen my words a little more wisely :tongue:

 

Yeah, I'm not investing in that type of meter until I have a rational need for it lol.

 

Here's the copper foil i used

 

Pic of copper foil cable (Click to show)

It's just not practical for a headphone cable, but it's perfect for my speakers.

 

Here's what could be a potentially good cable for this geometry - You would just need to split the conductors right before it enters the cups. I think I'm going to purchase this type actually, maybe not this exact brand though.

 

The problem here though, is that you can't tie a knot inside the earcup for strain relief, so there needs to be a creative solution for that. Ideas?


Edited by brunk - 11/10/13 at 1:22pm
post #10075 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

Thanks for the clarification, I should have chosen my words a little more wisely :tongue:

 

Yeah, I'm not investing in that type of meter until I have a rational need for it lol.

 

Here's the copper foil i used

 

Pic of copper foil cable (Click to show)

It's just not practical for a headphone cable, but it's perfect for my speakers.

 

Here's what could be a potentially good cable for this geometry - You would just need to split the conductors right before it enters the cups. I think I'm going to purchase this type actually, maybe not this exact brand though.

 

The problem here though, is that you can't tie a knot inside the earcup for strain relief, so there needs to be a creative solution for that. Ideas?

Looks like flattened zip cord to me....  I've still got a lot of research and learning to do on cables before replacing my stock cable.  When I do finally do that I'll definitely go to a different connector at the headphone.  Mini-XLR, probably.

post #10076 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 

Looks like flattened zip cord to me....  I've still got a lot of research and learning to do on cables before replacing my stock cable.  When I do finally do that I'll definitely go to a different connector at the headphone.  Mini-XLR, probably.

Yeah it's a pretty tricky game here. I think the HifiMan connector is adequate, but for me I am seeking to eliminate as many connections/solder joints as I can. One good benefit of that flat cable is that i wouldn't need banana/spade plugs because it looks durable enough to not lose any strands like a normal cable.

post #10077 of 14047

I'm using bare Silver soldered tips, no connectors on the end of my pigtails.

:popcorn:

post #10078 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubstep Girl View Post

Mine have the purple hue and i hate it, makes them look crappy and again emphasizes the fact that theyre made in china and have sub par build quality. Should be solid glossy piano black not look like its been painted with a sharpie


Of course they sound great, but i am disappointed at the paint job on mine

:(

Aesthetics are important to me. And that's before we consider the investment. Just looked at mine more closely and it appears to be Piano Black. If I'm wrong, I'd best book an eye exam.

post #10079 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Camper View Post

Weight can be offset by hiding some weight in the phone.

As for change of sound over the years, I've had the introductory pair ($999), and three other pair over the years (latest being approx. 6 mos. old). I think the newer ones have a bit more bass impact than the original ones.

That gold trace is the only sure method. Can't trick that with tampering.

 

This is a comforting confirm to know. I wouldn't want to leave even the tinniest aspect of Bass :tongue_smile:on the table.

post #10080 of 14047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent One View Post
 

:(

Aesthetics are important to me. And that's before we consider the investment. Just looked at mine more closely and it appears to be Piano Black. If I'm wrong, I'd best book an eye exam.

I'm sure you're just fine, as it appears someone said their HE-6 doesn't have this unique finish. From the time I owned them in 2011 and now, from early 2013, I have always had this finish with a purple hue. I have never seen it on the 5LE or 500 though.

 

I suppose to get to the bottom of this is contact HifiMan. If they state it never had a pure black finish without this hue, then I would be concerned. Where did you purchase yours? I bought mine from Audio Advisor, which is an authorized dealer.

 

http://hifiman.com/AboutUs/Dealer/


Edited by brunk - 11/10/13 at 2:54pm
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