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Need some advice- amp ballpark prices, which one to start with?

post #1 of 31
5/16/10 at 12:41pm
Thread Starter 

I have a little experience with DIY, including the obligatory CMOY and a tube guitar amp. I am ready to step up to a full size amp. I've worked with 120V AC on the guitar amp, so I know what that entails.

 

I have only so looked at amps on AMB Labs and Tangentsoft, but I know there are a lot out there. I'd like to build an amp that has a lot of support, nothing too exotic.

 

I was thinking that I could build a σ11 psu because it seems that a lot of amps would work with it. So if I made a σ11, what options would I have for amps? How much would they cost? Maybe a M3 would be a good idea? I really don't know how to decide...

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post #2 of 31
5/17/10 at 10:01am
Thread Starter 

Maybe I'm not asking the right questions? If I limit myself to >$200 does that make it easier?

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post #3 of 31
5/17/10 at 10:10am

Certainly, there's the β22...

 

Just kidding. There are lots of amps that you can build for less than $200 if that is what you're asking. Any amp that uses a single rail (V+ and G) can be used with the σ11. Be careful around amps that involves virtual ground or dual rails (V+, G, and V-).

 

The M³ is pretty simple and easy to understand and troubleshoot... See my signature for pics of a populated board.

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post #4 of 31
5/17/10 at 2:25pm
Thread Starter 

OK so the dual rail designs are more complicated?

 

How much would it cost to build an M3 with a power supply, around?

 

*edit* just checked AMB again and found a link to a BOM with prices. Seems around the $200 range w/o PSU ($140 parts, can't be more than $60 for enclosure and jacks, can it?)

 

So how about the o11?


Edited by T.B.N. - 5/17/10 at 7:53pm
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post #5 of 31
5/17/10 at 3:01pm

Not necessarily. The Mini³ and Pimeta v2 uses dual rails (via a TLE2426) and are pretty simple.

 

You should learn how to source parts yourself if you want to get into the DIY field. Make an excel file, get the parts list from respective website, go to Mouser/Digikey/Newark, and fill out the list. You can find some example BOM files (Excel) at diyforums.org, and there is an M³ BOM at amb's website.

 

It cost me around $300 for parts alone.


Edited by ShinyFalcon - 5/17/10 at 8:02pm
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post #6 of 31
5/17/10 at 3:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.B.N. View Post

can't be more than $60 for enclosure and jacks, can it?

 


Yup, far, far more if you want something that is very nicely presented.

Remember that you need...

Basic enclosure

Rear panel work (holes, engraving)

Front panel work (holes)

Base work (holes)

Knob(s)

Mains switch

Input sockets

Output socket(s)

Feet

Hardware - spacers, screws, washers, nuts, etc.

Assembly aids - heat-transfer compound, thread locking compound, etc.

Wire

Heatsinks

Mains lead, plug, fuse
etc., etc...

 

It soon mounts up!

 

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post #7 of 31
5/17/10 at 7:15pm
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyFalcon View Post

Not necessarily. The Mini³ and Pimeta v2 uses dual rails (via a TLE2426) and are pretty simple.

 

You should learn how to source parts yourself if you want to get into the DIY field. Make an excel file, get the parts list from respective website, go to Mouser/Digikey/Newark, and fill out the list. You can find some example BOM files (Excel) at diyforums.org, and there is an M³ BOM at amb's website.

 

It cost me around $300 for parts alone.

So I guess that you used the best/very high quality parts for yours? The BOM I found on AMB was a lot cheaper. At this point in time I don't really know how to distinguish between higher/lesser quality parts, except for simple specs like resistor tolerances. 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leny View Post




Yup, far, far more if you want something that is very nicely presented.

Remember that you need...

Basic enclosure

Rear panel work (holes, engraving)

Front panel work (holes)

Base work (holes)

Knob(s)

Mains switch

Input sockets

Output socket(s)

Feet

Hardware - spacers, screws, washers, nuts, etc.

Assembly aids - heat-transfer compound, thread locking compound, etc.

Wire

Heatsinks

Mains lead, plug, fuse
etc., etc...

 

It soon mounts up!

 


Wow, thanks for the heads up. I overlooked that. It seems that assembling the board is the easy part, getting it in an enclosure seems like it's trickier.

 

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to step back and write up a BOM like you suggested, ShinyFalcon, and then come back for advice on the specific parts (I don't want to get the wrong stuff!)

 

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post #8 of 31
5/17/10 at 7:39pm

Please also use the outrageously fantastic search feature here.  This question comes up quite a bit and there is a ton of advice ready and waiting!

 

Welcome! 

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post #9 of 31
5/17/10 at 7:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.B.N. View Post

 

So I guess that you used the best/very high quality parts for yours? The BOM I found on AMB was a lot cheaper. At this point in time I don't really know how to distinguish between higher/lesser quality parts, except for simple specs like resistor tolerances. 


Nope! I try to be as simplistic as possible with my builds. My cost included the list Leny gave above. I used whatever was listed in the BOM for pretty much everything. Casework and panels adds to the bulk of the cost, which I skimped on.

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post #10 of 31
5/17/10 at 8:35pm

T.B.N., one component to 'get right' is the volume control. Cheap potentiometers are cheap for a reason!

 

Consider steering towards a Noble or TDK potentiometer rather than cheap Alps stuff or carbon pots. (Or possibly a stepped attenuator if you can find one with small steps).

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post #11 of 31
5/17/10 at 10:07pm
Thread Starter 

So the alps "blue velvet" is on the cheap side? I'll look them up.

 

partsconnexion has the TDK pots, but only one of them is the necessary 50Kohms, and its ~$70, too much. I've been searching around for recommended suppliers, besides digikey and mouser, to find these parts. I can't seem to find anything else, except for percy audio which is supposed to be unreliable.

 

I think I might stay away from a stepped attenuator because I want to keep it simple and not super expensive.


Edited by T.B.N. - 5/18/10 at 3:37am
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post #12 of 31
5/19/10 at 5:58pm

I've done quite a lot of DIY in my time and I've never found a 'reasonable price' Alps pot that tracks well (left / right equality) at the lower end of the volume range where we often use it.

Maybe I've just been unlucky. Hope your luck runs better than mine !!! 

 

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post #13 of 31
5/19/10 at 6:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leny View Post

I've done quite a lot of DIY in my time and I've never found a 'reasonable price' Alps pot that tracks well (left / right equality) at the lower end of the volume range where we often use it.

Maybe I've just been unlucky. Hope your luck runs better than mine !!! 

 


How about a TDK 6R25 pot that is around $37? 

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post #14 of 31
5/19/10 at 7:14pm

Can't help with that one as I'm not familiar with the part number. I've used 2CP-2500 on two projects, and they are really fine. Not cheap though, as you previously mentioned.

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post #15 of 31
5/19/10 at 7:26pm

I have been intrigued by the Audio Note pots - only come in 100k at PcX. Have not used them yet, but awfully curious.

 

http://www.partsconnexion.com/controls_pot_audionote.html

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