No - just straight earplugs marketed to musicians. Protect from noise (so they lower dBs) but you can still hear sound with clarity so unmuffled like normal earplugs.
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- Hi End CablesLast edited: 1/8/12
This is my second round with these "holy grail" of headphones. First time around I was just laughing at it's meager power capability. The sound was good, but not mind blowing. Zero sub bass...
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- Hi End Cables
Testing audiophile claims and myths - Page 134
Head-Fi's Best Sellers
That's them. I think they're great so I don't want you bursting my perception bubble now...
On another topic I came across this regarding a certain rather expensive power cable:
Answer: Because all of your other equipment is polluting it. Buy a fancy wire for your refrigerator and AC unit too!
Question: I bought your overpriced wire and I couldn't hear a difference. Why?
Answer: Because the rest of your system sucks!
I love stuff like that!
My favorite post in a long time. The claim? Some powerbanks make your dap sound better than others. Behold:
I want share my experiment with 3 power bank charger as follow :
Source : AK 120
Headphone : LCD 3
Power bank : with 2 USB charger 1 mAh and 2 mAh , Energizer only 1 USB
from left to right
Yoobao limited edition with Swarovski crystal 7800 mAh white colour
Hame 10400 mAh blue colour
Energizer power bank XP 8000
The best sound quality if I charge my AK 120 with these 3 power banks as follow
The best SQ is with Hame , the best balance SQ the best bass impact
Second best SQ is with Energizer xp 8000
Third best SQ is with Yoobao
High : with Hame more clear and extended high
Mid : with Hame more sweet and clear
Bass : with Hame very clean bass impact and bass detail
Clarity: with Hame is the best m second Energizer
Separation : the best separation with Hame
Soundstage : the best with Hame , second Energizer
Backgound : with Hame has the black background
Hearing is believing please try it , I is very interesting experience
Can improve the power from AK 120 as well , I can drive my LCD 3 in loud but very excellent SQ
Conclusion : if I use power bank with higher ampere , can make the best SQ for my AK 120
This is a level of self-delusion I just can't comprehend. I think this guy is seriously addicted to buying gear. He has every piece of high-end portable gear known to man, and always posts multiple pics of his newest/latest/best-sounding blahblahblah etc. I'm not exaggerating when I tell you I think this is an addiction of his. Frightening stuff. If I'm wrong, please correct me since I'm being fairly critical (I should be nicer, I know.)
Edited by doublea71 - 6/3/13 at 3:20am
Bigshot - you said you analyse your setup for gremlins or underperformance and focus on improving those areas. Would you mind sharing with the noobs like me how you would approach doing that? E.g.: I like my new setup but I expect the bass could be tighter and I detect a bit of sibilance in the treble sometimes.
The first thing I'd do is try to determine if the stuff you're hearing is mixed into the music itself. Find a super clean recording with lots of bass and high end and see if it still acts up.
If there are still problems even with well recorded music, it's likely frequency response issues in your headphones. I'd start by looking at published response graphs on your particular make and model and see if you see a midbass bump and a spike around 8kHz. A good equalizer can help you isolate the trouble areas and tame them. Always EQ subtractively. Don't push frequencies up... pull all the other frequencies down.
See if that helps.
Generally agree, subtractive is the first choice when using a graphic EQ, but with judgement. If there's a 1/3 octave dip, it doesn't make sense to pull 3 octaves down to fix it.
More importantly, use the right tools. A graphic equalizer with fixed frequencies is far less useful than a full parametric where you can dial in the exact frequency, Q and gain of the response problem you're trying to fix. When you do that, the subtractive-only approach is less applicable. Often having 5 bands of full parametric beats a 1/3 octave graphic hands down.
Great advice Bigshot and Jaddie. Thank you kindly. Off I blunder into the world of EQ and analogue vs digital, graphic vs parametric, etc... It's funny because before reading this and another thread I would have been straight to the upgrade cables/upgrade sources/upgrade everything I possibly can. No harm in playing with EQ and room layout first.
Edit: Wow I've just noticed that this thread's very own Xnor has created a highly recommended EQ in Foobar. Well that's where I'll start then. Nice work Xnor!
Edited by 367459 - 6/3/13 at 11:03pm
This is speakers, not headphones? If so room layout might have a lot to do with your bass problem. Also, if you have a sub, it might just be a level imbalance between the mains and sub.
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