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ATH-W1000X Appreciation Thread! - Page 77

post #1141 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fearless1 View Post
 

 

Yeppers.

No problem. I chipped a cup on one of my pairs (sold them) when testing my mods vs. unmodded. He had a cup at my house in two days.

 

some one should post that on the first post, for referance 

post #1142 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphic View Post
 

when a song has high pitch, something like drum cymbal or vocals(sorry im not audiophile) it creates noise(harshness), its like if you buy a cheap phone and turn it volume up to very very high it creates that kind of harshness, not clean and smooth like it used to be at all,

 

bass is spot on tho, its just the noise

 

I'm guessing that because i broke the rubber ring and also the yellow foam loosens between its layers due to excessive dynanamt on the driver housing which creates collision with the foam, its just my guess, here is what was going on:

 

when I put right ear wooden cup back after mod I notice it was difficult to fit in, I used force to fit it anyway then I found I can't even secure one of the screws where i realize something is not right, it turned out the yellow foam loosens its layers(I thought its a one piece foam instead of bunch thin layers sandwiched together which is what it really is), now the yellow foam has small gaps between its layers, at least its not intact any more

 

anyway im not a technician I can't say for sure whats causing the noise, my guess is maybe something is vibrating inside, or maybe the rubber ring is not working which creates leakage

 

"Not having the rubber ring WILL create vibration."  At high volume, bass response will vibrates the wooden cups like heck.  I know it's really frustrating and time consuming but go back and double check your work. If you say that the rubber ring is broken, I'm certain that that's where the noise is coming from "wood on metal". 


Edited by dyang - 10/6/13 at 1:18am
post #1143 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by dyang View Post
 

 

"Not having the rubber ring WILL create vibration."  At high volume, bass response will vibrates the wooden cups like heck.  I know it's really frustrating and time consuming but go back and double check your work. If you say that the rubber ring is broken, I'm certain that that's where the noise is coming from "wood on metal". 

 

it was tore apart, then I use the glue from dynamat to glue it back together, so I do still have the rubber ring

 

it might not work properly as before tho

post #1144 of 1883

Did you glue the rubber ring to the metal frame, or did you... glue the wood?

post #1145 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill-P View Post
 

Did you glue the rubber ring to the metal frame, or did you... glue the wood?

 

post #1146 of 1883

I'll upload pics of my right cup

post #1147 of 1883

Well, then I'd suggest gluing the rubber ring to the plastic enclosure.

 

It shouldn't matter if it's not attached to the bottom half rubber ring anymore, but it's pretty important that you have it in between the wood and plastic enclosure.

 

Oh, and the yellow fiberglass material is also pretty important to cleaning up the sound. If you take all that off, you'll lose a lot of control and cleanliness.

post #1148 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill-P View Post
 

Well, then I'd suggest gluing the rubber ring to the plastic enclosure.

 

It shouldn't matter if it's not attached to the bottom half rubber ring anymore, but it's pretty important that you have it in between the wood and plastic enclosure.

 

Oh, and the yellow fiberglass material is also pretty important to cleaning up the sound. If you take all that off, you'll lose a lot of control and cleanliness.

where is the plastic component? I see black metal ring on wood cup and dark brown metal frame showing on the photo,

 

for the yellow foam, I still use it but I think it was compressed/collided with force, i emailed a guy who might sell w1000x parts, still waiting..

post #1149 of 1883

also, I'm guessing that rubber ring might not be a big of deal cuz when you screw the headphone back together its gonna be tight

 

the problem could be on the yellow fiberglass foam, its so light and delicate, a tiny malfunction could create vibrate

 

just guessing .....

post #1150 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphic View Post
 

where is the plastic component? I see black metal ring on wood cup and dark brown metal frame showing on the photo,

 

for the yellow foam, I still use it but I think it was compressed/collided with force, i emailed a guy who might sell w1000x parts, still waiting..

 

It is the weekend, he should get back to you on Monday.

post #1151 of 1883

That dark brown frame is actually plastic. Or at least, I am sure it's not metal.

 

And the "foam" is actually fiberglass. That's why you keep hearing people say " don't breath it in!" If you do, those glass pieces may get to your lungs and start doing some cutting... Definitely not what you want to imagine.

 

And the fiberglass is supposed to be compressed/collided. As far as I know, the compression is there to make sure the material is as dense as can be, and it also exposes a part of the wooden enclosure to open air with the drivers so that a part of the sound can be "colored" with the wood. Basically, it's the default dampening material that Audio Technica uses. And it's damn good as well.

 

In most cases, though, due to resonance, the wood will always have an effect on the sound, whether you dampen it (with fiberglass, Dynamat, etc...) or not. That's why purrin's mod works. Adding in more dampening material (like Dynamat) will reduce that resonance and clean up the sound. But it's impossible to take it away completely for a closed headphone.

 

Theoretically, it may also be possible to put more of that fiberglass in and make the sound even cleaner than with Dynamat. Sadly, I haven't been able to procure a healthy stock of that fiberglass material, so I never got around to that. And then there's the fact that at some point, you'd dampen the enclosure enough that the rest of what you're hearing would just be the base sound signature of the drivers.

 

And personally, I don't quite like the peaky treble that the drivers produce. If I could have it my way, I'd take the drivers of the ES10 and replace the drivers of the W1000X with them instead. Now that'd be quite a project. Maybe I'll obtain a pair of broken W1000X these days and attempt that.

post #1152 of 1883

fresh photos, heartbroken :((

 

 

 

the moment i opened it

 

 

 

this is what happened

 

 

 

where I use dynamat glue to "tape" it

post #1153 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphic View Post
 

fresh photos, heartbroken :((

 

 

 

the moment i opened it

 

 

 

this is what happened

 

 

 

where I use dynamat glue to "tape" it

 

 

 

:[ I'm sorry to see that, I can imagine the tore in half FiberGlass is the source of that sound. I do had my rubber ring spilt in half... but when I screwed it back together it got all snug again

post #1154 of 1883

W1000x are beautiful headphones... I always liked them the most from the whole AT line :-)

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mshenay View Post
 

 

 

 

:[ I'm sorry to see that, I can imagine the tore in half FiberGlass is the source of that sound. I do had my rubber ring spilt in half... but when I screwed it back together it got all snug again

 

So do you think it's possible to repair the graphic's pair?

post #1155 of 1883
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphic View Post
 

fresh photos, heartbroken :((

 

 

 

the moment i opened it

 

 

 

this is what happened

 

 

 

where I use dynamat glue to "tape" it

 

That looks okay to me. Doesn't look like there could have been anything that would cause any undue vibration.

 

The fiberglass would be compressed, and when so, that gap would "magically" vanish. If the fiberglass was loose, then you'd hear more high frequencies.

 

At this point, I'm kind of at a loss as to what's causing that noise you're hearing at high frequencies. I've driven the W1000X to ear splitting levels and I've never heard that harsh treble.

 

Does that happen on both channels or just very specifically on one channel?

 

Oh, and also, when you put the ear cups back on, make sure not to tighten them too much. Doing so would make the ear cups go in too deep, and then you'd block out the openings that are there to tune low frequencies. Blocking those ports is okay, but I don't think that's what you'd want.


Edited by Bill-P - 10/6/13 at 3:22pm
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