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AMB y1 configuration and costs

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Hi.

So, for about 3 months ago I bought the HD650s and built a CK2III. I'm very happy with this combination. The CK2III was also my first project and DIY was way more fun than I expected. I'm now thinking about building a DAC.

I'll probably go with AMB's y1. But I don't really know which configuration to choose. I'll most likely only use the USB input, so I could get the lite version. But working on the enclosure was a pain in the a** last time, so it would be nice to have pre drilled panels. What do you guys think about getting the lite version and then buy the B2-080BK enclosure with pre drilled panels? That way I can upgrade the y1 to a full++ or even a y2 later on, right?
There will be some empty holes in the enclosure, before I upgrade with more stuff in there.

And, do some of you know the approximate costs for the lite, full and full++ version of the y1? If the differences aren't that bad I may aswell go with the full++ version.
post #2 of 18
Not specifically what you want, but it may entertain you. My y1 SPDIF only (inc. wallwart and exc. B2-080 case) cost a smidgen over 50 quid. My y1+y2 inc. wallwart, box, everything cost 135 quid. Note that I am drilling the panels myself; so I have not bought AMBs nice professionally made panels. Not exactly what you asked for, but that may be some food for thought.
post #3 of 18
I spec'd a full++ configuration at $75 not including the psu or enclosure. enclosure is $10, and the pre-drilled panels are $40.
post #4 of 18
great part about the y1 is that you can build a Lite initially, then upgrade it later on, to the Full++ and the y2 (someone might verify this, I'm pretty sure this is true but not dead sure). Plus AMB sells the panels.

Just keep in mind the y1 and y2 require you to do SMD soldering, which is a bit of a different animal from through-hole. Read the online tutorials. Its very easy to lift a pad or kill an IC so bear that in mind.
post #5 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by mewrei View Post
great part about the y1 is that you can build a Lite initially, then upgrade it later on, to the Full++ and the y2 (someone might verify this, I'm pretty sure this is true but not dead sure).
This is true. Very 'upgradable'.
post #6 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by mewrei View Post
great part about the y1 is that you can build a Lite initially, then upgrade it later on, to the Full++ and the y2 (someone might verify this, I'm pretty sure this is true but not dead sure). Plus AMB sells the panels.

Just keep in mind the y1 and y2 require you to do SMD soldering, which is a bit of a different animal from through-hole. Read the online tutorials. Its very easy to lift a pad or kill an IC so bear that in mind.
Do take note that if you plan on breaking the y1 board and connecting them to fit the small case, you'll need to somehow reinforce/reattach the boards when you upgrade to the full++/y2 setup. I don't think it'll be hard, but nonetheless it's something to be aware of.
post #7 of 18
It's actually pretty easy to "stitch" the two boards back together with lead trimmings from the resistors.
Just feed them through the vias along the edge of the boards, line the two boards up and solder them.

Example:



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post #8 of 18
Nice. But how do you connect the contacts necessary? Old floppy data cables?

Nice solid caps there though. Are they worth the premium in the y1 or y2? How about in AMB's amplifier builds?

The y2 plates for the B2 don't look compatible with the y1. I guess it'd be fine to run the box with the panels off, yes?
post #9 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntropic View Post
Nice. But how do you connect the contacts necessary? Old floppy data cables?
See the y1 website Instructions section, about the Full++ config (there is even a pic showing how to connect the two sections with a ribbon cable).

Quote:
The y2 plates for the B2 don't look compatible with the y1. I guess it'd be fine to run the box with the panels off, yes?
You can use the y2 panels for the y1 Full++ config, there will be some cutouts for connectors/switches that don't exist, but if you upgrade to a fully-configured y2 then they would be used.
post #10 of 18
I specc'd my y1 full++ to be $78 not counting shipping, case, or panels.
The y2 with case, panels, y1, everything was roughly $210 w/o shipping. Of course your costs may vary greatly.
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'course you'll save something like $1.75 if your capacitors are a little less boutique, You'll save $48 if you go your own way on the panels. Also keep in mind the optical out is almost $4 all by itself.

I'm going to (try to) order it all at once, but if I weren't, I'd build a Y1++, with y2 panels and box. I'd follow it up with a y2 later.
---
Those while-and-blue capacitors are the defaults, See C6D, C10D, C8U.
"conductive polymer electrolytic low-ESR capacitor 47µF 10V"

at the top right of the photo in MisterX's post, you'll see the audio output capacitors, which appear to be these. I don't know if it's worth it for the $.50 ones as an upgrade, but I like the nice ones with the fancy green colour, which is worth the extra money to me.
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edit: almost forgot, if you plan an building the y2 later, you might consider buying the board and pins, and using it as a passthrough to the other half of the y1. This was suggested by hagak on AMB's forum.
post #11 of 18
Those are actually 470uF coupling caps.
I would not say those green "ones" qualify as any sort of an upgrade, especially when paired with the red box caps.
And.. check page 20 of the Gamma 2 thread for who suggested what and when.
post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterX View Post
It's actually pretty easy to "stitch" the two boards back together with lead trimmings from the resistors.
Just feed them through the vias along the edge of the boards, line the two boards up and solder them.
That's a neat idea! I'll have to remember that if I ever need to do that

Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterX View Post
Those are actually 470uF coupling caps.
I would not say those green "ones" qualify as any sort of an upgrade, especially when paired with the red box caps.
And.. check page 20 of the Gamma 2 thread for who suggested what and when.
If you're aiming for a Christmas color scheme then it would be an upgrade
post #13 of 18
Hmmm, would the Christmas color scheme include red finger nail polish on the ICs to make them sound better?
post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterX View Post
Hmmm, would the Christmas color scheme include red finger nail polish on the ICs to make them sound better?
GREAT IDEA!
post #15 of 18
It kinda sucks because they don't sell the product that inspired the whole nail polish thing any longer.

The Altmann "Tube-o-lator" lacquer

Oh well, red is cooler anyhow.

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