Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Official Audio-gd Sparrow thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Audio-gd Sparrow thread - Page 47

post #691 of 724

Actually I had a similar problem with my ER-4Ps when I first got the amp.

The sound coming out was distorted and surely it was the plug issue (The 1/4 to 1/8 adapter I took with me on my trip to China was not the best and the connection was loose).

This is not the case here as I use a pretty good cable with a good 1/4 plug.

What I did for now is followed EraserXIV's advice and turned windows master and wave volume up to the top and now using the volume knob on the amp.

It is now set about 10:30 and the volume is reasonably loud.

If I turn the volume knob all the way it is deafening which is good :)

The bass is a little too smooth , but I guess the amp still needs burning in before I can fully decide how it behaves with respect to HD600's

These are 300 Ohm after all.

 

post #692 of 724

guys I'm incredibly confused... Please help me out. Right now my source is my laptop with no optical out.. (Asus U30jc-a1).. Can I use the sparrow with my laptop? and how would I use it? What cable would I need? I thought I could use usb line in. The guy I bought it from said that the usb in's are "shoddy" and that it doesn't have a usb line in.. from what I see there is no way it doesn't have a usb- in. 

post #693 of 724

agh! it looks like he probably has the bnc version.. in which case I can't use the amp right?

post #694 of 724

Here is a possible solution to your problem, Turtle Beach makes a USB to digital audio adapter that should provide a work around for your issue.


Edited by KneelJung - 5/30/11 at 5:35am
post #695 of 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

Here is a possible solution to your problem, Turtle Beach makes a USB to digital audio adapter that should provide a work around for your issue.



ehhh, I appreciate it. I think i'm just gonna pick up an Audinst HUD-MX1

post #696 of 724

ended up picking up a version A sparrow with usb after all!


Edited by chrislangley4253 - 5/31/11 at 4:40am
post #697 of 724

anybody have any experience with using the sparrow as a dedicated dac? The builder claims it works just fine on the website

Advice for using Sparrow as a dedicated DAC and DAC + preamp:
    
The Sparrow can have an adapter plugged into the headphone output socket, turn the volume to proper position (volume placed around 10:00 to 14:00) which has proper output level, then Sparrow can output as a DAC or a DAC+preamp.
    Don't worry that the multiple output stages might degrade the sound quality, most DACs or CDPs also have multiple output stages but some of them sound excellent.

 


What kind of an adapter is he talking about there?

post #698 of 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

anybody have any experience with using the sparrow as a dedicated dac? The builder claims it works just fine on the website

Advice for using Sparrow as a dedicated DAC and DAC + preamp:
    
The Sparrow can have an adapter plugged into the headphone output socket, turn the volume to proper position (volume placed around 10:00 to 14:00) which has proper output level, then Sparrow can output as a DAC or a DAC+preamp.
    Don't worry that the multiple output stages might degrade the sound quality, most DACs or CDPs also have multiple output stages but some of them sound excellent.

 


What kind of an adapter is he talking about there?



adapter.jpg

 

post #699 of 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post





adapter.jpg

 


ah! TYVM. That makes sense!

 

post #700 of 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEE TEE View Post

Reporting in...just received the B version with USB, 96K, DIR9001 module, & AD1852 chip as a return/exchange for the A version.

 

I really enjoy the B with the optical input.  I only requested the USB version so it would more closely match the one I borrowed for about 3 weeks.

 

I'm very happy. Could not listen to the A version at all but the humble B is just great with my HF-2's and I couldn't be happier at $160.

 

bigsmile_face.gif

 

 

EDIT:  Update...is a bit brighter than the borrowed (and fully burned-in) B I tried.  Some sibilance- I will let this burn in for 200 hours before seeing where it settles.  Will compare with friend's Sparrow B later too.

Notice any more changes CEE TEE and have you compared the USB to the optical? I remember you stating that you though the optical was better on your friends. How about yours?

 

Chris

 

 

post #701 of 724

My USB/Optical implementation ended up seeming very close in performance. The difference I thought I noticed in the other B version was a little bit of "grain" or a tiny bit of a "rougher quality" to USB over Optical.

 

The difference between the A version and the B version was far greater than the difference between USB/optical implementation.  The A version is so warm that it might be good for clinical or dry cans but for Grados and my taste I only like the B config. noted above. 

 

I don't know how my B is doing now because I gave it to my good friend that bought my B-stock HF-2.

 

(He has given me other electronics equip. so I set him up.)

 

Still think the "B" is good and would like another so I have something that takes USB and I could then lend out the Benchmark if I wanted to... 

Reply
post #702 of 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEE TEE View Post

My USB/Optical implementation ended up seeming very close in performance. The difference I thought I noticed in the other B version was a little bit of "grain" or a tiny bit of a "rougher quality" to USB over Optical.

 

The difference between the A version and the B version was far greater than the difference between USB/optical implementation.  The A version is so warm that it might be good for clinical or dry cans but for Grados and my taste I only like the B config. noted above. 

 

I don't know how my B is doing now because I gave it to my good friend that bought my B-stock HF-2.

 

(He has given me other electronics equip. so I set him up.)

 

Still think the "B" is good and would like another so I have something that takes USB and I could then lend out the Benchmark if I wanted to... 



ah, good to hear there isn't *that* much of a difference. I was a bit worried, seeing as I can only use the USB for a long time. I actually wound up buying a sparrow that I will be able to use to simulate the same as your B version.. With the 1852 and the DIR9001

post #703 of 724

^Really???  You are going to swap stuff out and turn it into a "B"?  Cool.

 

Would dig hearing your impressions between the two!  Will you retain the ability to swap or will it be a solder job?

 

(If soldering, I wouldn't worry- there would not be a reason that I would want it as an "A" version for any reason, personally...)

 

HF-2 and RS-2i liked the unit.

 

High-end guys don't like the Sparrow or the Audio-gd gear.  

 

Maybe with the super-high resolving ability of the UE RM I wouldn't like the Sparrow but with RS2i and HF-2 I dug it and will probably get another.

 

I hear that Eddie Current amps can do wonderful things with higher-end Grados but the $$$ is very high.

 

To me, Sparrow "B" + RS2i used = ~$500 & tons of fun sound.  Tune with pads.

 

Or Sparrow "B" with mods on lower Grados = tons of fun too.  bigsmile_face.gif

Reply
post #704 of 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEE TEE View Post

^Really???  You are going to swap stuff out and turn it into a "B"?  Cool.

 

Would dig hearing your impressions between the two!  Will you retain the ability to swap or will it be a solder job?

 

(If soldering, I wouldn't worry- there would not be a reason that I would want it as an "A" version for any reason, personally...)

 

HF-2 and RS-2i liked the unit.

 

High-end guys don't like the Sparrow or the Audio-gd gear.  

 

Maybe with the super-high resolving ability of the UE RM I wouldn't like the Sparrow but with RS2i and HF-2 I dug it and will probably get another.

 

I hear that Eddie Current amps can do wonderful things with higher-end Grados but the $$$ is very high.

 

To me, Sparrow "B" + RS2i used = ~$500 & tons of fun sound.  Tune with pads.

 

Or Sparrow "B" with mods on lower Grados = tons of fun too.  bigsmile_face.gif



it is actually an A version.. an older one that came with the dir9001 and the ad1852. I'll also be getting a wm8740 with it. That is what you preferred version was right? the older Dir9001 and the older ad1852? I can upgrade to a wm8741, but That would require a small solder job. nothing that wouldn't be reversible though. I'm not sure if I will ever mess with it. Maybe if I hear some praise. I should check out the fun thread. Anyone have a direct link?'

 

-edit-  I realize your preferred version was you friends older B. But this will be the same chips. Should be similar. I would think.. Unless some of the "upgrades" affect it. I wouldn't think so. Then again, I bet you never expected to prefer the B version at all.


Edited by chrislangley4253 - 6/2/11 at 12:55am
post #705 of 724

^Right- tried friend's "B".  Dug it.

 

Did buy a suped-up "A" with the wm8740 in it.  Thought there was "something wrong with the A" because it was too "warm/reverby".

 

Returned "A".  Bought my own "B".

 

Totally liked "B" but gave "B" to a great friend because his HF-2 needed it.

 

Bought Benchmark (non-USB) from different great friend.

 

Would still like to have a "B" with USB on hand (dir9001 and the ad1852)...for its price, versatility, and good sound.

 

Hope you like yours!

Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Official Audio-gd Sparrow thread