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Power switch help, please. Bravo amp.

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
The powerswitch (push button, latching) on my Bravo amp, no longer reliably catches (like 1 in 15 tries). I have resorted to simply unplugging the power cord, but do not like that idea.

I bought a small toggle switch from Radioshack with the intention of removing the old one and adding the toggle, but I can't desolder the pins. There are six of them (which confuses me since it should be a simple DPST switch (connected or not connected for + and -, right?)) and I can't heat them all up at the same time. I have never been able to get desoldering braid to work and don't have pump right now. And I am not sure what the pins are connected to anyhow (no schematic).

So, as a backup solution, I thought about adding an inline switch to the power cable itself, like a lot of lamps have. Still not ideal, but easier for me to understand and to do (potentially).

Has anyone done this? Any suggestions for actual switches (you think cutting one off of an existing cord would be ok? The amp uses a 24v 1a powersupply. Laptop style with a 2.5mm (I think) jack.

Thanks
post #2 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
I bought a small toggle switch from Radioshack with the intention of removing the old one and adding the toggle, but I can't desolder the pins. There are six of them (which confuses me since it should be a simple DPST switch (connected or not connected for + and -, right?)) and I can't heat them all up at the same time. I have never been able to get desoldering braid to work and don't have pump right now. And I am not sure what the pins are connected to anyhow (no schematic).
Most DPST switches are really just DPDT (why build 2 molds?) with a switch that only throws once. As for the desoldering braid, you should just be able to place the braid on the solder joint and put the iron on the braid. I've seen your cable work, this should be very easy. You should be able to figure out the switch with a multimeter after that (by comparing it to the pins where it was located in the PCB).

Your back-up plan works, just splice an inline switch into the original PS.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
What kind of heat do you have to use? I normally have my iron around 400F, but when I use the braid, the braid gets wicked hot without seeming to affect the solder. I guess it is something I need to be able to do if I want to keep advancing my DIY skills.
post #4 of 6
If you have some flux that you can apply to the braid that wil help draw the solder out it helps with the wicking action. The double pole double throw are also are also a bit more complicated than mose think and can be a bear to solder I use them for some guitar things , stacked humbukers into a single coil , or phase in a strat.
post #5 of 6
Don't use the braid on everything at once, work on one lug at a time. If that doesn't work try finding something called Chip Quick. Its used in SMT but you might need it if you can't get the soldering braid to work.

Oh also try adding more solder on the lug terminals then heat it all up and apply the soldering braid.
post #6 of 6
For anything w/more than 2 pins I always use the "solder blob" technique... Like pdupiano says "adding more solder on the lug terminals then heat it all up" till all pins have liquefied solder & pulling on the part or using small thin screwdriver to pry.

Then use soldering braid to clean up all the solder & clear the holes.
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