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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 463

post #6931 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeb Listens View Post
 

Hello Bottleheaders, 

 

Just wondered if any one would be able to suggest a neat and simple way to fasten the top plate to the wooden base that won't compromise the clean look too much?  I was thinking of drilling holes  in the plate and securing to wooden blocks on the inside of the wooden frame, but it seems like it might all get a bit tight under there especially with the possibility of future upgrades.

 

or do you all just leave the plate resting on the frame?  It seems that for removing tubes & headphones it might be useful to have it secured - as well as to deter to curious hands. 

 

Any ideas/experience/pictures would much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

Jeb.

Not sure it is a "clean" enough solution, but I used some leftover pan-head cabinet screws I had sitting around and mounted them just outside the edge of the top plate. I drilled pilot holes and then widened the top of the openings a bit so that the screws would sit countersunk below the outer edge of the base cabinet. Probably used too many with three on each side, one up front and one in the back - but I was taking it to a headphone meet and didn't want to constantly police the changing of headphones and sources.

 

post #6932 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by krikor View Post
 

Not sure it is a "clean" enough solution, but I used some leftover pan-head cabinet screws I had sitting around and mounted them just outside the edge of the top plate. I drilled pilot holes and then widened the top of the openings a bit so that the screws would sit countersunk below the outer edge of the base cabinet. Probably used too many with three on each side, one up front and one in the back - but I was taking it to a headphone meet and didn't want to constantly police the changing of headphones and sources.

 

 

Oh cool, krikor, very nicely done - that's exactly the kind of solution I was looking for!

 

If it's not too much trouble - would you mind showing an over-head closer-up view?  No worries, if not, I think I have the general idea.  

 

I understand about taking it to a headphone meet - good thinking. 

post #6933 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeb Listens View Post
 

 

Oh cool, krikor, very nicely done - that's exactly the kind of solution I was looking for!

 

If it's not too much trouble - would you mind showing an over-head closer-up view?  No worries, if not, I think I have the general idea.  

 

I understand about taking it to a headphone meet - good thinking. 

I'll take a shot when I get a chance today - drinking my coffee and waking up right now :)

post #6934 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeb Listens View Post
 

Hello Bottleheaders, 

 

Just wondered if any one would be able to suggest a neat and simple way to fasten the top plate to the wooden base that won't compromise the clean look too much?  I was thinking of drilling holes  in the plate and securing to wooden blocks on the inside of the wooden frame, but it seems like it might all get a bit tight under there especially with the possibility of future upgrades.

 

or do you all just leave the plate resting on the frame?  It seems that for removing tubes & headphones it might be useful to have it secured - as well as to deter to curious hands. 

 

Any ideas/experience/pictures would much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

Jeb.

 

Another good reason not to secure the plate. If you want to work on the underside to upgrade parts, you can easily remove the tubes, then flip the plate over, of just remove the place and put it on a towel on your workbench. 

post #6935 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeb Listens View Post
 

 

Oh cool, krikor, very nicely done - that's exactly the kind of solution I was looking for!

 

If it's not too much trouble - would you mind showing an over-head closer-up view?  No worries, if not, I think I have the general idea.  

 

I understand about taking it to a headphone meet - good thinking. 

Here you go... 

 

post #6936 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by krikor View Post
 

Here you go... 

 

 

Thanks kirkor - really appreciate that.  It's a nice solution & great job - especially so close to the edge of the wood like that. 

post #6937 of 6945

I recently rebuilt my Crack and here is a pic of the underside. Almost every part has been replaced, or will be replaced for this build. More details can be found on the Bottlehead website at http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=7945.0. Haven't had much time to listen yet, but may spend some quality time with this amp later this week.

 

post #6938 of 6945

Was looking through list of upgrades that could be done on the crack. Did some calculation on the total cost and realized it adds up to nearly 2x as much as the crack with speedball itself if you choose premium parts. With all that upgrade would it even out perform a bottlehead mainline at stock configuration? Any opinions on this?

post #6939 of 6945

 I never heard the Mainline but i doubt it if the Crack can out perform the Mainline,The mainline designed is more refined than the crack but then i'am not an engineer so i could be wrong however the knowledge i learned  from building the  CRACK and S.E.X. is priceless.

post #6940 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by daltonljj View Post
 

Was looking through list of upgrades that could be done on the crack. Did some calculation on the total cost and realized it adds up to nearly 2x as much as the crack with speedball itself if you choose premium parts. With all that upgrade would it even out perform a bottlehead mainline at stock configuration? Any opinions on this?

 

"Outperform"?  In what sense?  The Mainline and the Crack have such different sounds.  Both are excellent amps, but they are so very, very different.

post #6941 of 6945
I'm starting to get an itch for a new project...makes me really want to buy the S.E.X. kit, but as a college student I can't afford it without selling my hot rodded crack...decisions, decisions.

I love how the crack sounds but I'm going to be building some sensitive speakers and I'd love to have the option of utilizing both speakers and headphones on one amp.
post #6942 of 6945

Does anyone here ever have issues with distortion through planars when using the Crack? My T50RPs and a TH500Rp that I have here distort heavily when it is near or passed half volume. My T50RPs sound great with zero issues off other amps at any volume so it cannot be the headphones themselves. My dynamic headphones sound perfect off the Crack though.

post #6943 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

Does anyone here ever have issues with distortion through planars when using the Crack? My T50RPs and a TH500Rp that I have here distort heavily when it is near or passed half volume. My T50RPs sound great with zero issues off other amps at any volume so it cannot be the headphones themselves. My dynamic headphones sound perfect off the Crack though.

Impedence mismatch and the crack doesnt provide the current necessary to really power planar, and/or low impedence headphones.
post #6944 of 6945
Put up a classified for my heavily modded crack if anyone reading this thread is interested but not confident with a soldering iron.

*if this post is against the forum rules I will delete it*
post #6945 of 6945
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachPtheDude View Post

I'm starting to get an itch for a new project...makes me really want to buy the S.E.X. kit, but as a college student I can't afford it without selling my hot rodded crack...decisions, decisions.

I love how the crack sounds but I'm going to be building some sensitive speakers and I'd love to have the option of utilizing both speakers and headphones on one amp.

I have the Crack and the S.E.X. The latter sounds great with my two planars (see sig). But the Crack is meant solely for high impedance cans and is dedicated to my 650's.

 

The S.E.X is definitely for you, and will still drive 650's or the right small monitors, Very flexible and a nice amp. Will save you on tubes too.

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