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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 368

post #5506 of 6332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post

Where in the world are you located?

I'm located in the North Texas (Dallas), USA
post #5507 of 6332

One sold at a high price not too long ago, and now people are jumping on the bus hoping to get the same value, without realizing how much work the original seller put in to his version.

post #5508 of 6332

There was a offer on a little while back that was heavily subscribed but we are not allowed to mention the site or the Head-fi pc brigade come and delete the posts. I expect some Crack owners took advantage after all who wouldn't want to build one again its great fun.


Edited by JamieMcC - 7/12/14 at 10:52am
post #5509 of 6332
Yeah, I am kind of amazed at the number of repeat offenders, I mean returning customers we have for Crack. We have several customers who have bought three or four Crack kits and many who have bought at least two. It seems that some build them to give as gifts and I suppose a few build them to sell. The number of kits sold has gone up tremendously in the past year. So there are bound to be some more around for sale because of the sheer number of them out there. It's interesting to go through various forum threads and find a post here and there where someone built a Crack, sold it, regretted it and bought another Crack kit.

My take has always been that you are only experiencing half the fun if you don't build your own kit. Plus, one that you built yourself always sounds better.
post #5510 of 6332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post
 

 

- pull out the tubes and wrap them up

- thoroughly tape down the plate to the base (something that comes off easily without residue, like painter's tape)

- if there's space, tuck the tubes snugly inside the case somewhere, adding padding and tape as necessary

- wrap the nontransformer end of the amp tightly in bubblewrap or foam packaging stuff, then tape that sucker down (wrap end over end with packaging tape to really secure it in case the painter's tape fails)

- wrap lengthwise over the transformer now with more bubblewrap or foam sheets; if you didn't fit the tubes inside the case, you might tuck them sidewise here next to the transformer then tape 'em down

- gently see if the plate wants to lift off the base. If so, you didn't secure everything tightly enough!

- put the whole thing in a box, stuff all sides and top firmly so it doesn't slide around; I'd even put an extra sheet of thick cardboard on the bottom (I actually used a flap from a broken binder/folder) in case something stupid happens

- photocopy the parts list and put it in there; if USPS screws things up and breaks something, you'll want that in there

- don't forget that power cord

- tape up the box, wrap in paper, tape up some more


The packing suggestions above are generally in accord with what Bottlehead recommends except for one important exception -- the suggestion to "tuck the tubes snugly inside the case somewhere" is exactly the wrong thing to do, because anything stuffed inside the case can press against the wires and components, and break a connection during shipping.

 

Also, BH recommends that, once you have the amp safely wrapped and generously padded, you put it in the shipping box upside-down, with the top of the transformer facing down. They suggest this so that the main plate of the amp is not stressed by the weight of the transformer if the amp is dropped during shipping.


Edited by guildenstern - 7/13/14 at 8:23am
post #5511 of 6332
Quote:
Originally Posted by guildenstern View Post
 


The packing suggestions above are generally in accord with what Bottlehead recommends except for one important exception -- the suggestion to "tuck the tubes snugly inside the case somewhere" is exactly the wrong thing to do, because anything stuffed inside the case can press against the wires and components, and break a connection during shipping.

 

That's a fair point, and I've edited my original post to reflect that. I've shipped three Cracks now and haven't had any issues, but always take extra precaution. (I did have one arrive with broken solder joints, but they weren't anywhere near where I had the tubes)

 

My reasoning was that a glass tube is safer in the case than not... but yeah, care must be taken to not smush against the components inside if you do so. If a postal worker puts a forklift through your packaging, well a broken tube is probably the least of your worries.

post #5512 of 6332

My Crack defected to the east last week.

 

Comrade Crack is now sporting 3x30uf Russian paper in oil capacitors in each channel with 0.056uf Teflon by-

passes.

   

 

 


Edited by JamieMcC - 7/12/14 at 12:24pm
post #5513 of 6332

Did you manage to fit those in the chassis? :blink:

post #5514 of 6332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post
 

Did you manage to fit those in the chassis? :blink:

 

My chassis is a little larger than standard and I have my connections set up for easily swapping output caps its something I have been experimenting with for the last six months. They they will go in a standard chassis but you need to be creative like Geary has been with his Crack in these pics he has even squeezed in a choke! I had been curious about trying them out after seeing his build when he helped me with installing the choke on my Crack

 

 


Edited by JamieMcC - 7/12/14 at 12:27pm
post #5515 of 6332
That's awesome! A Crack Stack
post #5516 of 6332

All this CRACK talking makes me drool i can't wait for mine.:blink:

post #5517 of 6332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc B. View Post

Yeah, I am kind of amazed at the number of repeat offenders, I mean returning customers we have for Crack. We have several customers who have bought three or four Crack kits and many who have bought at least two. It seems that some build them to give as gifts and I suppose a few build them to sell. The number of kits sold has gone up tremendously in the past year. So there are bound to be some more around for sale because of the sheer number of them out there. It's interesting to go through various forum threads and find a post here and there where someone built a Crack, sold it, regretted it and bought another Crack kit.

My take has always been that you are only experiencing half the fun if you don't build your own kit. Plus, one that you built yourself always sounds better.

I really want to try building one, but the cost of tools is turning me away since I would only use it for the Crack build. Too many things could go wrong for me and frankly, I like to buy used equipment. Each piece has a bit of history and its own story.

post #5518 of 6332

  I was like that before but once i experienced building/modifying one of my amp actually all of my amps it's difficult for me to stop now i'am stepping into the CRACK build Territory god only knows what is next for me:biggrin:. IMHO buy the tools and build your own CRACK have fun and enjoy.......:wink:

  Tools i have are Weller soldering station with a spare tip,Desoldering tool,Needle nose Plier,Side/Diagonal Cutter and a Digital Multimeter as far as i remember i paid CAD $150 for all of these tools that is not much compared to paying someone building stuff for you.


Edited by i luvmusic 2 - 7/12/14 at 7:23pm
post #5519 of 6332

To be completely honest, I'm trying to look for good value by buying second hand. Some of the builds I have seen here are spectacular. If nothing works out I will take the plunge and build my own. 

 

Somewhat related, I was looking at a DAC to pair with the Crack and saw that the FiiO E10k just came out. Obviously since it brand new, its tough to make a call, but would it do the Crack justice? Also I noticed that it doesn't have RCA out. Would I be hindering its performance by using a 1/8" to RCA cable to hook it up to the Crack? Otherwise I was thinking about using the JDS labs ODAC w/ RCA out instead. Are there any other good alternatives in the ~$100 range for DACs? I've heard that anything >=$100 will perform about the same. 

 

Thanks!

post #5520 of 6332

What kind of connectivity do you need? I assume just USB since you were considering the E10K?

 

Take a look at the iFi iDSD Nano, that thing has no business sounding as good as it does for that price. They occasionally pop up on the For Sale forum for cheaper and on MusicDirect as 'open-box demos' for around $160.

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