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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 321

post #4801 of 5558

Are these Dayton Audio caps good sounding?  Has anyone used them?

 

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-100-100uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-447

 

i still need to install my speedball and maybe try that 12BH7 I found at work, but I was wondering if these would make a noticeable difference.\

 

Of course listening to The Wall last night on my T1's I'm not sure if I care.  That sounded really good.  And that's with a Fiio E17 doing the DAC duty...

 

Thanks

post #4802 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicbob View Post
 

Very nice job on the Crack, dante. What value is the film bypass cap on the power supply? Whose stepped attenuator are you using?

Bypass cap is a 10uF Solen, attenuator is a Valab 23 step off eBay.

post #4803 of 5558
Very nice, maybe use some hot glue to attach them?
post #4804 of 5558

I could but honestly they're not going anywhere. I soldered them on directly without any extension wire. They don't move and they're not heavy enough to put strain on anything. I'll probably just leave them.

post #4805 of 5558

Fantastic job on your Crack, Dante. But you forgot the most important thing, how does it sound? I'd love to hear your impressions after installing these caps :D

post #4806 of 5558

My SB kit turned up yesterday. Unfortunately, I'm away til Sunday so couldn't make a start on it yet. I was wondering, however, whether I should hold my horses and fit some cap upgrades at the same time? I'm sure I've read that it'd be easier to do all this at once, rather than post-SB.

 

I also have a Blue Velvet pot sitting there which I'm going to fit. Quite exciting! Also, I can finally run that E80CC without worrying it's going to melt my Crack.

post #4807 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by grrraymond View Post
 

My SB kit turned up yesterday. Unfortunately, I'm away til Sunday so couldn't make a start on it yet. I was wondering, however, whether I should hold my horses and fit some cap upgrades at the same time? I'm sure I've read that it'd be easier to do all this at once, rather than post-SB.

 

I also have a Blue Velvet pot sitting there which I'm going to fit. Quite exciting! Also, I can finally run that E80CC without worrying it's going to melt my Crack.

 

Not sure if you have been following a few of us have had good results with this switching resistor mod

 

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,5989.0.html

post #4808 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by grrraymond View Post
 

My SB kit turned up yesterday. Unfortunately, I'm away til Sunday so couldn't make a start on it yet. I was wondering, however, whether I should hold my horses and fit some cap upgrades at the same time? I'm sure I've read that it'd be easier to do all this at once, rather than post-SB.

 

I also have a Blue Velvet pot sitting there which I'm going to fit. Quite exciting! Also, I can finally run that E80CC without worrying it's going to melt my Crack.

 

It's all personal choice, but many people recommended that I should wait so I could hear the differences by doing one at a time. I'm glad I did so I can appreciate each part's own sound, but it's all a matter of preference.

post #4809 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by grrraymond View Post
 

My SB kit turned up yesterday. Unfortunately, I'm away til Sunday so couldn't make a start on it yet. I was wondering, however, whether I should hold my horses and fit some cap upgrades at the same time? I'm sure I've read that it'd be easier to do all this at once, rather than post-SB.

 

I also have a Blue Velvet pot sitting there which I'm going to fit. Quite exciting! Also, I can finally run that E80CC without worrying it's going to melt my Crack.

 

Even if you don't throw in film caps at this point, I would go ahead and pull the old ones and reinstall them out to the sides on fly leads.  Those terminals are tough to access once the speedball is in place and the leads make it very easy to swap caps down the road.

post #4810 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
 

 

Even if you don't throw in film caps at this point, I would go ahead and pull the old ones and reinstall them out to the sides on fly leads.  Those terminals are tough to access once the speedball is in place and the leads make it very easy to swap caps down the road.


How long should the fly leads be?  I am planning on putting my speedball in this weekend and this is very useful advice...

 

Thanks,

post #4811 of 5558

After double stacking some film caps and adding the Triad choke to the Crack I needed a bit more ground clearance and had a bit of a idea to used some wood I had originally glued up to make some headphone stands from, luckily it was just long enough to make a enclosure out of. The wood enclosure is about 20mm deeper than the standard one. 

 

post #4812 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

After double stacking some film caps and adding the Triad choke to the Crack I needed a bit more ground clearance and had a bit of a idea to used some wood I had originally glued up to make some headphone stands from, luckily it was just long enough to make a enclosure out of. The wood enclosure is about 20mm deeper than the standard one. 

 

 

Dayum Jamie!! That's nice. 

post #4813 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serenitty View Post


How long should the fly leads be?  I am planning on putting my speedball in this weekend and this is very useful advice...

Thanks,

Happy to help! I think I used maybe 3.5 to 4 inch leads to start and then trimmed them down a bit when I actually installed my film caps. If you take a look at my default gallery, I know I have a pic in there somewhere of the stock output caps mounted on leads. Posting from my phone though so I can't easily dig up a direct link.
post #4814 of 5558

Anybody know if  C3G tube can be use with Crack?

post #4815 of 5558
Check the bottlehead forums crack page for a list of possi le tubes
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