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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 312

post #4666 of 5558

I ordered mine at the same time also and it is hard to imagine how the Crack can sound better but it does imo with the Speedball. I was a little daunted at starting it and managed to run my Crack for a week without it then curiosity got the better of me in the end it came together quicker and easier than I first thought.

post #4667 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swolern View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

 

It does exactly what it say on the Bottlehead product page

 

" The most immediate thing you will notice is a better sense of clarity. Things get tighter and quicker, bass and midrange get cleaner and more dynamic sounding, and the background gets more quiet. As with all of our upgrade kits, the improvement is easily heard"

I always trust "real people's" experience here on Headfi, more than a product page. If thats what you heard, thanks for your feedback.

 

But don't expect a big day/night difference, IMO.

post #4668 of 5558

The difference is substantial and worthwhile imho, far more than my cap, attenuator and valve changes.

post #4669 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic Rhodes View Post
 

The difference is substantial and worthwhile imho, far more than my cap, attenuator and valve changes.

 

+1 - night and day, no, but easily noticeable? Yes.

 

Perhaps it's like dawn and day instead of night and day ;)

post #4670 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swolern View Post

Just finished Crack build.

SOUNDS AMAZING!!!!!! gs1000.gif  
beerchug.gif
post #4671 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrindingThud View Post

Looks like an RCA rebrand... Is there an octagon on the glass with 6AS7G in it somewhere? Nice looking box too!

No there is no octagon on the glass. The glass doesn't have any marking on it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post

It certainly looks right. I wonder if Mullard made it or if it's a re-badge.

How does it sound compared to your other 6AS7G?

Compared to svetlana winged C 6as7g I consider the mullard to be brighter with really extended highs, vocals are slightly recessed, bass is tight but really punchy, sound stage is quite wide with nice instrument separation, but detail wise I will put the svetlana to be better because of more pronounced mids. RCA 6AS7G is supposed to be warm with thick bass and rolled of treble, and this tube doesn't sound like any of that signature.

post #4672 of 5558

Hello. I received my valab 23 step 50k attenuator and I have a question. The PCB where to wires from rca-s connect is different than the PCB shown in ebay. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-50K-Log-Stereo-/291116689572?pt=AU_Electronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item43c7e828a4

 

And my PCB

 

 

Would the L-R channel and 1-23 number difference change anything? 


Edited by Klots - 4/16/14 at 2:26am
post #4673 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klots View Post
 

Hello. I received my valab 23 step 50k attenuator and I have a question. The PCB where to wires from rca-s connect is different than the PCB shown in ebay. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-50K-Log-Stereo-/291116689572?pt=AU_Electronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item43c7e828a4

 

And my PCB

 

 

Would the L-R channel and 1-23 number difference change anything? 

 

Here is a pic of mine what you cant see in the first pic is the short jumper I have between the left and right ground connections its hidden beneath the black wire. Second pic shows it

 

 

post #4674 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

 

Here is a pic of mine what you cant see in the first pic is the short jumper I have between the left and right ground connections its hidden beneath the black wire. Second pic shows it

 

 

 

+1 Don't forget to connect the two grounds when you rewire you new pot. If you don't, your Crack will go crazy and become potentially dangerous (some caps aren't discharging anymore at shutdown). half of the Crack's grounding is done through the small wire on Jamies's pot.

post #4675 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffivaz View Post
 

 

+1 Don't forget to connect the two grounds when you rewire you new pot. If you don't, your Crack will go crazy and become potentially dangerous (some caps aren't discharging anymore at shutdown). half of the Crack's grounding is done through the small wire on Jamies's pot.

I believe the discharging of the capacitors is faintly audible for about a minute after the power is turned off through the headphones. At least that's what I have always thought the sound I was hearing was?

post #4676 of 5558

I had the experience two weeks ago. I forgot to bridge the two grounds on a new pot. My resistance went haywire, and I still decided I could start the Crack. Bad move. Even after shutdown and power cable removal, I got snapped when touching something inside. Something I never experienced before : the resistors (the 270R in the PS I think) work fine and discharge the caps in a couple of seconds (if your grounding is correct!).

post #4677 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post

Here is a pic of mine what you cant see in the first pic is the short jumper I have between the left and right ground connections its hidden beneath the black wire. Second pic shows it


 

Do you have to modify the top plate to fit the new valab pot?or the existing hole fits?
post #4678 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahdi8 View Post


Do you have to modify the top plate to fit the new valab pot?or the existing hole fits?

 

Yes you need to make the big hole about 1.5 mm larger and the little orientating  hole for the plastic pin needs elongating a dremel made it a quick and easy job of it.

post #4679 of 5558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klots View Post
 

Hello. I received my valab 23 step 50k attenuator and I have a question. The PCB where to wires from rca-s connect is different than the PCB shown in ebay. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-50K-Log-Stereo-/291116689572?pt=AU_Electronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item43c7e828a4

 

And my PCB

 

 

Would the L-R channel and 1-23 number difference change anything? 

 

As several people have already stated, make sure you jump the ground terminals - I have first hand experience with forgetting this little step, and I'll just say that the results can be quite shocking!

post #4680 of 5558

I got delivery today.....

 

And it's a pair of the Mullard CV4003 12AU7. Couldn't be happier with them :)

 

 

 

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