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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 307

post #4591 of 7977

Beautiful job on your build Serenitty!  Even if you do have to polish it frequently, that copper looks amazing!  Any chance you'd be willing to post an "upskirt" shot of your amp so we can see how you mounted everything?

post #4592 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
 

Beautiful job on your build Serenitty!  Even if you do have to polish it frequently, that copper looks amazing!  Any chance you'd be willing to post an "upskirt" shot of your amp so we can see how you mounted everything?

 

Ask and ye shall receive...  This shot is before I fixed the inputs to the jack.  They're backwards here.

post #4593 of 7977

I am planning on buying the hd650 as far I can see the best amp for them is the crack, though the DYI kind of push me away towards Schiit Valhalla, I do know how to solder but that is it, I have no knowledge of voltages and such .. and I get the feeling soldering is not the hole dill, what do you think?

 

Another thing does the crack come in a different frame color or the one I saw was modified and colored by its owner? 

post #4594 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by atraf View Post

I am planning on buying the hd650 as far I can see the best amp for them is the crack, though the DYI kind of push me away towards Schiit Valhalla, I do know how to solder but that is it, I have no knowledge of voltages and such .. and I get the feeling soldering is not the hole dill, what do you think?

Another thing does the crack come in a different frame color or the one I saw was modified and colored by its owner? 

I had the hd650 with the Bifrost and Valhalla, it was certainly a nice combination. I'm now running T1's with the crack I just finished with a FIFO e17 as a Dac. I can't compare the sound, since I sold the 650/schiit combo a while ago.

My soldering skills were limited and my build went very smoothly. Having a good iron helps a lot, and a decent multimeter. The instructions are fantastic, I was able to modify my build based on the pictures.
post #4595 of 7977
Anyone bought the kit lately? If so how long did it take for them to ship it? I think I'm going to take the plunge when I get paid next week.

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post #4596 of 7977

4-6 weeks.

post #4597 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serenitty View Post

 

Ask and ye shall receive...  This shot is before I fixed the inputs to the jack.  They're backwards here.

 

Very nice clean build - thanks for sharing the internal photo!  Plenty of room to add in some film output caps too when you feel like further tweaks. 

post #4598 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeptic View Post

Very nice clean build - thanks for sharing the internal photo!  Plenty of room to add in some film output caps too when you feel like further tweaks. 

I made it taller than stock to be ready for that, speedball next though. I want some time with the amp before I install the speedball.
post #4599 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by diaBoliQu3 View Post
 

Ya, Aune T1. Do you mean squeeze my Aune T1 or squeeze budget for a better DAC?

 

Sorry, I was really unclear. I meant you can still squeeze more performance from the Crack by buying a better DAC in future. I was amazed at how good the Crack sounded with my X-Sabre. I had thought that perhaps the Crack's performance would be a bottleneck to the much higher priced DAC, but it wasn't - there was a noticeable improvement from the Audio-gd NFB-5.2 to the Matrix X-Sabre using the Crack and beyer T1s

post #4600 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serenitty View Post

I made it taller than stock to be ready for that, speedball next though. I want some time with the amp before I install the speedball.

 

Sounds like a good plan to me!  One item to note given your anticipated upgrade path - you may want to plan to install fly leads and move your stock output caps out to the sides before putting in your speedball boards.  Accessing those terminals afterwards is much more of a hassle.  For now though, hope you find great enjoyment in your new amp!   

post #4601 of 7977
Bummer. Was hoping the four week wait was just to cover their butt. Oh well, thanks!

Gives me time to find a good deal on a better soldering iron though.

What kind of solder did you guys use? I have some that is 55% tin 40% lead and 5% silver with rosin core. Worked great for modding xbox's I assume it will suffice, though it is quite old.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTCG View Post

4-6 weeks.


Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
post #4602 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethespiral View Post

Bummer. Was hoping the four week wait was just to cover their butt. Oh well, thanks!

Gives me time to find a good deal on a better soldering iron though.

What kind of solder did you guys use? I have some that is 55% tin 40% lead and 5% silver with rosin core. Worked great for modding xbox's I assume it will suffice, though it is quite old.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I used 63/37 solder, silver solder is not recommended in the manual, apparently it does not flow as well.
post #4603 of 7977

By "flow well" do you mean its wetting ability? It worked awesomely for installing pin headers & wires on a PCB when I last used it, but I have no problem getting a new roll. Stuff is pretty cheap.

 

One last quick question, is a 15w iron going to have enough power? Works good for PCB's but I'd imagine a 30w iron would work a lot better making the connections in the crack. I've used the 15w to also solder 1/4" neutrik connectors onto cable but it took quite a while to get the ground/shield soldered from what I remember.


Edited by ridethespiral - 4/9/14 at 5:14pm
post #4604 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethespiral View Post

By "flow well" do you mean its wetting ability? It worked awesomely for installing pin headers & wires on a PCB when I last used it, but I have no problem getting a new roll. Stuff is pretty cheap.

One last quick question, is a 15w iron going to have enough power? Works good for PCB's but I'd imagine a 30w iron would work a lot better making the connections in the crack. I've used the 15w to also solder 1/4" neutrik connectors onto cable but it took quite a while to get the ground/shield soldered from what I remember.

I used an Ayoue 9378 60 watt soldering station I got from Amazon. Overkill, I think, but very nice.
post #4605 of 7977

Definitely overkill for the time being :P

 

Maybe perhaps once I get more into building DIY guitar/bass pedals I'll invest in a soldering station. I'll definitely get one that is more powerful though. That would be a piss off getting the kit and not being able to solder easily.

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