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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 294

post #4396 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by syphen606 View Post

Thanks!

Hadn't really thought about it. Its rustoleum primer + paint. It is a textured finish and not a gloss. It hasn't seem to shown finger prints or scuffs yet. What do you recommend?

Just let it harden for a while. It seems to take maybe a week for most rattle can paint paint to polymerize enough to be resistant to scratches and scuffs. Some types of paint can be accelerated a little by heating, but I have never had much luck with that.
post #4397 of 8126

is there any benefit to adding a coat or two of clearcoat?

post #4398 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheneric View Post


thank you! went to Michaels and found it on clearance!!
 

Lucky find!

post #4399 of 8126

Attempting to organizing all of my parts right now. I think I may be missing one and I'm having some difficulty distinguishing the differences between some of the resistors and capacitors. Is there any kind of visual guide out there to see what these parts are so I can tell the difference?

post #4400 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgreen16 View Post

is there any benefit to adding a coat or two of clearcoat?

I certainly won't hurt to lay clear over a finish that it is compatible with. But I suspect when people ask about clear coat they are probably thinking of the very rugged type used on cars. That stuff is urethane and while available in rattle cans it is about $30 a can and has a very limited pot life once activated.
post #4401 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
 

Attempting to organizing all of my parts right now. I think I may be missing one and I'm having some difficulty distinguishing the differences between some of the resistors and capacitors. Is there any kind of visual guide out there to see what these parts are so I can tell the difference?

 

Alright, I am definitely missing the #8 solder tab. I'm hoping I can just run to any competent electronics store and they'll have one because I really would hate to wait to have it shipped out to me. That's one issue.

 

The other issue is just my stupidity. I can tell the difference in the capacitors, but I have no idea how to read these resistors. Yeah, I tried to look up how to online, but it's just not making sense with these.

 

 

I'm guessing the one on the right is the 270KΩ 1W metal film resistor since there should only be one. Now I just need to figure out which between the two on the left and two in the center is the 22.1KΩ 3/4W metal film resistor and 2.49KΩ 1/4W metal film resistors.

 

Help!

post #4402 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post

Alright, I am definitely missing the #8 solder tab. I'm hoping I can just run to any competent electronics store and they'll have one because I really would hate to wait to have it shipped out to me. That's one issue.

The other issue is just my stupidity. I can tell the difference in the capacitors, but I have no idea how to read these resistors. Yeah, I tried to look up how to online, but it's just not making sense with these.




I'm guessing the one on the right is the 270KΩ 1W metal film resistor since there should only be one. Now I just need to figure out which between the two on the left and two in the center is the 22.1KΩ 3/4W metal film resistor and 2.49KΩ 1/4W metal film resistors.

Help!
Unnecessary really. Just go by the pictures. You should be able to discern it.
post #4403 of 8126

Well, I used a resistor calculator and found the left two (red-red-brown-red-brown) to be the 22.1KΩ resistors. I'm guessing that means the center two are the 2.49KΩ resistors.

 

Ugh, still missing that #8 solder tab, which is unfortunately used at the very beginning of the build. Which means I'm stuck right now. Radio Shack? Fry's? I'm hoping someone has it because I don't really want to wait a couple of days to move on.

post #4404 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc B. View Post


Just let it harden for a while. It seems to take maybe a week for most rattle can paint paint to polymerize enough to be resistant to scratches and scuffs. Some types of paint can be accelerated a little by heating, but I have never had much luck with that.

 

I've noticed that its not 'fully cured' yet. When the amp is hot, its not tacky to the point of leaving finger prints but the plate doesn't feel fully dry. At room temp its a nice smooth happy finish. It does seem to be getting better as you suggested. 

post #4405 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by syphen606 View Post
 

 

Thanks!

 

Hadn't really thought about it. Its rustoleum primer + paint. It is a textured finish and not a gloss. It hasn't seem to shown finger prints or scuffs yet. What do you recommend?

Np

 

I don't know was wondering what you were going to use. I originally spray painted my metal plate gloss black, that left scuffs then i sanded it down and went with matt black, matt black didn't turn out so good so I went with gloss black 3M vinyl for car's and left it since but no clue if it can stand the heat. It's a second Crack kit I haven't finished building in a long time now as I've been focusing on the aesthetic side then completing the amp. Was going to powdercoat but very costly here for small job lots.

post #4406 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc B. View Post


Just let it harden for a while. It seems to take maybe a week for most rattle can paint paint to polymerize enough to be resistant to scratches and scuffs. Some types of paint can be accelerated a little by heating, but I have never had much luck with that.

Hi Doc, I sent you a PM regarding tube. Is there any solution for this?

post #4407 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post

Unnecessary really. Just go by the pictures. You should be able to discern it.

I might use an ohmmeter, but maybe that's cheating?
post #4408 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by diaBoliQu3 View Post

Hi Doc, I sent you a PM regarding tube. Is there any solution for this?

replacementparts@bottlehead.com is the best way to get a replacement part. I am not always at the office and not very consistent in my checking of my PMs, but a request sent to that address will go right to the person who handles replacements. We operate Monday thru Friday, so those emails are checked first thing Monday morning and the parts shipped right away.
post #4409 of 8126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc B. View Post


replacementparts@bottlehead.com is the best way to get a replacement part. I am not always at the office and not very consistent in my checking of my PMs, but a request sent to that address will go right to the person who handles replacements. We operate Monday thru Friday, so those emails are checked first thing Monday morning and the parts shipped right away.

Thank you. I don't know tho email who so I PM your head-fi profile hopefully you can direct me where to go.

 

Thanks again sir.

post #4410 of 8126

Welp, got it all put together in one day. This included staining the wood and painting. I think it came out ok. The only thing that's missing is connecting the ground from the AC to the chassis because the #8 solder tab was missing. Sent over an email and hopefully they can get that part over as soon as possible. Tried to go find it from some local stores today, but no one carried anything like it. I'll try a couple more tomorrow and then, hopefully, I'll be able to test it.

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