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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 290

post #4336 of 8079

It looks like the microphonics are often associated with the power tube. In my Crack, I tried three different 6AS7G (RCA, Svetlana and Rogers), all were noisy, even after some break in. I finally settle back to a rugged RCA 6080 with RCA or Telefunken 12AU7. I can dance next the crack (which happens so often with the hd650), no ringing!


Edited by ffivaz - 3/24/14 at 1:08pm
post #4337 of 8079

It was the tube. Thanks guys!!

 

:beerchug:

post #4338 of 8079
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTCG View Post
 

It was the tube. Thanks guys!!

 

:beerchug:

I was reading the thread and it was making my heart race haha.  I thought it was going to be my fault lol.  Glad it is working well.  

post #4339 of 8079

If anyone is looking for a crack built with professionalism and care...see zashzoomin!! 

post #4340 of 8079

Received some new candles today and I'm just blown away how good 6085 E80CC/Amperex (PQ) is ,I have vintage 6922 and Bugle Boy Treble Clef ecc88 but this was unexpected ,it brought a lot of clean/sparkly highs to my 650s and the bass is just hard to explain ...highly recommend this tubes 

P.S. thanks Jamie for  E80CC recommendation :atsmile: 


Edited by spacequeen7 - 3/24/14 at 6:31pm
post #4341 of 8079

I got a Brimar E80CC this morning (had to pick it up from Post Office at 6am so I could try it out before work!) to pair with my TS 5998.

 

My initial impressions were "HOLY F***ING GAIN" and "BASS".

 

They seem more 'upfront' than the Mullard ECC82 I had been using and they brought back the bass which had been a little 'absent'/classy once I'd replaced the the Mullard 6080 with the 5998.

 

I understand that the Tesla or Tungsram are the ones to go for with this tube, and I read somewhere that the Brimar might not even be a true E80CC, but just wanted to share my initial impressions. I'll do a few experiments this evening.

 

Summative thoughts on Crack (no SB) tubes at the moment:

 

Mullard 6080 & Mullard ECC82 are a great tubey combo, liquid, enveloping, everything sounds great with them.

 

Comparatively, the TS 5998 can seem a tiny bit clean in the bass department and a little in your face with the upper mids but it's so dynamic and engaging, I wouldn't have it any other way. Hopefully once the E80CC is burned in, it will make the perfect pairing, get a bit of meat in the bass. The only thing is that I couldn't have the volume past 9 o clock with these two, they're both so powerful.

 

Would a step attenuator improve the controlled gain side of things?

post #4342 of 8079
Quote:
Originally Posted by grrraymond View Post
 

I got a Brimar E80CC this morning (had to pick it up from Post Office at 6am so I could try it out before work!) to pair with my TS 5998.

 

My initial impressions were "HOLY F***ING GAIN" and "BASS".

 

They seem more 'upfront' than the Mullard ECC82 I had been using and they brought back the bass which had been a little 'absent'/classy once I'd replaced the the Mullard 6080 with the 5998.

 

I understand that the Tesla or Tungsram are the ones to go for with this tube, and I read somewhere that the Brimar might not even be a true E80CC, but just wanted to share my initial impressions. I'll do a few experiments this evening.

 

Summative thoughts on Crack (no SB) tubes at the moment:

 

Mullard 6080 & Mullard ECC82 are a great tubey combo, liquid, enveloping, everything sounds great with them.

 

Comparatively, the TS 5998 can seem a tiny bit clean in the bass department and a little in your face with the upper mids but it's so dynamic and engaging, I wouldn't have it any other way. Hopefully once the E80CC is burned in, it will make the perfect pairing, get a bit of meat in the bass. The only thing is that I couldn't have the volume past 9 o clock with these two, they're both so powerful.

 

Would a step attenuator improve the controlled gain side of things?


My E80cc took a few days to burn in it was a nos tube and the sibilance at first was grimacing. I nearly didn't listen to it again, but was burning in some caps with a old 6080 and running the Crack for around 16hrs a day (I still am) so I left the E80cc in. Every day I came home from work and had a listen it got better and also works well with all my power tubes. Its one of my favourite input tubes now tied at the spot with the Mullard cv4003.

 

Not sure about your last question perhaps someone else will chime in.

 

Just sold my Mullard ecc82's, but will hang on to my Mullard cv4003 and 6080.


Edited by JamieMcC - 3/25/14 at 9:48am
post #4343 of 8079

It's confirmed the stock 6080 tube given by BH is bad tube. Someone here ever get free tube replacement? I borrow someone's Sylvania 6080, and no popping sound. According to the guy that assembled my amp, stock tube voltage rises to 28v while the loaned tube only rise to 13v. Now, hunting for tubes... I hate tube amp, the rolling force is stronger than gravity.


Edited by diaBoliQu3 - 3/25/14 at 6:32am
post #4344 of 8079
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 


My E80cc took a few days to burn in it was a nos tube and the sibilance at first was grimacing. I nearly didn't listen to it again, but was burning in some caps with a old 6080 and running the Crack for around 16hrs a day (I still am) so I left the E80cc in. Every day I came home from work and had a listen it got better and also works well with all my power tubes. Its one of my favourite input tubes now tied at the spot with the Mullard cv4003.

 

 

Ah, that's interesting, thanks. This is my first actually New OS tube, boxed and with pin protector, shiny as you like. I'll give it a proper good burn in over the next few days and see if/how it develops.

 

Obviously, I also have to look into that cv4003 now! A blessing and a curse...

 

Also, and this is something I've seen mentioned in plenty of places, I tend not to leave my Crack to warm up for very long - does it make much difference? When I say not long, I mean, I'm normally eagerly waiting for it to output any volume at all...I'm going to switch it on as soon as I get in and try to leave it for an hour before listening tonight, I want to see what the difference really is. 

post #4345 of 8079
Quote:
Originally Posted by grrraymond View Post
 

 

Ah, that's interesting, thanks. This is my first actually New OS tube, boxed and with pin protector, shiny as you like. I'll give it a proper good burn in over the next few days and see if/how it develops.

 

Obviously, I also have to look into that cv4003 now! A blessing and a curse...

 

Also, and this is something I've seen mentioned in plenty of places, I tend not to leave my Crack to warm up for very long - does it make much difference? When I say not long, I mean, I'm normally eagerly waiting for it to output any volume at all...I'm going to switch it on as soon as I get in and try to leave it for an hour before listening tonight, I want to see what the difference really is. 

 

Grrraymond the consensus on the Bottlehead forum is that the E80cc needs to be used in conjunction with the speedball upgrade. I don't know what effect it will have running it without the speedball, it would be a good idea to check on the Bottlehead forum see if its ok to  do so. You have yet to fit the speedball havn't you?


Edited by JamieMcC - 3/25/14 at 10:01am
post #4346 of 8079

That's right, Jamie. Still on stock Crack.

 

I've just left it to warm up for an hour before reading this post, and I have to say, I do notice the difference. Think I'd better put it to one side til I get the SB in there, though...At least it's there for when the day comes.

 

Don't want to risk nuking my Crack at this point.

 

 

Edit: Which is a shame since it's definitely on a level above the Mullard ECC82 now I've rolled that back in :(

 

I need to just bite the bullet on SB now. I think I'm just concerned about having the necessary skills and not wanting to balls up what's already the best I've ever heard.


Edited by grrraymond - 3/25/14 at 11:14am
post #4347 of 8079
Quote:
Originally Posted by grrraymond View Post
 

That's right, Jamie. Still on stock Crack.

 

I've just left it to warm up for an hour before reading this post, and I have to say, I do notice the difference. Think I'd better put it to one side til I get the SB in there, though...At least it's there for when the day comes.

 

Don't want to risk nuking my Crack at this point.

 

 

Edit: Which is a shame since it's definitely on a level above the Mullard ECC82 now I've rolled that back in :(

 

I need to just bite the bullet on SB now. I think I'm just concerned about having the necessary skills and not wanting to balls up what's already the best I've ever heard.

 

You'll be fine, grrraymond. If you can build the Crack, you can do the Speedball and the best you've heard will get even better!

post #4348 of 8079

I borrowed a stock crack for a week and thought it was perfect...why would anyone want to change a thing about the wonderful stock crack. Now I have the speedball upgrade and there is no way that I could go back to stock. 

 

As to whether or not you can handle the upgrade, that is up to you. 

post #4349 of 8079

Just make sure you watch a youtube clip on through hole soldering first and you will be fine.  In essence, after stuffing the component into the board, flip the board over, and hold the tip of your solder against the crack between the lead and the hole.  Then bring in your iron to touch and melt the solder at that point and hold your iron in that spot.  (The tiny amount of solder you just melted will let your iron conduct heat into the lead much more efficiently.)  Then, pull the solder away from your iron and apply/flow it on to the joint from the opposite side of the lead from where your iron is touching.  This will cause the solder to nicely wick around the lead, filling the hole and avoiding the irritating phenomena of the solder sticking to your iron and refusing to go down into the hole and lead.

 

Once you master this, the hardest part of the speedball is making sure you don't damage any of the connections (in particular the led's) on your A socket when you screw in the nylon standoffs that hold the speedball boards.

post #4350 of 8079
Quote:
Originally Posted by dxanex View Post
 

^Lol yeah! :D Spent a good chunk of the weekend burning it in!

 

Matt: yes, I paired it with the TS 5998..great results

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post
 

 

You got it too, Dave?

 

 

 

I recently bought Chatham/TS 5998 from a fellow Head-fier and ordered a Tesla ECC802S from Ebay. How long does it take to burn them in? I have a Crack Amp with no speedball upgrade yet. 


Edited by ramaka - 3/25/14 at 2:14pm
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