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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 286

post #4276 of 7977

I'm pretty amazed how different some tubes can sound from one amp to another ..I have few 6SN7 tubes and two that stand out and worth mentioning is Tung Sol 6SN7 WGTA (1962 black plates) -this tube opened up about 50% (soundstage) in comparison to my other amp and became very airy , the other one is TUNG SOL 6SN7GT (1942 ) - on DV336SE this tube is all about the detail but on crack the vocals are in your face and the mids are insane ,I would recommend giving 6SN7 to 12AU7 socket converter a try

 

 

EDIT; three more tubes  worth looking in to 

soundstage beast 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400659651920?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

liquid mids and tight bass

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171253161671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

if your 650s need that sparkle on top

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151001685074?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648


Edited by spacequeen7 - 3/17/14 at 10:03am
post #4277 of 7977

I'm interested in the Tesla. 

post #4278 of 7977

^^ my favorite small tube 

post #4279 of 7977

Your going to love the E80cc when you try it. 

 

I have been offloading my 12au7's only keeping a Mullard 4003 box plate, Tung-sol 12au7 Black glass and  a early Tung-sol jtl. 

 

:popcorn: 


Edited by JamieMcC - 3/17/14 at 10:19am
post #4280 of 7977

I'm dying for Bendix and Mullard (power) if you see some on the other side of the pond please PM me 


Edited by spacequeen7 - 3/17/14 at 10:25am
post #4281 of 7977
Originally Posted by MattTCG View Post
 

I'm interested in the Tesla. 

I have the Tesla (mine has yellow printing, though).. Ironically enough.. I'm using it now.  It takes a while to burn in.. once it does.

 

WOW.

 

Easily one of the most refined, dynamic, thoroughly engaging tubes I've heard in the Crack.  Its one of my favorite 12AU7s... a terrific tube that does very little, if anything, wrong.  Refinement is the word that keeps coming to mind as I listen.  Terrific soundstage and the mids are gorgeous.  Very clear and tonally pure.  In terms of impressiveness, it's up there with the Ken Rad 12AU7 black plates (for me).

 


Edited by FlySweep - 3/17/14 at 11:08am
post #4282 of 7977

Hello everyone just a question regarding building the crack.  How many of you build the crack while using the multimeter to check the voltage? I have place my order for the crack, but last time I use a multimeter smoke came out.  If it is not must have item I will try to avoid it.  Thanks for any feedback. 

post #4283 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by prtuc2 View Post
 

Hello everyone just a question regarding building the crack.  How many of you build the crack while using the multimeter to check the voltage? I have place my order for the crack, but last time I use a multimeter smoke came out.  If it is not must have item I will try to avoid it.  Thanks for any feedback. 


It is a must have.

post #4284 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacequeen7 View Post
 

I'm dying for Bendix and Mullard (power) if you see some on the other side of the pond please PM me 

Like to try the Bendix 6080 myself, just been outbid on one that's listed on ebay at the moment.  When shipping from the US to the UK it normally adds $15-$20  I have noticed a lot of sellers using the ebay global shipping service which seems to be a real rip off expecting you to pre pay import duty when none is required below a certain threshold this with their expensive shipping costs ends up near doubling the cost of a tube which is in the $10-$30 range  

post #4285 of 7977
About to take the maiden voyage with stock tubes for now.
post #4286 of 7977
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

Your going to love the E80cc when you try it. 

 

I have been offloading my 12au7's only keeping a Mullard 4003 box plate, Tung-sol 12au7 Black glass and  a early Tung-sol jtl. 

 

:popcorn: 

Jamie..

I don't know if you have a 6F8G-to-12AU7 adapter, but if you do.. have you heard a Mullard 6F8G in your Crack?  Absolutely wonderful.  That lovely Mullard sound.. but tighter, clearer, more spacious, faster (and with better freq. bandwidth) than I've heard from most of the Mullard 12AU7 variants.  I bet it might be easier to come across on your side of the pond, too.  I sense it would be terrific with the T1.


Edited by FlySweep - 3/17/14 at 11:34am
post #4287 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post
 


It is a must have.

Thanks, will have to pick up a decent quality multimeter and read the instructions carefully this time.

post #4288 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTCG View Post

About to take the maiden voyage with stock tubes for now.

 

Neat :beerchug:  tell me some more about your rca inter-connects they look rather good to..

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post
 

Jamie..

I don't know if you have a 6F8G-to-12AU7 adapter, but if you do.. have you heard a Mullard 6F8G in your Crack?  Absolutely wonderful.  That lovely Mullard sound.. but tighter, clearer, more spacious, faster (and with better freq. bandwidth) than I've heard from most of the Mullard 12AU7 variants.  I bet it might be easier to come across on your side of the pond, too.  I sense it would be terrific with the T1.

 

I didn't know you could do that will, look into it thanks for the heads up. From your description it sound very much in the same vain as the E80cc.

post #4289 of 7977

^^ The IC's are called Timbre by Kimber Kables. I like them because the connection itself is short and doesn't protrude too much when used with crack. 

 

I've been listening to the lyr with the 650's for a few weeks, so this first listen gives me the best opportunity to hear the difference between amps. Even on stock tubes, the crack with sb is appreciably better than the lyr. The sound is more natural and layered. The tonality of voices and instruments is spot on and lifelike. This is why I listen to music with hp's...for this kind of experience. You'd spend many thousands to get a speaker setup that sounded like this. 

post #4290 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by prtuc2 View Post
 

Thanks, will have to pick up a decent quality multimeter and read the instructions carefully this time.

 

you don't actually need to spend a ton on a multimeter.  the cheap ones are fairly good these days.  just get one that has auto-ranging.  ones that don't are annoying to use.  also, if you can find one in your price range with capacitance measurement, that can be handy too, but resistance and voltage are the two main things you'll probably be measuring.  (and for this build, probably just resistance so you don't get your resistor codes wrong)

 

(and this is coming from a guy who has a $400 Fluke portable multimeter and a $1000 Agilent Bench Multimeter)

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