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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 283

post #4231 of 8083
Quote:
Originally Posted by bleudeciel16 View Post
 

Does the top plate get very hot?

 

I ask because I happen to have a replicator 2 3d printer, which I believe should have a big enough print area to print a case for my crack amp (which should be here in a few weeks).

 

UPDATE:  sorry, i wasn't very clear.  the reason I ask why it's hot is because the PLA plastic that the printer prints has a fairly low melting temperature.  different colors have different melting temps.  (clear/white melts at a really low temp, and black has the highest melting point)  didn't want to print a case (would take all day at a high resolution setting) only to have the hot tubes heat up the plate, causing the casing to melt lol

 

also, if i go through with this and it turns out, i'll post the sketch up on thingiverse so others can print it out if they choose they want to do plastic over the wood.  (though I think plastic will look cheap compared to the wood which can be stained or painted)

 

I don't know the answer as my Crack isn't assembled yet, but looking at the resistors that it comes with (5W), there will be some good heat being thrown out. The top plate will help as a bit of a heat sink.

post #4232 of 8083
Quote:
Originally Posted by bleudeciel16 View Post
 

Does the top plate get very hot?

 

I ask because I happen to have a replicator 2 3d printer, which I believe should have a big enough print area to print a case for my crack amp (which should be here in a few weeks).

 

UPDATE:  sorry, i wasn't very clear.  the reason I ask why it's hot is because the PLA plastic that the printer prints has a fairly low melting temperature.  different colors have different melting temps.  (clear/white melts at a really low temp, and black has the highest melting point)  didn't want to print a case (would take all day at a high resolution setting) only to have the hot tubes heat up the plate, causing the casing to melt lol

 

also, if i go through with this and it turns out, i'll post the sketch up on thingiverse so others can print it out if they choose they want to do plastic over the wood.  (though I think plastic will look cheap compared to the wood which can be stained or painted)

 

The question I'd like to ask is whether the case will be printed as one solid object, or in separate parts. If in separate parts, you may be able to shape another material that could isolate the heat of the plate from the case.

 

And "cheap" looking plastic is all about the finish. With some careful sanding, priming, and paint finishing, you can achieve almost all sorts of surface finishing (minus stained wood effects). That's talking about days of work though

post #4233 of 8083

3D printing is a neat idea you could have a honeycomb or lattice type structure so would have great ventilation and also use much less filament in the printing even add in a different colour to create some text with in the structure.


Edited by JamieMcC - 3/14/14 at 10:02am
post #4234 of 8083

Actually the same amount of heat is generated. It's just radiated differently, as the resistors in the stock kit are close to the chassis panel and the heat sinks of the Speeball upgrade are farther away. So the temperature gradient is a little more steep around the cooling slots on the stock version. It's probably more useful to measure the panel temp at the edge where it contacts the base.

post #4235 of 8083

I have a question for those who have a crack plus another amp. I also have the lyr and wondered if I could use the preamp out to connect to the crack. Or would this alter the sound too much. It would be nice not to have to plug/unplug I/C's between the dac and amp each time that I want to switch. Is there a better solution?

post #4236 of 8083
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTCG View Post

I have a question for those who have a crack plus another amp. I also have the lyr and wondered if I could use the preamp out to connect to the crack. Or would this alter the sound too much. It would be nice not to have to plug/unplug I/C's between the dac and amp each time that I want to switch. Is there a better solution?
Quickie+Crack is a great combo for both HD800 and K812. You can hear it at the Charlotte meet if you're coming.
post #4237 of 8083

^^ I'm sure hoping to make it to the meet. Yes, I'd love to hear those two together. 

post #4238 of 8083

Hi Matt - 

 

Here's my solution with ODAC to Crack and to Audio-gd Fun:

 

 

Blue goes to FUN ,and grey goes to the Crack.  Works great.

 

Ron

post #4239 of 8083

Thanks Ron. You did you get the adapters?

 

thanks...

post #4240 of 8083

In my case, I got these originally with a subwoofer cable, and you would use the splitter sub side to take the single LFE output to the L + R inputs on a sub.  There is a really short cable that came with it as well.  I had two subs, so I had two of these. Years later, I went to a component subwoofer, dual passive subs powered by a pro audio amp, and no longer needed a splitter, there is a feature in the amp to split the signal internally to both channels.  It just hit me the other day to put these to use again on the ODAC.  

 

I did a quick google search, I see several devices that look similar. Hey, when is the Charlotte meet?

 

RonO

post #4241 of 8083
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonO View Post
 

In my case, I got these originally with a subwoofer cable, and you would use the splitter sub side to take the single LFE output to the L + R inputs on a sub.  There is a really short cable that came with it as well.  I had two subs, so I had two of these. Years later, I went to a component subwoofer, dual passive subs powered by a pro audio amp, and no longer needed a splitter, there is a feature in the amp to split the signal internally to both channels.  It just hit me the other day to put these to use again on the ODAC.  

 

I did a quick google search, I see several devices that look similar. Hey, when is the Charlotte meet?

 

RonO

http://www.head-fi.org/t/696198/charlotte-nc-meet-april-19th-2014

post #4242 of 8083

Tube question. I recently purchased a backup TS 5998. The backup says, "Tung Sol Chatham." The Original just says Tun Sol. Numbers under 5998 on the backup are 3226040 and the original 3225740-3.

 

Any help is appreciated. 

post #4243 of 8083
I had Chatham and it was working without problem ans sounded great
post #4244 of 8083

Matt - 

 

Here's a link: http://www.tubemaze.info/tung-sol-23995998-top-getter/

 

Looks like all the 5998's were made by tung sol, but some were sold under other badges, like the chatham lablel as 2399.  I tried 5998's over a  year back and could not get one without a hum in it. The third one they sent to me was a 2399.  I settled on a 6as7ga, which are usually about $10, except when I want the Crack to sound like a Marshall stack, and run the full Russian tube set, and plug in the Rammstein.

 

RonO

post #4245 of 8083

So far I have come across three different types of 5998 with the domino black or grey plates under four different brands

 

Types

 

Top getter

Top and side Getter

Clear top

 

Brand

 

Tung Sol

Chatham

Heinz and Kaufman

Arcturus

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