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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 282

post #4216 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobLee89 View Post

The DAC question is constantly haunting me: Do I change into an asynch USB DAC which uses a high speed wizard kaboom chip with 32 bit/192 trumpet ability, or shall I just DIY a USB isolator for my ODAC?

But as far as I've read, the amplifier section is where most of the change happens. I can't go wrong with a Crack (pending funding and willpower) connected to my HD650.
DAC makes a bigger difference once you have a very transparent amp and headphone. Think of each component in your chain as a glass window. If the window closest to you is dirty, it doesn't matter if the other windows further up the chain are clean. IMO the Crack isn't the last word on transparency, but more musicality oriented.
post #4217 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post


DAC makes a bigger difference once you have a very transparent amp and headphone. Think of each component in your chain as a glass window. If the window closest to you is dirty, it doesn't matter if the other windows further up the chain are clean. IMO the Crack isn't the last word on transparency, but more musicality oriented.

 

Thanks for the analogy. It's the battle of the "USB" DAC's that confuses me far more so than anything else.

 

However the de-railed ranting is over, and since I am already happy with how my HD650's perform (even with the Objective stack) I am sure to enjoy the changes offered by the crack. DAC's can just sit at a "no need to care" corner of my brain until I can no longer modify the crack.

post #4218 of 7978

I haven't followed the info on the bottlehead dac. Can anyone share an update or link?

 

thanks...

post #4219 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTCG View Post
 

I haven't followed the info on the bottlehead dac. Can anyone share an update or link?

 

thanks...

 

I don't think there is one. Unless Doc B is thinking otherwise.

 

the mention of DACs was added once the discussion of comparing headphones came into the equation.

post #4220 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post


P.S. just personal opinion, but Crackphone has a better ring to it for me tongue.gif

 

Following a completely logical naming derivation... bottleheadphone... crackheadphone... crackphone... crackcan... the kraken? :rolleyes:

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post


DAC makes a bigger difference once you have a very transparent amp and headphone. Think of each component in your chain as a glass window. If the window closest to you is dirty, it doesn't matter if the other windows further up the chain are clean. IMO the Crack isn't the last word on transparency, but more musicality oriented.

 

Though as corollary, in my opinion DACs hit diminishing returns far far sooner.

post #4221 of 7978
I disagree. I'm on my phone so linking is a pain, but check out my DAC upgrade edit at the end of the Crack review on the Bottlehead Comparison Thread. It really opened my eyes (ears?).

Also, according to the Bottlehead forum thread, their DAC is approaching a final prototype build which I think will represent the production design. No news on release date, but it's sounding VERY interesting!
post #4222 of 7978

received my second socket today and both work flawlessly ...I must be very lucky I guess 

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300980566962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320659633166?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

EDIT; there might be very slight hum (@ very high gain) on the second one 


Edited by spacequeen7 - 3/12/14 at 2:30pm
post #4223 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post

Also, according to the Bottlehead forum thread, their DAC is approaching a final prototype build which I think will represent the production design. No news on release date, but it's sounding VERY interesting!

 

Yup, I believe Doc indicated that John Swenson actually has the first production board up and run now.  So excited for this!

post #4224 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
 

 

Yup, I believe Doc indicated that John Swenson actually has the first production board up and run now.  So excited for this!

 

I shall continue to scratch my head at DACs until people stop over-zealously defending the ODAC.

 

Though a DIY one by Bottlehead is something I'm definitely interested in. Anyone with an idea how fidgety it could be compared to the Pupdac? - another DAC I'm looking into -

post #4225 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacequeen7 View Post
 

received my second socket today and both work flawlessly ...I must be very lucky I guess 

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300980566962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320659633166?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

EDIT; there might be very slight hum (@ very high gain) on the second one 


I have the first socket, working flawlessly till now (touch wood)

post #4226 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobLee89 View Post
 

 

I shall continue to scratch my head at DACs until people stop over-zealously defending the ODAC.

 

Though a DIY one by Bottlehead is something I'm definitely interested in. Anyone with an idea how fidgety it could be compared to the Pupdac? - another DAC I'm looking into -

 

I know the main board will be pre-assembled so no tiny surface mount soldering. Sounds like it'll be similar to other BH kits (i.e. relatively basic soldering with requirements for patience, care, and following instructions rather than epic electronics ability).

post #4227 of 7978

Finally got all my parts in!!  Started this morning with some stain, and painting. 

 

Stain is "Mahogany" and the paint is "Carbon Mist".    I was walking around the local Home depot and these colours caught my eye. Still waiting for things to dry before I start the Varnish on the box.

 

 

Can anyone identify this tube? There is no manufacturer markings that I can see, only a faint 6080WB.  The tube was filthy when I opened it, but thankfully a microfibre and a touch of windex cleaned it right up.

 

 


Edited by syphen606 - 3/14/14 at 6:19am
post #4228 of 7978

syphen606, that looks great! That's a good idea to stain the wood before gluing. I stained after gluing and had problems with the spots where glue touched the wood.

post #4229 of 7978

Does the top plate get very hot?

 

I ask because I happen to have a replicator 2 3d printer, which I believe should have a big enough print area to print a case for my crack amp (which should be here in a few weeks).

 

UPDATE:  sorry, i wasn't very clear.  the reason I ask why it's hot is because the PLA plastic that the printer prints has a fairly low melting temperature.  different colors have different melting temps.  (clear/white melts at a really low temp, and black has the highest melting point)  didn't want to print a case (would take all day at a high resolution setting) only to have the hot tubes heat up the plate, causing the casing to melt lol

 

also, if i go through with this and it turns out, i'll post the sketch up on thingiverse so others can print it out if they choose they want to do plastic over the wood.  (though I think plastic will look cheap compared to the wood which can be stained or painted)


Edited by bleudeciel16 - 3/14/14 at 8:45am
post #4230 of 7978
Quote:
Originally Posted by bleudeciel16 View Post
 

Does the top plate get very hot?

 

I ask because I happen to have a replicator 2 3d printer, which I believe should have a big enough print area to print a case for my crack amp (which should be here in a few weeks).

 

UPDATE:  sorry, i wasn't very clear.  the reason I ask why it's hot is because the PLA plastic that the printer prints has a fairly low melting temperature.  different colors have different melting temps.  (clear/white melts at a really low temp, and black has the highest melting point)  didn't want to print a case (would take all day at a high resolution setting) only to have the hot tubes heat up the plate, causing the casing to melt lol

 

also, if i go through with this and it turns out, i'll post the sketch up on thingiverse so others can print it out if they choose they want to do plastic over the wood.  (though I think plastic will look cheap compared to the wood which can be stained or painted)


It does get very hot. Less so it seems with the Speedball upgrade. Not sure if it gets hot enough to melt plastic, but IMO it gets almost too hot to comfortably touch.

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