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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 247

post #3691 of 6346

That is a GEC and yes rebranded by CVC I had an identical one.

post #3692 of 6346

It sure looks like a GEC to me...

 

post #3693 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 

That is a GEC and yes rebranded by CVC I had an identical one.

So they do sound the same right?

post #3694 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by SNSDluv View Post
 

So they do sound the same right?

It's a re-brand not a reissue from a different manufacturing plant (unless specified) so yes they sound the same. GEC's are distinguishable by there brown base which I have not seen any other 6AS7/6080 equivalent manufacturer use. 

post #3695 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 

It's a re-brand not a reissue from a different manufacturing plant (unless specified) so yes they sound the same. GEC's are distinguishable by there brown base which I have not seen any other 6AS7/6080 equivalent manufacturer use. 


Thanks so much for the quick response. Last question, I am not sure if it's a fake or real. How do you think about this matter? Is it easy/hard to fake something like this?

post #3696 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by SNSDluv View Post
 


Thanks so much for the quick response. Last question, I am not sure if it's a fake or real. How do you think about this matter? Is it easy/hard to fake something like this?

 

No chance of those being fake - at all period. I had the same identical tube bought from a tube supplier locally. First thing if it was a fake it would have unknown and indistinguishable manufacturer(plant)/date codes, second of all it would have a completely different structure of the plates, heaters, getter and grid inside the tube that does not carry the design and characteristic traits of a GEC tube. Sometimes Mullards come close but still different and different sound if you have a pair of GEC's to compare with each other for reference.


Edited by DefQon - 1/31/14 at 6:58pm
post #3697 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by palmfish View Post
 

It sure looks like a GEC to me...

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 

 

No chance of those being fake - at all period. I had the same identical tube bought from a tube supplier locally. First thing if it was a fake it would have unknown and indistinguishable manufacturer(plant)/date codes, second of all it would have a completely different structure of the plates, heaters, getter and grid inside the tube that does not carry the design and characteristic traits of a GEC tube. Sometimes Mullards come close but still different and different sound if you have a pair of GEC's to compare with each other for reference.

Thank you two very much for the quick response! YOU AWESOME PEEPS :D

post #3698 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 

 

No chance of those being fake - at all period. I had the same identical tube bought from a tube supplier locally. First thing if it was a fake it would have unknown and indistinguishable manufacturer(plant)/date codes, second of all it would have a completely different structure of the plates, heaters, getter and grid inside the tube that does not carry the design and characteristic traits of a GEC tube. Sometimes Mullards come close but still different and different sound if you have a pair of GEC's to compare with each other for reference.


Another question for you or anyone else will know. Will the GEC Brown base work nicely with Hytron 5814A? I am pairing this with HD700 by the way. Looking for a stronger bass and less treble.

post #3699 of 6346
I haven't tried the Hytrons so I don't know.
post #3700 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by SNSDluv View Post
 

The owner said that it is from a company CVC but he claims that it is made by GEC and rebranded by CVC.

 

I don't see any evidence of any brand. Is there a CVC label on the tube but invisible in the photos?

 

The CV type code has no relation to CVC aka Chelmer. It is just the UK government type code for a GEC (or MOV) A1834. 6AS7G is the American type code.

 

post #3701 of 6346

I want to buy a 6SN7 to 12AU7  adapter & there are 2 options available : 6.3 V & 12.6 V . Which one do I choose ?

 

Thanks

post #3702 of 6346

Got my shipping confirmation 31st January, ordered Crack+Speedball 12th January, it´s like a late Christmas present :) just have to wait for it to be shipped half way across the world :D

Anyway, when you painted the chassis plate and the bell cover did any of you use primer (paint)?

I kinda like the hammered finish look, but I have read somewhere that you need a special primer when you paint on aluminium. 

post #3703 of 6346
That's correct.
post #3704 of 6346
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinFoildHat View Post
 

Got my shipping confirmation 31st January, ordered Crack+Speedball 12th January, it´s like a late Christmas present :) just have to wait for it to be shipped half way across the world :D

Anyway, when you painted the chassis plate and the bell cover did any of you use primer (paint)?

I kinda like the hammered finish look, but I have read somewhere that you need a special primer when you paint on aluminium.

 

Congrats hope you have a lot of fun building.

 

As for the paint generally for alloy a primer or is recommended. However this also depends on what type of paint system you intend to use. Find the spec sheet for your intended paint finish and see if a primer or undercoat is required for alloy it should give you details on what the paint manufacturer recommends for good results.

post #3705 of 6346

Well I suppose it was inevitable I have had a JFX  2.2uF 250V Polypropylene Film cap that has been sitting in my parts box for a while now (I brought it at the same time as the 100uf films as it only cost £1.72) and ended up soldering it in as film bypass cap across the last electrolytic filter cap in the Crack earlier today.

I feel there has been a slight improvement in fluidity and presence a touch more body to vocals and also the top end has slightly more crispness to the shimmers and tinkles without importantly for me adding any brightness.

It now opens up a can of worms with respect to trying something like a PIO or SIO or further bypassing of the current bypassing cap with a smaller Teflon.
 

I will let the cap burn in for a week or two in situ while I mull over which options to have fun experimenting with next.
 

 

Photo 1 of 1


Edited by JamieMcC - 2/2/14 at 10:13am
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