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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 240

post #3586 of 5826
Finished mine smily_headphones1.gif I had an issue I forgot to solder from POT to the tube for one channel (doh!) But now it works and sounds fantastic. I stained it black and laquered it, looks pretty good. I'm very pleased, maybe I'll get speedball, or build a B22, can't decide if speedball worth it.

I might sell my soloist, the BHC is much better with the T1. However, the Soloist pairs well with everything I have tried, so I might want to be another high end SS for any orthos or low impedence cans. That's why I'm debating between B22 or just getting speedball. I could build a B22 for $500 so its tough
Edited by DutchGFX - 1/19/14 at 6:28am
post #3587 of 5826

The HD600 vs HD650 poll started over 2 weeks ago is going to close in a little over a day so that we can finally crown a champion once and for all! With over a 100 votes so far, it's still rather close.

 

If you still haven't voted and you've listened to both of these headphones on a similar setup, vote here:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/698372/the-ultimate-hd600-vs-hd650-poll-final-day-of-voting

post #3588 of 5826

So I took the plunge – I decided to upgrade my Crack…  I bought a pair of Mundorf MKP caps and an Alps Blue Velvet pot.

 

I hooked it all up, and switched out my tube to my ‘cheapy’ tube for fear that I had hooked everything up wrong.  Anyway, after several hours of listening I was surprised because to me, it made almost no sonic difference…

 

Then I realized I still had my ‘cheapy’ tubes in my amp.  Woah.  The caps and pot made as much difference as better tubes.   The new caps and pot really upped the detail of the amp.  I’d say it is a worthy upgrade.

 

I do have a bit of a silly question though, how are people attaching the caps to the main plate?  Mine are sort of dangling there for now, but I would like something a little more secure.  I see a lot of people have those pull ties around the caps, but what are they strapped too on the back side?

post #3589 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfatpaulie View Post

 

I do have a bit of a silly question though, how are people attaching the caps to the main plate?  Mine are sort of dangling there for now, but I would like something a little more secure.  I see a lot of people have those pull ties around the caps, but what are they strapped too on the back side?

I think the most common method to secure a cap via a zip tie to the inside of the case (or anchored to some other support) is with hot glue.

post #3590 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by cswann1 View Post
 

I think the most common method to secure a cap via a zip tie to the inside of the case (or anchored to some other support) is with hot glue.

 

I read that and said to myself...  "Obviously."

 

Why the heck didn't I think of that :blink:.

 

Thank you.

post #3591 of 5826
post #3592 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by dguitarnut View Post
 

Thanks guys I found one because of your help.

Yeah it amazes me at the number of Audiophiles in Canada and Australia!  Seems like the best stuff is always in one of your countries!

So did you get the one on canuck audio mart especially with your buck these days you probably got a good deal. Good for you .

post #3593 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfatpaulie View Post
 

So I took the plunge – I decided to upgrade my Crack…  I bought a pair of Mundorf MKP caps and an Alps Blue Velvet pot.

 

I hooked it all up, and switched out my tube to my ‘cheapy’ tube for fear that I had hooked everything up wrong.  Anyway, after several hours of listening I was surprised because to me, it made almost no sonic difference…

 

Then I realized I still had my ‘cheapy’ tubes in my amp.  Woah.  The caps and pot made as much difference as better tubes.   The new caps and pot really upped the detail of the amp.  I’d say it is a worthy upgrade.

 

I do have a bit of a silly question though, how are people attaching the caps to the main plate?  Mine are sort of dangling there for now, but I would like something a little more secure.  I see a lot of people have those pull ties around the caps, but what are they strapped too on the back side?

 

Welcome to the cap club Paul :beerchug: I have about 100hrs on the JFX film caps I fitted to my Crack like you a very noticeable improvement in clarity & detailing straight away. They seem to have settled in now, having noticed some further improvement at around 40hrs and then 60hrs marks.


Edited by JamieMcC - 1/19/14 at 3:17pm
post #3594 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchGFX View Post

Finished mine smily_headphones1.gif I had an issue I forgot to solder from POT to the tube for one channel (doh!) But now it works and sounds fantastic. I stained it black and laquered it, looks pretty good. I'm very pleased, maybe I'll get speedball, or build a B22, can't decide if speedball worth it.

I might sell my soloist, the BHC is much better with the T1. However, the Soloist pairs well with everything I have tried, so I might want to be another high end SS for any orthos or low impedence cans. That's why I'm debating between B22 or just getting speedball. I could build a B22 for $500 so its tough

A beta22 for $500 is doable but its going to have to be very very budget and also it will be very time consuming vs say just installing speedball which can be done in a couple of hours.  Of course the beta will end up being a better all around because it will be able to power orthos as well. 

post #3595 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

A beta22 for $500 is doable but its going to have to be very very budget and also it will be very time consuming vs say just installing speedball which can be done in a couple of hours.  Of course the beta will end up being a better all around because it will be able to power orthos as well. 

 

Or you could buy the S.E.X. :evil:

post #3596 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post
 

 

Or you could buy the S.E.X. :evil:

The SEX is good...Very good.  But if you can spare to spend enough time on the beta as well as have all the tools and skills needed to build the beta I think that its better.  But for the majority that doesn't meet all 3 of those requirements it will either cost a lot more than a simple 2 channel beta is worth or I would go with the SEX.  Plus the SEX was a lot of fun to build.  

 

Just my $0.02

post #3597 of 5826
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfatpaulie View Post

 

I do have a bit of a silly question though, how are people attaching the caps to the main plate?  Mine are sort of dangling there for now, but I would like something a little more secure.  I see a lot of people have those pull ties around the caps, but what are they strapped too on the back side?

 

I'd recommend zip tie mounts, which have adhesive backings but should also ideally be screwed down, because the heat of the amp will likely cause the adhesive to fail over time.

 

Here's a picture of mine from way back when, after I installed the zip tie mounts, but before I added my speedball or film caps.  I actually measured/placed and stuck down the mounts, then simply drilled straight through them and the chassis plate.  Pretty easy even with a cheap drill, although the adhesive may well gum up and destroy your bit.

 

post #3598 of 5826

Paul, I have noticed a few builders have used a bead of bathroom caulk to stick their caps in place. I used the adhesive cable tie bases as I did not want to drill through my top however I am also thinking about adding a small amount of caulk to each end of the caps for a secondary attachment rather than depend solely on the cable tie pads. The caulk ends could then easily be cut with a craft knife for removal if required.

post #3599 of 5826

post #3600 of 5826

For you guys worried about adhesive coming off due to heat, why not use an epoxy or crazy glue or something?

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