That's a great thought. It's how the sockets are mounted on the S.E.X. too (although those sockets use a rubber damper of sorts between the chassis plate and socket body).
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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 217post #3241 of 810211/16/13 at 3:24pm
Head-Fi's Best Sellerspost #3242 of 810211/16/13 at 3:47pmpost #3243 of 810211/16/13 at 3:59pmQuote:
Yeah, my secret sauce for that was that I used a small amount of Blue Tack to dampen the tube socket from the chassis. I really put alot of attention to detail in my build so it can perform at its finest :)post #3244 of 810211/16/13 at 7:25pmpost #3245 of 810211/16/13 at 8:21pmpost #3246 of 810211/16/13 at 8:53pmQuote:Originally Posted by JamieMcC
I was sat gazing fondly at my newly fitted out top plate and then started wondering, I'm not sure if this will be ok but what do you guys think about mounting the 12au7 socket from underneath rather than from the top it gets that retaining ring out of sight and the socket slightly lower giving a flusher look. Can anyone think of any issues with doing this?
Its still firmly secured and the tube fits in and out without any problems.
And of course painting that wooden base black with lots of gloss varnish.
Edited by ben_r_ - 11/16/13 at 8:54pmpost #3247 of 810211/16/13 at 9:00pm
I had actually bought some of those exact Belton sockets, but decided against using them. I would've had to drill out the top plate, and even then they would stick out pretty far out the top.post #3248 of 810211/17/13 at 1:11amQuote:
Thanks for the socket links, perhaps next time.
Yes the white sockets would have been nice black the power tube covers its socket completely with the 12au7 it does show a little around the edge. A bit of masking tape a few toothpicks and some of the wife's black nail varnish will take care of the white tube socket surrounds later on.
Black was considered as well as a carbon covered enclosure but I was worried a high gloss piano black or a full carbon finish would change the character to much it would lose those instantly recognisable Bottlehead good looks that set the brand apart from all those other off the shelf black boxed bits of hifi and also I really didn't want yet another black box.
That's the great thing with the Crack you can more or less do what you like in the looks department. That steam punk rusty looking pic that the Doc posted I think is awesome.
Edited by JamieMcC - 11/17/13 at 1:19ampost #3249 of 810211/17/13 at 1:25amQuote:
Nice purchase where did you get it from?post #3250 of 810211/17/13 at 2:23ampost #3251 of 810211/17/13 at 3:30am
I'm in the process of selling the Crack and the deal is almost done. Now I wanted to make a video to show that the crack is working so I just plugged a VModa M100 just to show that it works. I was not expecting the sound to be any good since the m100 are 32ohm. I was stunned on how good the sound is, treble mids bass it's all there. Bass goes very deep and has good impact. What gives? I know that the crack only works with headphones over 150ohm and it sounds better than my sherwood receiver . If the LCD-X arrives and I still have the Crack I will be sure the give it a try.
My crack has speedball and Mundorf M-caps as output, everything else is standard.post #3252 of 810211/17/13 at 6:11amQuote:
Damn good find. For $110, it seems to be a good deal...Nowadays even ts5998s are easily +$100post #3253 of 810211/17/13 at 10:44am
RE Tung sol 5998s l found TC tubes to be very helpful and great to deal with I brought the last few5998's they had in which they described as tested and as new. They where in fact NOS but they don't like to use that term for some reason. They arrived complete with test results and very well packaged. They even gave me a deal on shipping for free which saved me $45 as a deal on buying the last few of their stock at the time.
I just checked they have a 4 more in now in at $72.75 each
"This tube tests as new with balanced sections and very low noise. It was tested at typical operating voltages on a laboratory grade Amplitrex AT1000. This testing process also includes screening for gas, heater-cathode leakage, and shorts. This tube has also been screened for noise and excessive microphonics in our OTL headphone amp"
Edited by JamieMcC - 11/17/13 at 10:54ampost #3254 of 810211/18/13 at 1:22pm
There is nothing wrong with mounting the 9 pin socket from the bottom side of the chassis. If anything, it can be a little awkward when getting the nuts to sit against the retainer ring.
Belton sockets are nice (when they are available), though I don't get too excited thinking about a plastic socket sitting under a hot 6080.post #3255 of 810211/18/13 at 9:38pm
Guys, before I decide to get Crack or not I want to ask few questions.
- What is the sound for HD600+ Crack? Warm, neutral, bright? I read in review that Crack is neutral and fast. After spending times with warm amp and thick sound amp, I love warm, and fast sound. I afraid that the highs will be ear piercing in neutral amp, or perhaps Crack get them in control?
- Should I get the speedball or not for HD600? How much sound improvement from basic kit to speeball?
- What DAC recommended with crack and HD600, price wise about $300 and below. The cheaper the better.
Currently my alternative is LF 336C due to:
- Warm sound. But the downside is this amp more relax compared to Crack and I listened to heavy metal etc too.
- Easier to obtained and less hassle.
I'm open to other solid state amp for HD600 too within the same prize. Currently my DAC is Aune T1, upgrade in consideration. All my consideration done without listening to the mention amp. So, forgive me for my silly question. I just want to avoid too much upgradetitis.
- Crack;Bottlehead OTL
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