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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 213

post #3181 of 5998
If you want a simple project to get some soldering practice before you tackle the Crack, check here: http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-feed.htm

It's very simple, good experience, you can't really break anything, and you'll have something potentially useful when you're finished.
post #3182 of 5998
I should add that it only takes about 30 minutes to build, and when complete, you will have all the experience you need to build the Crack.
post #3183 of 5998

Also, don't be daunted by the Speedball.

 

It's definitely worth "cutting your teeth" on the stock Crack build first, but you'll be fine with just a little patience and care. Another benefit with separating the 2 builds (Crack and Speedball) is hearing the difference with and without the SB.

 

As some others here have wisely advised, you may want to install the plastic spacers for the Speedball during your initial build even if you're not doing the SB straight away.

post #3184 of 5998
I think I'll just buy the base kit now and the speedball later. Like a lot of others, I don't have any soldering experience, but I plan on calling my dad and spending an evening or two working on this with him. Does it matter what type of solder you use? Since I'm sure he doesn't have the highest quality stuff.
post #3185 of 5998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acknown3 View Post

I think I'll just buy the base kit now and the speedball later. Like a lot of others, I don't have any soldering experience, but I plan on calling my dad and spending an evening or two working on this with him. Does it matter what type of solder you use? Since I'm sure he doesn't have the highest quality stuff.

Standard 60/40 solder is best for beginners. Further, get some with a small diameter so you can work with it very easily.

post #3186 of 5998
I prefer 63/37. If you can, try to get a no-clean version. It doesn't matter for purposes of the Crack, but it is useful if you ever build a DIY solid state amp (which you will want to do after this)...

I happen to like Kester 245 solder. From memory, .031" is a good diameter to use.
post #3187 of 5998

Build update

 

As I had a piece of carbon fibre left over already and would have needed to buy some paint for the top plate I decided to cut a piece to fit and see how it looked. After first assembling the wooden enclosure which has had its first coat of some Danish oil which I had left over.

 

I still need to cut the holes out but gives a feel for how it will look. (I later glued the carbon fibre sheet on to the alloy top plate in case anyone is wondering).

 

                

 

I did plan to start the build the day before during my lunch break. However the marina next door decided to start its November the 5th bonfire (Its Guy Fawkes Day in the UK we celebrate with bonfires and fireworks) at midday so decided to watch that instead they spent about £3 million on the bonfire! The radar mast I help build a few years back can be seen well alight.

 

 

 .                 

 

video from the local news.

 

 

The boat later sank at her berth around midnight.

 

http://www.iwcp.co.uk/news/news/firefighters-called-to-marina-51580.aspx

 

http://www.ancasta.com/boats-for-sale/nordhavn-nordhavn-76-28373/


Edited by JamieMcC - 11/10/13 at 4:03pm
post #3188 of 5998

just wanted to give a tip on painting the transformer bell. I sanded the bell, dusted and washed it, sanded it with 420 grit paper, but still got some texturing or bubbling when the gloss paint was applied.

 

After removing all the paint with paint remover (mineral spirits) I applied the paint again (rustoleum universal gloss black), perfectly smooth and self leveling.

 

Make sure you use a chemical cleaner on the bell before applying the paint.  It will go so much easier!

post #3189 of 5998

Thanks for the tip.

 

On the subject of the bell housing can anyone recall how hot it gets?


Edited by JamieMcC - 11/9/13 at 3:08pm
post #3190 of 5998

I'd say no hotter than 150 degrees.  its hot to the touch, but won't ruin the paint.  I know rustoleum and krylon are rated at around 200 degrees.

post #3191 of 5998
About 125-130F measured with an ir thermometer. It's designed to run hot.
post #3192 of 5998

That's excellent just what I was after thank you.

post #3193 of 5998

I just finished building my new Crack earlier today. I have the SpeedBall still in the back. I figure I should leave if for another weekend!

 

crackdesk.jpg

 

On my desk next to my "to file" pile...  I guess it's getting out of control, eh?

 

 

crackprespeed.jpg

 

 

My build...

 

 

bhcnight.jpg 

 

And in the dark.

 

 

 

The first two hours with the amp were a little disappointing.  It sounded harsh.  It's warmed up...  A LOT.  It's really a lovely sounding amp.

 

Cheers!

post #3194 of 5998

^ Textbook perfection. Excellent job!

 

:beerchug:

post #3195 of 5998

:beerchug:

 

Thanks.  It took about 3 hours start to finish and I took my time.  And I had no issues - who knew!  :biggrin: 


Edited by bigfatpaulie - 11/9/13 at 7:07pm
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