It's very simple, good experience, you can't really break anything, and you'll have something potentially useful when you're finished.
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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 213post #3181 of 809611/8/13 at 10:13am
Head-Fi's Best Sellerspost #3182 of 809611/8/13 at 10:47ampost #3183 of 809611/8/13 at 12:33pm
Also, don't be daunted by the Speedball.
It's definitely worth "cutting your teeth" on the stock Crack build first, but you'll be fine with just a little patience and care. Another benefit with separating the 2 builds (Crack and Speedball) is hearing the difference with and without the SB.
As some others here have wisely advised, you may want to install the plastic spacers for the Speedball during your initial build even if you're not doing the SB straight away.post #3184 of 809611/8/13 at 12:54pmI think I'll just buy the base kit now and the speedball later. Like a lot of others, I don't have any soldering experience, but I plan on calling my dad and spending an evening or two working on this with him. Does it matter what type of solder you use? Since I'm sure he doesn't have the highest quality stuff.post #3185 of 809611/8/13 at 1:39pmQuote:Originally Posted by Acknown3
I think I'll just buy the base kit now and the speedball later. Like a lot of others, I don't have any soldering experience, but I plan on calling my dad and spending an evening or two working on this with him. Does it matter what type of solder you use? Since I'm sure he doesn't have the highest quality stuff.
Standard 60/40 solder is best for beginners. Further, get some with a small diameter so you can work with it very easily.post #3186 of 809611/8/13 at 1:44pmI prefer 63/37. If you can, try to get a no-clean version. It doesn't matter for purposes of the Crack, but it is useful if you ever build a DIY solid state amp (which you will want to do after this)...
I happen to like Kester 245 solder. From memory, .031" is a good diameter to use.post #3187 of 809611/9/13 at 6:16am
As I had a piece of carbon fibre left over already and would have needed to buy some paint for the top plate I decided to cut a piece to fit and see how it looked. After first assembling the wooden enclosure which has had its first coat of some Danish oil which I had left over.
I still need to cut the holes out but gives a feel for how it will look. (I later glued the carbon fibre sheet on to the alloy top plate in case anyone is wondering).
I did plan to start the build the day before during my lunch break. However the marina next door decided to start its November the 5th bonfire (Its Guy Fawkes Day in the UK we celebrate with bonfires and fireworks) at midday so decided to watch that instead they spent about £3 million on the bonfire! The radar mast I help build a few years back can be seen well alight.
video from the local news.
The boat later sank at her berth around midnight.
Edited by JamieMcC - 11/10/13 at 4:03pmpost #3188 of 809611/9/13 at 12:02pm
just wanted to give a tip on painting the transformer bell. I sanded the bell, dusted and washed it, sanded it with 420 grit paper, but still got some texturing or bubbling when the gloss paint was applied.
After removing all the paint with paint remover (mineral spirits) I applied the paint again (rustoleum universal gloss black), perfectly smooth and self leveling.
Make sure you use a chemical cleaner on the bell before applying the paint. It will go so much easier!post #3189 of 809611/9/13 at 2:37pmpost #3190 of 809611/9/13 at 2:57pmpost #3191 of 809611/9/13 at 2:59pmpost #3192 of 809611/9/13 at 3:11pmpost #3193 of 809611/9/13 at 6:54pm
I just finished building my new Crack earlier today. I have the SpeedBall still in the back. I figure I should leave if for another weekend!
On my desk next to my "to file" pile... I guess it's getting out of control, eh?
And in the dark.
The first two hours with the amp were a little disappointing. It sounded harsh. It's warmed up... A LOT. It's really a lovely sounding amp.
Cheers!post #3194 of 809611/9/13 at 7:02pmpost #3195 of 809611/9/13 at 7:06pm
- Crack;Bottlehead OTL
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