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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 211

post #3151 of 5512
Quote:
Originally Posted by amcananey View Post

"@amcananey, its mild steel of course its going to oxidize with moisture, they paint cars for that very reason. "

That's great...as long as you know that it is "mild steel". And how exactly am I supposed to know that? I wouldn't know steel from any other metal. I know the chassis is aluminum, and I know aluminum doesn't rust. Beyond that I don't have a clue.

 

Sorry man, didn't mean for that to sound condescending.  What i meant to say is any bare untreated metal is going to oxidize, even aluminium, just some do it faster than others.

post #3152 of 5512
Other than aesthetics, is there anything functionally bad about the rust? Noticed that mine rusted as well but didn't think much of it
post #3153 of 5512
Quote:
Originally Posted by EraserXIV View Post

Other than aesthetics, is there anything functionally bad about the rust? Noticed that mine rusted as well but didn't think much of it

If it is only external and not near any electrical connections, then no, although eventually, it will fully rot away, as we all will, given the appropriate amount of time....

post #3154 of 5512

Unexpected good news on the UK Crack front I have just received notice for duty and custom clearance fees for Crack and Speedball. it was in fact much less than anticipated via the earlier posted calculator which gave £80 in the end it was only £27 must be something to do with it being in the kit form as parts.  Should be delivered tomorrow.

post #3155 of 5512
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

Unexpected good news on the UK Crack front I have just received notice for duty and custom clearance fees for Crack and Speedball. it was in fact much less than anticipated via the earlier posted calculator which gave £80 in the end it was only £27 must be something to do with it being in the kit form as parts.  Should be delivered tomorrow.

:popcorn:

post #3156 of 5512
Many years ago I did a custom amp in which I used one of the "antiquing" kits that created rust. I did the channel frames of the chokes, and the bell end of the power transformer. Used a green flocking on the coils and a green suede texture paint on the chassis panel, and wrapped the fly leads with bare copper tape. IIRC I sprayed a matte clear finish over the rust. Sold rather quickly.
post #3157 of 5512
post #3158 of 5512

^ Very cool Doc!

post #3159 of 5512

That's a smashing look, its got that steam punk look going for it, sticking with the antiquing theme Doc's green top reminded me of that lovely green patina bronze gets when its been left out side, it would go really well with the rust and wouldn't look out of place as part of the Time Machine out of a Jules Verne novel.


Edited by JamieMcC - 11/5/13 at 12:21pm
post #3160 of 5512
Just got my rca clear top. Even with the standard 6080wa my of my it changes the crack to even better. The bass is crazy tight. This amp is keep improving with every changes
post #3161 of 5512
The clear top is such a great tube and the Crack a great amp. Best thing is that they're both really well priced!
post #3162 of 5512
Speaking of RCA clear tops. Is there a better year to seek out?
post #3163 of 5512
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

Speaking of RCA clear tops. Is there a better year to seek out?

Not that I have personally found a better year, but a NOS matched Mu is a good better bet.

post #3164 of 5512
Mu?
post #3165 of 5512
Purr?
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