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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 203

post #3031 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post

That's my understanding too. There are always variations on the measurements so no doubt those variations carry through to the HP socket also.

Is this a power on DC offset? If so best practice would be to let the amp warm up without headphones connected. I mean, I do this already since I won't risk cooking my HD800's. I no longer even leave them plugged in un-attended. This goes double for an amp with 0 protection.
post #3032 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post


Is this a power on DC offset? If so best practice would be to let the amp warm up without headphones connected. I mean, I do this already since I won't risk cooking my HD800's. I no longer even leave them plugged in un-attended. This goes double for an amp with 0 protection.

 

I've never heard of anyone destroying headphones with a Bottlehead amp startup, but it's always good to be safe.

post #3033 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post

I've never heard of anyone destroying headphones with a Bottlehead amp startup, but it's always good to be safe.


The majority of amps likely have some offset at startup. I'm not centering out BH in any way. IMHO its better to wear out the TRS jack.
post #3034 of 7977

You could implement a soft start circuit if you're worried about it too.

post #3035 of 7977
nah, I don't even have a power switch. I cooked mine while building, so I bypassed it.
post #3036 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

nah, I don't even have a power switch. I cooked mine while building, so I bypassed it.

Please tell me you have it fused. If you don't that is a fire waiting to happen, seriously!

post #3037 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post


The majority of amps likely have some offset at startup. I'm not centering out BH in any way. IMHO its better to wear out the TRS jack.

 

Oh sorry. I realised you weren't targeting BH in particular. My direct reference to BH was more a case of sticking just to what I'm familiar with and not making a big sweeping (and potentially highly inaccurate) statement. :)

post #3038 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

Please tell me you have it fused. If you don't that is a fire waiting to happen, seriously!

 

+1,000,000

 

The switches are really cheap from any electronics store and worth replacing. As brunk said, hopefully you have got the fuse incstalled (i.e. not bypassed) in the IEC power socket

post #3039 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

Please tell me you have it fused. If you don't that is a fire waiting to happen, seriously!


Yes, its fused.
post #3040 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post


Yes, its fused.

OK good. You had me concerned for a minute there! :o

post #3041 of 7977
Can anyone point me to a good thread on mods/component upgrades? while I like the stock crack, its a bit loose in the bottom. I'm starting to peruse tubes on flea bay, but looking to try out some nicer caps or resistors while I wait for my speedball kit to get packed and shipped.
post #3042 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

nah, I don't even have a power switch. I cooked mine while building, so I bypassed it.

Aren't you worried about your tubes clogging up burning out?

post #3043 of 7977
Well, no. I unplug it when not in use. And the tubes are relatively cheap stock ones. I have pairs for my Lyr which sell used for more than the value of the crack.


Hoping a nice 5998 will open the crack up a bit more.
post #3044 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

Can anyone point me to a good thread on mods/component upgrades? while I like the stock crack, its a bit loose in the bottom. I'm starting to peruse tubes on flea bay, but looking to try out some nicer caps or resistors while I wait for my speedball kit to get packed and shipped.

 

Check out the Bottlehead Forums (http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php), specifically the "Crack" area. There's plenty of good mod discussion over there, but consensus is that the Speedball is easily the best bang-for-buck upgrade whereas caps and stuff are more fine tuning the sound signature. I guess the one high value upgrade you could try would be to upgrade the power caps like amcananey (not that you have to go as far as he did!) ;)

post #3045 of 7977
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

Well, no. I unplug it when not in use. And the tubes are relatively cheap stock ones. I have pairs for my Lyr which sell used for more than the value of the crack.


Hoping a nice 5998 will open the crack up a bit more.

Yes, a nice 5998 will definitely do open the Crack up. It gives a bigger holographic sound stage, bring mid a bit more forward, and more sparkle in treble :D

 

But I honestly recommend you that the speedball is the best upgrade you can have for your Crack. Get it first, then go for the tubes.

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