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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 199

post #2971 of 5981
My favourite low price 6080 is the Mullard 6080WA. It's a little warm, but has a great soundstage and pairs beautifully with 12AU7 Cleartop
post #2972 of 5981

My new input tube for the Crack... :tongue:

 

 

 

 

This is one of, if not the most glorious input tubes I have ever seen. It is also the biggest and best sounding input tubes I've tried in the Crack. I have to admit that I initially doubt that there is a noticeable difference, but I was wrong. The sound is simply amazing.

 

The only little problem is...now my Crack looks a bit weird, because the 'monster' input tube is even bigger than my GEC brown base power tube :D

post #2973 of 5981

Where's the cheapest place to order the RCA Clear-top?

 

I'm interested in trying one.

 

Do I need to purchase another tube to pair it with?

post #2974 of 5981
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeolus Kratos View Post
 

My new input tube for the Crack... :tongue:

 

 

This is one of, if not the most glorious input tubes I have ever seen. It is also the biggest and best sounding input tubes I've tried in the Crack. I have to admit that I initially doubt that there is a noticeable difference, but I was wrong. The sound is simply amazing.

 

The only little problem is...now my Crack looks a bit weird, because the 'monster' input tube is even bigger than my GEC brown base power tube :D

 

Sorry, Im not too familiar with tubes, what is that tube and adapter? price? 

post #2975 of 5981
 

Originally Posted by Aeolus Kratos View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My new input tube for the Crack... :tongue:

 

 

 

 

This is one of, if not the most glorious input tubes I have ever seen. It is also the biggest and best sounding input tubes I've tried in the Crack. I have to admit that I initially doubt that there is a noticeable difference, but I was wrong. The sound is simply amazing.

 

The only little problem is...now my Crack looks a bit weird, because the 'monster' input tube is even bigger than my GEC brown base power tube :D

 

Very nice!  Psvane 6SN7, I presume?  I'm, by and large, done with tube rolling for my Crack.. but I'd consider grabbing that beauty!

post #2976 of 5981

Got my kit yesterday and had so much fun building it. It was my first headphone-related DIY project and it was awesome. I spent 7 hours straight doing it; I was originally planning on doing it over two or three days but I just couldn't tear myself away. I built the base model and will be adding in the speedball in a couple weeks.

 

As far as I can tell, everything works properly. The voltages are within the right range, although I was a bit worried about the fact that the resistance on the left/right inputs is about 10ohms apart (95 versus 105). Is that going to be something I will hear, and is it normal to have such variations or is it symptomatic of an error on my part?

 

I can't actually listen to it yet because I realized I don't actually own RCA cables (yet)

 

post #2977 of 5981
Quote:
Originally Posted by drizek View Post

 

I can't actually listen to it yet because I realized I don't actually own RCA cables (yet)

 

Oh that has got to hurt!

post #2978 of 5981
LOL. I had to laugh at that one, too. I would run out and buy a pair from Radio Shack or Walmart or wherever, just to get myself up and running. Congrats on the build, you won't be disappointed!
post #2979 of 5981
Quote:
Originally Posted by amcananey View Post

LOL. I had to laugh at that one, too. I would run out and buy a pair from Radio Shack or Walmart or wherever, just to get myself up and running. Congrats on the build, you won't be disappointed!

Hehe yeah that reminds me when I make cables and sometimes forget to put the housing on the cable before i solder the wires lol!

post #2980 of 5981

The plan is to build a matching set of cables for AC/RCA/Sennheiser.

 

I never anticipated that someday I'd be living in an apartment without RCA cables; they are supposed to be ubiquitous.

 

Another voltage question: the final check in the manual says to measure the voltage on power on of the powered L/R channels. It says it should go up to 9V then drop to 0. On mine it goes all the way up to 12V before dropping. Is that too high or within the correct range? i did not find any other voltage/resistance issues (other than the L/R resistance mismatch), so I'm not really sure why it is going up to 12 instead of 9.

post #2981 of 5981
Quote:
Originally Posted by drizek View Post
 

The plan is to build a matching set of cables for AC/RCA/Sennheiser.

 

I never anticipated that someday I'd be living in an apartment without RCA cables; they are supposed to be ubiquitous.

 

Another voltage question: the final check in the manual says to measure the voltage on power on of the powered L/R channels. It says it should go up to 9V then drop to 0. On mine it goes all the way up to 12V before dropping. Is that too high or within the correct range? i did not find any other voltage/resistance issues (other than the L/R resistance mismatch), so I'm not really sure why it is going up to 12 instead of 9.

far as i know, as long as it goes to 0 there shouldn't be an issue.

post #2982 of 5981
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

far as i know, as long as it goes to 0 there shouldn't be an issue.

 

That's my understanding too. There are always variations on the measurements so no doubt those variations carry through to the HP socket also.

post #2983 of 5981

Hi there

 

I have a NOS NIB Tung Sol black glass black plate 12AU7 I'm selling (ordered six weeks ago, but just arrived) - Please see my signature for link to listing (sorry Lachlan - I need to sell). 

 

Also the following:

Matched pair NOS NIB 6AS7G RCA JAN

NOS NIB Tung Sol clear top 12AU7A

Tung Sol clear top 12AU7 (used but strong, printed marking rubbed off)

3 x used but strong Tungsram E80CC (white box) - Only 1 left

Quite a few Baldwin branded but Japanese made 12AU7 tubes (white box, lightly used but strong)

Matched pair Mullard ECC82 (Mitcham 1960) wrinkled glass (white box, lightly used but strong)

RCA 5963 (driver tube for Crack) long black laddered plate with top D getter, 1956 (NOS, white box)

 

That's it gents and I'm out of tubes for the Crack.

 

Let me know if you are interested in any or all of the above.  I am in the middle of a major depressive episode, agoraphobic, unable to work and out of money, so you would be doing me a favour.

 

Cheers and sorry for the sob story.

 

Nathan

 

:beerchug: 


Edited by W0lfd0g - 10/23/13 at 7:34pm
post #2984 of 5981

... and I just shocked myself. 

 

Pretty sure I touched one of the live AC leads on the power switch. 

 

Tip: don't play with this thing while it is still plugged in. :confused_face:

 

I actually feel really stupid right now. Glad I didn't die. 

post #2985 of 5981
Quote:
Originally Posted by drizek View Post
 

... and I just shocked myself. 

 

Pretty sure I touched one of the live AC leads on the power switch. 

 

Tip: don't play with this thing while it is still plugged in. :confused_face:

 

I actually feel really stupid right now. Glad I didn't die. 

 

I'm glad you didn't die too!!

 

Very important to take lots of care when testing the circuit and always unplug the cable from the power socket (i.e. mains power supply) before doing anything "under the hood". A friend of mine fried himself on a capacitor even after unplugging the unit for a few minutes (the circuit was faulty and didn't drain the caps) so beware of loaded capacitors to - a rubber handled set of pliers can serve as a good guinea pig for live current.

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