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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 165

post #2461 of 5879
If you are installing a different volume pot, check whether you need to widen the hole before starting your build.

When attaching anything to terminal 14U, try to keep it as clean as possible, because you will need every fraction of a millimeter you can get there, since a ton of stuff runs through there.

Best regards,
Adam
post #2462 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by amcananey View Post

If you are installing a different volume pot, check whether you need to widen the hole before starting your build.

When attaching anything to terminal 14U, try to keep it as clean as possible, because you will need every fraction of a millimeter you can get there, since a ton of stuff runs through there.

Best regards,
Adam

check and check. thanks.

post #2463 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by caracara08 View Post

any slightly more budget friendly recommendations for tube rolling?  I went ot the BH forum and looked up a few but theyre all expensive.  I received the tubes from BH but the 6080 (I think it is) has something loose inside it and its rattling.  

 

Thank you.

 

I started out trying a bunch of cheap tubes (all <$30) and found the following to be a nice upgrade from the stock. Each one sounds different and the combination of different power and iput tubes allowed me to tune the Crack quite differently depending on which headphones I was using (e.g. HD650s vs Beyer T1s)

 

Power

 

  • Mullard 6080WA (great with HD650)
  • GE 6AS7G (great with Beyer T1)
  • RCA 6080 (great with HD650)

 

Input

 

  • RCA Cleartop 12AU7 (great with HD650)
  • Mullard ECC82 (great with Beyer T1)
  • Genalex Gold Lion ECC82 / 12AU7 (can't remember which code it's officially listed as) - this isn't quite as good as the other 2, but readily available and BNIB
post #2464 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post

 

I started out trying a bunch of cheap tubes (all <$30) and found the following to be a nice upgrade from the stock. Each one sounds different and the combination of different power and iput tubes allowed me to tune the Crack quite differently depending on which headphones I was using (e.g. HD650s vs Beyer T1s)

 

Power

 

  • Mullard 6080WA (great with HD650)
  • GE 6AS7G (great with Beyer T1)
  • RCA 6080 (great with HD650)

 

Input

 

  • RCA Cleartop 12AU7 (great with HD650)
  • Mullard ECC82 (great with Beyer T1)
  • Genalex Gold Lion ECC82 / 12AU7 (can't remember which code it's officially listed as) - this isn't quite as good as the other 2, but readily available and BNIB

 

I was able to get the free upgraded tubes with my order.  I think that was the RCA 6080 and the RCA Cleartop 12AU7.. if I remembre correctly.  Can anyone else confirm?

post #2465 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

I understand it's a good idea to put in the LEDs before the wires, installing the SB standoffs before wiring, and installing fly leads for my film caps. Is there anything else recommended? Thanks.

 

You should prep something for mounting the film caps. Common solution is a sticky zip tie mount, but the sticky isn't really a good long term solution because they will eventually give way over time. I drilled out the top plate and screwed down the zip tie mounts I used: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/uv-black-mounting-base-bag-of-8/977480

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by amcananey View Post

When attaching anything to terminal 14U, try to keep it as clean as possible, because you will need every fraction of a millimeter you can get there, since a ton of stuff runs through there.

 

For the modification on page 19, you can use 14L. Makes it much easier at that terminal.

post #2466 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc B. View Post

There will be no surface mount soldering to be done in our kit, it will come with the surface mount parts already installed. 

Kinda sad but also kinda relieved.  That will cut the amount of work people have to do by like half and also Doc you won't get 50% of the people who ordered telling you they need a new pcb and parts.  

post #2467 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefy View Post

 

You should prep something for mounting the film caps. Common solution is a sticky zip tie mount, but the sticky isn't really a good long term solution because they will eventually give way over time. I drilled out the top plate and screwed down the zip tie mounts I used: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/uv-black-mounting-base-bag-of-8/977480

 

 

For the modification on page 19, you can use 14L. Makes it much easier at that terminal.

I did buy some zip tie mounts and some reusable zip ties. I think im going to mount them to the side of the case with some gorilla glue. Should make for a prettier faceplate, with the minor hassle of unzipping them to remove the cover. So, i can use 14L for the SB? Cool.

post #2468 of 5879
You haven't seen the board. It would be more like 100%.
post #2469 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc B. View Post

You haven't seen the board. It would be more like 100%.

Haha that sounds like a challenge.  I would be willing to take it on if you give me a discount when I buy the DAC.

post #2470 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post

Haha that sounds like a challenge.  I would be willing to take it on if you give me a discount when I buy the DAC.

Might want to buy some insurance with that too tongue_smile.gif

 

"We got your crack covered!"

post #2471 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

I did buy some zip tie mounts and some reusable zip ties. I think im going to mount them to the side of the case with some gorilla glue. Should make for a prettier faceplate, with the minor hassle of unzipping them to remove the cover. So, i can use 14L for the SB? Cool.

 

Frankly, I think gluing anything is a terrible idea. It is far too messy to be a non-permanent/serviceable solution, yet it is not robust enough to be 'properly' permanent.

post #2472 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefy View Post

 

Frankly, I think gluing anything is a terrible idea. It is far too messy to be a non-permanent/serviceable solution, yet it is not robust enough to be 'properly' permanent.

Hmm, maybe I can use industrial velcro instead of glue to mount it, i know that stuff is strong. I just don't want to make extra holes in the case if i can help it redface.gif

post #2473 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

Hmm, maybe I can use industrial velcro instead of glue to mount it, i know that stuff is strong. I just don't want to make extra holes in the case if i can help it redface.gif

Some little screw holes might be preferable to possible damage caused if you ever need to remove glue / adhesive which can take chunks of timber with it. Your call of course and it's on the inside anyway - just my 5c worth.
post #2474 of 5879
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

Hmm, maybe I can use industrial velcro instead of glue to mount it, i know that stuff is strong. I just don't want to make extra holes in the case if i can help it redface.gif

 

Look, there's a corner! Lets cut it!

 

The top plate is aluminium which drills very easily. Draw your holes accurately on paper (or print it out from CAD if you are that anal), carefully use a centre punch, then drill through the paper to prevent the filings from scratching anything. A nice socket-cap screw, and QED.

 

And if you are painting the top plate anyway, there is even less cause for concern because you don't have to worry so much about scratches. Just make sure you let the paint set properly before screwing anything to it. The photo in my original build gallery 404's, but here it is again...... it really doesn't mess with the aesthetics at all.

 

*

 

post #2475 of 5879

Oh, that's not too bad at all, thanks for the pic. I thought it would look much worse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefy View Post

 

Look, there's a corner! Lets cut it!

 

The top plate is aluminium which drills very easily. Draw your holes accurately on paper (or print it out from CAD if you are that anal), carefully use a centre punch, then drill through the paper to prevent the filings from scratching anything. A nice socket-cap screw, and QED.

 

And if you are painting the top plate anyway, there is even less cause for concern because you don't have to worry so much about scratches. Just make sure you let the paint set properly before screwing anything to it. The photo in my original build gallery 404's, but here it is again...... it really doesn't mess with the aesthetics at all.

 

*

 

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