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Crack;Bottlehead OTL - Page 117

post #1741 of 5571

They are solid state components. So, there should be no audible change over time (until failure). 

post #1742 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKillerPiglet View Post

Yes, it is a top notch combo. Not bright at ll, gives the T1 some much needed body without sacrificing precision. I really enjoy it with the humble RCA 6AS7G and 12bh7 tubes. This is a very warm combination. The Crack can easily sound warmer than the 339 (which I also own) while the 339 can easily sound sharper than the Crack. Much depends on the tubes.

 

I have tried countless tube combinations in both amps, including 6sn7's in the Crack and EF80 types in the 339. They are both highly enjoyable amps. I do not think you can go wrong.

 

A couple of things to keep in mind:

 

- if you are planning on picking up HE500's then the 339 is your choice. It drives them nicely, listening to this combo right now (RCA Red 6sj7's, Sylvania 6080WC's in amp, Bugle Boy 6992's pinched waist in DAC).

 

- the 339 needs twice as many tubes, so twice as much money to roll. If you are going to stick to 600 ohm T1's, or 300 ohm Senns (the 650's are just plain seductive on these amps) then I'd go the Crack route.

 

Another thing to keep in mind: they both share the same power tubes....

 

 

KP

 

Thanks for that, KP! Very encouraging to hear. 

post #1743 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by liamstrain View Post

They are solid state components. So, there should be no audible change over time (until failure). 

 

Thanks Liamstrain.  Looks like it's a nice day to stay inside in Chicago and listen to the Crack (38degrees F last I checked)

 
post #1744 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsound View Post

 

Sure smile.gif (go Bruins).  Please excuse the rats-nest of wires.

 

Does anyone know if there's is there a burn-in period for the Speedball?  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking good! This kit is on my list of amps to try out before I finally settle. I heard it once with a pair of HD650s and I looked at the owner and said "How much did this cost???" I couldn't believe it. 

post #1745 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by mink70 View Post

Now if I could only figure out how to decrease the gain a little. Turning down the digital volume control in Audirvana is probably not a great idea. Oy.

 

Simple. Try these. They work incredibly well and are (obviously) removable, so better than other most other solutions. While lower levels of attenuation are available, even -12dB isn't as much as you think. I would say you should go straight for the -12dB. Anything lower won't be worth your time.

 

FWIW, they are too long and thin to work well in the verticle orientation required by the Crack's default RCA inputs, so I would get a pair of these, too.

 

Best regards,

Adam

post #1746 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by amcananey View Post

 

Simple. Try these. They work incredibly well and are (obviously) removable, so better than other most other solutions. While lower levels of attenuation are available, even -12dB isn't as much as you think. I would say you should go straight for the -12dB. Anything lower won't be worth your time.

 

FWIW, they are too long and thin to work well in the verticle orientation required by the Crack's default RCA inputs, so I would get a pair of these, too.

 

Best regards,

Adam


Exactly what I do and use. And yes, -12dB is very subtle.

post #1747 of 5571

Do you guys feel the Harrison attenuators are too long? I looked at the pics (the one with Schiit DAC) and boy it is really long! I don't think it is gonna fit my setup - I don't have much space behind the DAC, and putting it on the crack side might not work too (even with the L adapter).

 

I am currently using this, asked the seller for 300 ohms. It cuts the signal a bit just before the headphone, and you might also be able to use lower impedance cans with the crack (YMMV, never tried it). If your aim is to cut the signal, get the highest resistance just like with the Harrisons, lower ones won't do much.

post #1748 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by j123my View Post

Do you guys feel the Harrison attenuators are too long?
I put the Harrison attenuators between 2 RCA cables so they don't stick out of the top of the Crack.
Edited by Draygonn - 4/22/13 at 1:57pm
post #1749 of 5571

Apparently with the 12AU7 to 6SN7 there is a difference between the 6.3V and 12V version of the adapters.   The ebay seller told me that the one I have that doesn't work is wired for 12V and that I need the 6.3V version.

 

I have no idea if this is true or not, but I wanted to relay the info here for anyone concerned.

post #1750 of 5571

Hmmmm......here's the link to the exact adapter I purchased.  It does mention in the ad a 6.3V version and a 12V version.  There is then a link to the 12V version.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300854844401?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

post #1751 of 5571

Is the transformer upgraded in the crack? When reading the begining of this thread Doc mentionned the transformer is ran at its limit and that the extra power requierement of the 6SN7 may be too much that is why the Crack doesn't have an octal socket in the first place.

post #1752 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by BmWr75 View Post

Hmmmm......here's the link to the exact adapter I purchased.  It does mention in the ad a 6.3V version and a 12V version.  There is then a link to the 12V version.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300854844401?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Is yours working in the Bottlehead?

 

I got mine from the same seller and mine is the 12v version.   They're offering to send me another.

post #1753 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by telecaster View Post

Is the transformer upgraded in the crack? When reading the begining of this thread Doc mentionned the transformer is ran at its limit and that the extra power requierement of the 6SN7 may be too much that is why the Crack doesn't have an octal socket in the first place.

 

 

Here is what Doc said specifically about 4 weeks ago.

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/476650/crack-bottlehead-otl/1680#post_9308197

post #1754 of 5571
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhead View Post

Is yours working in the Bottlehead?

 

I got mine from the same seller and mine is the 12v version.   They're offering to send me another.

 

Yes, mine is installed and works fine in the Crack.  Have been using it ever since it arrived.

 

On the 6.3v vs, 12v issue, I am not sure why they make two versions.  The 6SN7 requires a 6.3v heater voltage, have no idea how a 12v heater voltage would work with a 6SN7 tube.

post #1755 of 5571
Going to join the crack and speed addicts club in maybe 2 weeks. that kit does take a long time to ship.
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