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Trying to get started in DIY - advice?

post #1 of 54
2/19/10 at 3:01am
Thread Starter 
I'm planning to build a Millet Minimax or Max eventually, but I have no experience in soldering (or equipment). So I'm planning to buy that and try to build a cmoy amp then move on to the Millet.

(excuse any stupid questions )

I'm planning to get a Hakko 936. What size chisel tip should I get?

Some 63/37 solder--.025" good? Clean or no clean?

Does it really matter what size desoldering braid I get? Also going to get a solder sucker thing...

Getting tweezers, multimeter, 99% alcohol, Panavise base + circuit board holder. (already have wire stripper/cutter)

Anything else I need/forgot? Any more suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks guys
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post #2 of 54
2/19/10 at 3:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nate911 View Post
I'm planning to build a Millet Minimax or Max eventually, but I have no experience in soldering (or equipment). So I'm planning to buy that and try to build a cmoy amp then move on to the Millet.

(excuse any stupid questions )

I'm planning to get a Hakko 936. What size chisel tip should I get?
The 1.6D comes standard with most 936's. It's perfect for through-hole work and the stuff done around here. A 0.8D tip is good for SMD work.
Quote:

Some 63/37 solder--.025" good? Clean or no clean?
The #44 flux is best - #24-6337-0018. 0.025" is perfect - good for through-hole and just small enough to be OK for SMD. Much smaller and the solder will break all the time and is hard to work with.
Quote:

Does it really matter what size desoldering braid I get? Also going to get a solder sucker thing...
Yes, de-soldering braid can be too big. I use a 0.1" width braid, but that's just a personal preference. Use additional flux, even if the braid is pre-impregnated (it's never enough).
Quote:

Getting tweezers, multimeter, 99% alcohol, Panavise base + circuit board holder. (already have wire stripper/cutter)
Don't skimp on the flush cutter - and it's different than a wire stripper/cutter. You need the flush cutter to trim the leads after the parts are soldered into a PCB.
Quote:

Anything else I need/forgot? Any more suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks guys
Refer to Tangent's excellent tool makeup tutorials here:
Getting Started in Audio DIY
He removed the tool tables, unfortunately, but if you post with specific questions on other tools, someone should be able to help.
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post #3 of 54
2/19/10 at 4:42am
I got started with only a soldering iron (and solder), stripper, wire cutters and DMM. Of course I needed all the parts, heatshrink and wire, but I didn't have flush cutters, desoldering braid, sucker, helping hands or anything.

That doesn't mean they aren't very useful and you'll surely get them eventually. My point is that just start working and you'll figure out what you need very fast. It's kinda cool not having everything when you start because then when you get it everything is just so easy! Have fun
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post #4 of 54
2/19/10 at 5:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
.Don't skimp on the flush cutter - and it's different than a wire stripper/cutter. You need the flush cutter to trim the leads after the parts are soldered into a PCB.
(I'm assuming this braid is alright.)
Any suggestions on a specific cutter?

And yes I've watched Tangent's videos--great site.

I suppose it's worth it to spend the extra money on the Panavise versus Helping Hands right?

Quote:
I got started with only a soldering iron (and solder), stripper, wire cutters and DMM. Of course I needed all the parts, heatshrink and wire, but I didn't have flush cutters, desoldering braid, sucker, helping hands or anything.

That doesn't mean they aren't very useful and you'll surely get them eventually. My point is that just start working and you'll figure out what you need very fast. It's kinda cool not having everything when you start because then when you get it everything is just so easy! Have fun
I figure if I get everything at first I'll save on shipping...but I get what you're saying.

Thanks for the replies guys.
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post #5 of 54
2/19/10 at 5:50am
that 99% alcohol is frikin expensive, 91% is good enough and 5x cheaper. (usually available at grocery store for a dollar or so)
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post #6 of 54
2/19/10 at 5:58am
I think helping hands are fine for starting out. Especially good for cables, which the Panavise doesn't really do. The Panavise is mostly just for circuit board work, which you can do fine on a flat surface anyway.
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post #7 of 54
2/19/10 at 8:45am
Best advice I can give... triple check your orders to DigiKey, Mouser and the like. else you'll get stuff you don't need and will likely never need... and thus you will have to go through the hassle of returning it.

And, hold on to your wallet
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post #8 of 54
2/19/10 at 11:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nate911 View Post
(I'm assuming this braid is alright.)
Any suggestions on a specific cutter?
Yeah, the braid looks OK. As for the flush cutter, I think the oval head type are best - more strength in the jaws. I've broken smaller and less quality ones. You also want a "full-flush" type. The idea is to snip those soldered leads under the PCB as close to the surface as you can get.

As I say, it's one of the tools I've really invested in (SMD tweezers and the soldering iron are also in that category). Some of those leads on axial rectifiers or big caps can snap a cheaper cutter in a heartbeat. I think the one I use is the Xcelite MS54J. (Some people might still consider that one cheap.)

Another item that comes in handy - although the one I use is a $1.99 version from Harbor Freight - is a smooth-jaw version of needle nose pliers. You don't want to be pressing ugly knurling into every part lead you have to bend or shape.
Quote:

And yes I've watched Tangent's videos--great site.

I suppose it's worth it to spend the extra money on the Panavise versus Helping Hands right?
I've never had a Panavise. I still use the helping hands (or two of them together) for tiny SMD and wiring. For bigger boards, I just use a quality piece of flat pine board. You can turn the PCB over and press down on the parts, keeping them flush to the PCB, while you're soldering them. It's worked for me for years. You can see this on the MAX/MiniMAX websites.
Quote:

I figure if I get everything at first I'll save on shipping...but I get what you're saying.

Thanks for the replies guys.
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post #9 of 54
2/19/10 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
that 99% alcohol is frikin expensive, 91% is good enough and 5x cheaper. (usually available at grocery store for a dollar or so)
I used to think this. then I got some 99% stuff and now I'm a believer

I could not get a clean board with the 91% stuff. it was almost like using regular water.

you don't use that much, so get the better stuff.

depending on the board, I'll even run hot tap water over it after brushing some alc. on the trouble areas and then use canned air to blast the water right off. gets me a nice shiny clean board and very easy to examine for shorts or opens.
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post #10 of 54
2/19/10 at 12:37pm
I really like Tangents liquid flux for removing components with braid, everyone should have a bottle.
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post #11 of 54
2/19/10 at 2:00pm
Could you expand on that? I have the daunting (to me) task of replacing a volume pot and two gain resistors today, and I'm looking for a good way to get it out, cleanly. I've used braid in the past, but it never sucks it out of the hole, and I get a little concave on both sides, solder bubble in the hole. I have a flux pen, in preparation for the BantamDAC. Can I use it to somehow make the desolder easier?
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post #12 of 54
2/19/10 at 3:34pm
Thread Starter 
I got Tangent's tool tables by going back in time heh, link!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juaquin View Post
I think helping hands are fine for starting out. Especially good for cables, which the Panavise doesn't really do. The Panavise is mostly just for circuit board work, which you can do fine on a flat surface anyway.
Hmm. I may get helping hands for the cmoy then see if I need the Panavise for the Millet or anything else...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbasser View Post
Best advice I can give... triple check your orders to DigiKey, Mouser and the like. else you'll get stuff you don't need and will likely never need... and thus you will have to go through the hassle of returning it.

And, hold on to your wallet
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
Yeah, the braid looks OK. As for the flush cutter, I think the oval head type are best - more strength in the jaws. I've broken smaller and less quality ones. You also want a "full-flush" type. The idea is to snip those soldered leads under the PCB as close to the surface as you can get.

As I say, it's one of the tools I've really invested in (SMD tweezers and the soldering iron are also in that category). Some of those leads on axial rectifiers or big caps can snap a cheaper cutter in a heartbeat. I think the one I use is the Xcelite MS54J. (Some people might still consider that one cheap.)

Another item that comes in handy - although the one I use is a $1.99 version from Harbor Freight - is a smooth-jaw version of needle nose pliers. You don't want to be pressing ugly knurling into every part lead you have to bend or shape.I've never had a Panavise. I still use the helping hands (or two of them together) for tiny SMD and wiring. For bigger boards, I just use a quality piece of flat pine board. You can turn the PCB over and press down on the parts, keeping them flush to the PCB, while you're soldering them. It's worked for me for years. You can see this on the MAX/MiniMAX websites.
Alright, I'll look into those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxworks View Post
I used to think this. then I got some 99% stuff and now I'm a believer

I could not get a clean board with the 91% stuff. it was almost like using regular water.

you don't use that much, so get the better stuff.

depending on the board, I'll even run hot tap water over it after brushing some alc. on the trouble areas and then use canned air to blast the water right off. gets me a nice shiny clean board and very easy to examine for shorts or opens.
Where did you purchase your 99%? No local places seem to sell it (from what I've looked up).
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post #13 of 54
2/19/10 at 4:18pm
my supermarket has 99% alc! surprised me, actually

now, if they would start stocking pcb etchant, we'd really have something here!
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post #14 of 54
2/19/10 at 4:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxworks View Post
my supermarket has 99% alc! surprised me, actually

now, if they would start stocking pcb etchant, we'd really have something here!
Hah...guess I'll look around and see what I can find.
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post #15 of 54
2/19/10 at 4:43pm
You might also want a desolder pump, even better with a Teflon tip.
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