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DIY mini-to-mini interconnect advice

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I love this kind of stuff and I've got a fairly steady hand so I'm going to make a short interconnect for my Zune/amp combo. I've decided on CryoParts (expensive but the stuff is art and Lee has been great with my questions). I've read the fantastic step-by-step from brschmid, but it doesn't address a couple of things. My questions:

-What is the recommended length if I plan to stack the two devices? Is 4" too short?
-I've notice a lot of you that go with Cryo's SCSCag leave it "naked" and braided. LOVE the look, but does it require a sleeve or shielding?
-Do the solder points inside the connectors require any sort of sealing or shrink tubing?

I appreciate any advice folks. I'm very new to all this.

-Greg
post #2 of 20
4" is a fine length, if the devices aren't real tall.

Sleeve isn't required, although technically shielding can prevent interference. I built a six-layer cable (can't say what's inside...) for the car that eliminated a hum problem I was having. If you hear noise, or just want to experiment, try some tinned copper braid that's connected at the source end of the cable's negative terminal.

I would wrap some teflon tape around the contacts after covering them with hot glue just in case they somehow touch the metal body of the plug and short out. You don't want the left/right contacts to touch the plug's metal body as it is connected to the ground contact assembly.
post #3 of 20
Scootermafia is a master at what he does. Listen well.
post #4 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Scootermafia. I did end up having Lee at CryoParts send me a length of the tinned copper shielding. Does it need to be connected to a terminal? Also, this may be a silly question, but will it be clear which is the positive and negative terminal? I bought the Viablue mini and don't expect that it comes with destructions.
post #5 of 20
Here's a thread with some pics to help you out. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...ep-pics-50729/
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
I read that. It is bitchen. An excellent reference that I've bookmarked for when I get to work.
post #7 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediaogre View Post
Thanks, Scootermafia. I did end up having Lee at CryoParts send me a length of the tinned copper shielding. Does it need to be connected to a terminal? Also, this may be a silly question, but will it be clear which is the positive and negative terminal? I bought the Viablue mini and don't expect that it comes with destructions.
Common practice is to connect the shielding at the source end of the cable and let it float at the other end. Do you have a multimeter? It is a super useful tool if you build cables. You can use it to check continuity from tips to tabs, and from tips to wire ends if they are not clearly marked.
post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
Common practice is to connect the shielding at the source end of the cable and let it float at the other end. Do you have a multimeter? It is a super useful tool if you build cables. You can use it to check continuity from tips to tabs, and from tips to wire ends if they are not clearly marked.
Fraggler, I can't thank you enough. I would have skipped that shielding connection tip easily if not for your advice. I can't image not enjoying building cables. I'll pick up a multimeter. Thanks, doode. Would I be stupid to think one can test the resistance of the cable with a multimeter?
post #9 of 20
My pleasure. Everything I have learned, I learned here from fine people on this forum so I am just continuing the tradition. As for your multimeter question, I am not sure, although, I believe that is actually what I am testing when I say continuity. A reading of zero is what I want when I test two ends, so zero resistance makes sense if I haven't shorted something or botched a joint. By making this statement, I am sure that some more knowledgeable person will come set us straight if I am wrong rather quickly.
post #10 of 20
Thread Starter 
I hope to continue it my self someday. I'm definitely having one of those, the-Internet-is-a-great-thing moments. :-)

I should have asked this before - when connecting the shielding, does it connect to a particular terminal or the ground? Ground makes sense, but I want to be sure.
post #11 of 20
yes, shielding should be connected to the ground
post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by S J View Post
yes, shielding should be connected to the ground
Thanks, SJ. You guys are great. Lee at Cryo said I should have the parts this week. I'll upload a photo and results of my first Frankenstein member.
post #13 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the advice, folks. Geez, those ViaBlue terminals are tiny!

All terminals measure 100% continuity, or technically, on the multimeter's scale, the exact opposite of that which is zero resistance. The tinned copper shielding is soldered to the ground terminal on the source side of the cable, so I left a little of the adhesive shrink tube showing on that end for identification. (Rather than scratching or writing "S" for source. It was late. Creativity was sacrificed for simplicity.)

Here are a few photos:
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #14 of 20
Looks great! Well done. There is a DIY cable gallery stickied in the DIY forum. Post there were the rest of us cable nuts share our work.
post #15 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
Looks great! Well done. There is a DIY cable gallery stickied in the DIY forum. Post there were the rest of us cable nuts share our work.
Thanks, FraGGleR! Will do.
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