I didn't see a re-cabling thread for this specific headphone and I just did mine the other day so I thought I'd post what I did. I found that they were very easy to work on compared to my SR60s due to the fact that they were not glued together...
These are just my office headphones so I didn't do anything too fancy with them but at least I can show how to go about working on them.
1. Remove ear pads: These come off very easily. Just gently pull them from the center-out until they come up over the plastic lip that holds them in place. The more gentle you are, the less they will stretch from the process.
2. Disassemble Cups+Drivers: Once you have the ear pads off, you'll see two shiny screws holding the driver assemblies on the cups. Take these out carefully, and match your screwdriver size so that you don't strip the heads out at all. Set them aside where you won't lose them- I like to use a magnetic automotive bolt tray for little screws like these.
Note: I performed the entire process while leaving the cups attached to the headband. I've seen so many of these phones pop up on here with the headband-to-cup part broken that I decided not to mess with them at all. It wasn't hard to work around and saved me the possibility of snapping these fragile parts in half.
Now you should have something similar to this first picture.
3. Mark Polarity: This is an important step! Take your multimeter and verify the polarity of both of the drivers. Once you know what these are mark the drivers with a permanent marker of sorts so that you don't forget.
4. Remove Old Cable: Fire up your soldering iron and remove the existing cable. You'll notice that the stock cable is first tied in a knot, and then lightly glued in place. The glue is very soft and I was able to remove it by simply peeling it off w/ my fingernails.
Note: Before you untie the knots and pull the old cable out, take note of the length of wire needed from the knot to the driver. You'll use this length when you pull your new cable in.
As you can see in the picture below, there are a total of 4 solder pads on each driver. The stock cable comes attached to the two outer pads and these are the same two that I used.
5. Pull New Cable: Depending on the size of the new wire you are pulling into the headphones, you may have to remove the rubber grommets at the bottom of each cup, as I did. You can remove these without damage by pushing them in from the bottom (outside) while gently twisting. Be patient with them and they'll pop right out after a little bit of effort.
6. Strain Relief: I then tied a knot in my new cable and shoved it into the same slot that was previously used by the stock cable. Depending on personal taste, you could use wire ties, hot glue, etc. to perform this strain relief. Whatever you do, just make sure it's secure so that you're not ever putting a load on the solder points on the drivers!
7. Solder to Drivers: Carefully solder the new wires to the same pads that the old wires used. Be sure that you don't heat the boards for too long, as you don't want to melt the other solder points on the board, possibly disconnecting the drivers themselves from the mini board. A little liquid flux made this very easy.
Note: Now is a good time to terminate the plug-end of the cable, so that you can make sure you get your polarities right. I had the cable end finished already on this one so I don't have any pictures for that part, but there is more than enough info around in this forum for that!
8. Closing Them Up: Once you've wired up both of your drivers, just reattach them to the cups with the small screws, making sure that the wires don't interfere with the hinge pins inside. If you made your wires the same length inside as the stock ones, this shouldn't be an issue.
9. Reinstall Ear Pads: This was a little trickier than pulling them off, but still not too difficult. Start from one side, and work the edge of the pads over the plastic lip. You'll have to hold the pad on at your start point to keep it from coming out as you work your way around. You may find that you have to stretch them just a bit to get them all the way on, but they should happily return to their normal size as they settle into position.
Plug them in and enjoy!
I hope that this was helpful! Please feel free to add any questions, comments, etc!
These are just my office headphones so I didn't do anything too fancy with them but at least I can show how to go about working on them.
1. Remove ear pads: These come off very easily. Just gently pull them from the center-out until they come up over the plastic lip that holds them in place. The more gentle you are, the less they will stretch from the process.
2. Disassemble Cups+Drivers: Once you have the ear pads off, you'll see two shiny screws holding the driver assemblies on the cups. Take these out carefully, and match your screwdriver size so that you don't strip the heads out at all. Set them aside where you won't lose them- I like to use a magnetic automotive bolt tray for little screws like these.
Note: I performed the entire process while leaving the cups attached to the headband. I've seen so many of these phones pop up on here with the headband-to-cup part broken that I decided not to mess with them at all. It wasn't hard to work around and saved me the possibility of snapping these fragile parts in half.
Now you should have something similar to this first picture.
3. Mark Polarity: This is an important step! Take your multimeter and verify the polarity of both of the drivers. Once you know what these are mark the drivers with a permanent marker of sorts so that you don't forget.
4. Remove Old Cable: Fire up your soldering iron and remove the existing cable. You'll notice that the stock cable is first tied in a knot, and then lightly glued in place. The glue is very soft and I was able to remove it by simply peeling it off w/ my fingernails.
Note: Before you untie the knots and pull the old cable out, take note of the length of wire needed from the knot to the driver. You'll use this length when you pull your new cable in.
As you can see in the picture below, there are a total of 4 solder pads on each driver. The stock cable comes attached to the two outer pads and these are the same two that I used.
5. Pull New Cable: Depending on the size of the new wire you are pulling into the headphones, you may have to remove the rubber grommets at the bottom of each cup, as I did. You can remove these without damage by pushing them in from the bottom (outside) while gently twisting. Be patient with them and they'll pop right out after a little bit of effort.
6. Strain Relief: I then tied a knot in my new cable and shoved it into the same slot that was previously used by the stock cable. Depending on personal taste, you could use wire ties, hot glue, etc. to perform this strain relief. Whatever you do, just make sure it's secure so that you're not ever putting a load on the solder points on the drivers!
7. Solder to Drivers: Carefully solder the new wires to the same pads that the old wires used. Be sure that you don't heat the boards for too long, as you don't want to melt the other solder points on the board, possibly disconnecting the drivers themselves from the mini board. A little liquid flux made this very easy.
Note: Now is a good time to terminate the plug-end of the cable, so that you can make sure you get your polarities right. I had the cable end finished already on this one so I don't have any pictures for that part, but there is more than enough info around in this forum for that!
8. Closing Them Up: Once you've wired up both of your drivers, just reattach them to the cups with the small screws, making sure that the wires don't interfere with the hinge pins inside. If you made your wires the same length inside as the stock ones, this shouldn't be an issue.
9. Reinstall Ear Pads: This was a little trickier than pulling them off, but still not too difficult. Start from one side, and work the edge of the pads over the plastic lip. You'll have to hold the pad on at your start point to keep it from coming out as you work your way around. You may find that you have to stretch them just a bit to get them all the way on, but they should happily return to their normal size as they settle into position.
Plug them in and enjoy!
I hope that this was helpful! Please feel free to add any questions, comments, etc!
