Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Portable Source Gear › iRiver iHP-140 with 128GB SSD
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

iRiver iHP-140 with 128GB SSD - Page 9

post #121 of 128

can anyone point or show me to a 64gb ssd drive for a iriver h340? theres so many compatability issues that i dont want to mess up. im gonna go for the smaller size ssd because i want to do this as cheaply as possible. thanks guys.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #122 of 128

Where are you in the world? I know that memoryc sells compatible drives through amazon but don't know if they ship internationally?  I THINK it's this one :-

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/KingSpec-1-8-inch-50-pin-Solid-State/dp/B007PFI5HS/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1363294973&sr=8-15

 

but I STRESS THAT I AM NOT SURE as I got the 128.  I think it looks like that one but could be wrong, proceed at own risk (think that's my arse covered :) ).

 

Cheers

post #123 of 128

hello, im in dublin and i think memoryc is a few miles away from me in celbridge. could i be that lucky?

 

was just looking at this on a local adverts listing 

 

http://www.adverts.ie/hard-drives/32gb-runcore-pro-iv-1-8-pata-ide-solid-state-drive-ssd/2237947

post #124 of 128

Avoid runcore and supertalent apparantly.  You will need to have rockbox working on the original drive for this to happen.

 

Kingspec are known to work without any adaptors necessary so would stick with those.

 

Cheers

post #125 of 128

I did the SSD upgrade on my iHP-120 using a Kingspec 128gb SSD, and replaced the battery with the Cameron Sino 2200mAh whilst I had the case open. It was mostly straightforward.

 

I'd already previously flashed Rockbox to the player (V6) and it was working fine. The case opening and battery change instructions at http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html have the info about opening the case and stripping down the player to get at the battery. I copied the .rockbox directory off the player before I started.

 

I did the battery first. The battery is attached to the case using strips of double sided tape. I used the handle of the tweezers to put underneath the battery and carefully ease it off the case. I then put a small new piece of double sided tape on the case to hold the new battery.

 

Getting at the battery was tricky, but the instructions from the link above are good - but be careful and patient, the screws are tiny!Getting the battery connector out was difficult - there's *just* enough room to do it. I put a pair of tweezers around the connector from the side, then eased it back and turned it upward as I did, and it came out. It wasn't easy, the connector was a tight fit, and felt like something would break before it came out.

Putting the new connector in was slightly less awkward, but be careful you get it lined up properly - it looks like it could be easy to bend two tiny contacts in the battery plug socket that plug into the new battery connector.

 

After putting the motherboard back, I put the old HDD back, and closed the case with a screw either end, then turned it on to make sure the battery was OK and the player worked. I then gave it a charge for about an hour to be on the safe side. Then I opened the case again, stuck the battery to the new double sided tape to hold it in position, took out the HDD and replaced it with the Kingspec SSD. When I put the case back together, the rubber anti-vibration cover that was over the old HDD made the fit too tight with the new battery for the case to close easily, so I left it out.

 

I then connected the iRiver to my PC, erased the factory NTFS partition, and formatted the drive to a single FAT32 partition using Swissknife. I then copied across the .rockbox directory, unmounted the player from the PC and booted it up.

 

It worked first time.

 

Overall impression so far is that the access time is much quicker than the HDD. I've been using the optical line out to my DAC, and battery life seems to be improved, so it's given the player a new life.

 

The HDD-SSD swap is easy, the battery replacement more tricky. You need a T-5 torx driver, and I'd recommend a pair of reasonably fine tweezers to help get the battery connector out.

 

These are just my experiences of course - you do the mod at your own risk.


Edited by Ditch46uk - 4/16/13 at 12:20pm
post #126 of 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch46uk View Post

I did the SSD upgrade on my iHP-120 using a Kingspec 128gb SSD, and replaced the battery with the Cameron Sino 2200mAh whilst I had the case open. It was mostly straightforward.

 

I'd already previously flashed Rockbox to the player (V6) and it was working fine. The case opening and battery change instructions at http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html have the info about opening the case and stripping down the player to get at the battery. I copied the .rockbox directory off the player before I started.

 

I did the battery first. The battery is attached to the case using strips of double sided tape. I used the handle of the tweezers to put underneath the battery and carefully ease it off the case. I then put a small new piece of double sided tape on the case to hold the new battery.

 

Getting at the battery was tricky, but the instructions from the link above are good - but be careful and patient, the screws are tiny!Getting the battery connector out was difficult - there's *just* enough room to do it. I put a pair of tweezers around the connector from the side, then eased it back and turned it upward as I did, and it came out. It wasn't easy, the connector was a tight fit, and felt like something would break before it came out.

Putting the new connector in was slightly less awkward, but be careful you get it lined up properly - it looks like it could be easy to bend two tiny contacts in the battery plug socket that plug into the new battery connector.

 

After putting the motherboard back, I put the old HDD back, and closed the case with a screw either end, then turned it on to make sure the battery was OK and the player worked. I then gave it a charge for about an hour to be on the safe side. Then I opened the case again, stuck the battery to the new double sided tape to hold it in position, took out the HDD and replaced it with the Kingspec SSD. When I put the case back together, the rubber anti-vibration cover that was over the old HDD made the fit too tight with the new battery for the case to close easily, so I left it out.

 

I then connected the iRiver to my PC, erased the factory NTFS partition, and formatted the drive to a single FAT32 partition using Swissknife. I then copied across the .rockbox directory, unmounted the player from the PC and booted it up.

 

It worked first time.

 

Overall impression so far is that the access time is much quicker than the HDD. I've been using the optical line out to my DAC, and battery life seems to be improved, so it's given the player a new life.

 

The HDD-SSD swap is easy, the battery replacement more tricky. You need a T-5 torx driver, and I'd recommend a pair of reasonably fine tweezers to help get the battery connector out.

 

These are just my experiences of course - you do the mod at your own risk.


Very nice! So the SSD does not need an adapter? I have several HXXX, well 7, with a couple have a 120gb HD and some with 80gb but like the SSD in my mac computer as it is much, mush faster.

post #127 of 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch46uk View Post

I did the SSD upgrade on my iHP-120 using a Kingspec 128gb SSD, and replaced the battery with the Cameron Sino 2200mAh whilst I had the case open. It was mostly straightforward.

 

I'd already previously flashed Rockbox to the player (V6) and it was working fine. The case opening and battery change instructions at http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html have the info about opening the case and stripping down the player to get at the battery. I copied the .rockbox directory off the player before I started.

 

I did the battery first. The battery is attached to the case using strips of double sided tape. I used the handle of the tweezers to put underneath the battery and carefully ease it off the case. I then put a small new piece of double sided tape on the case to hold the new battery.

 

Getting at the battery was tricky, but the instructions from the link above are good - but be careful and patient, the screws are tiny!Getting the battery connector out was difficult - there's *just* enough room to do it. I put a pair of tweezers around the connector from the side, then eased it back and turned it upward as I did, and it came out. It wasn't easy, the connector was a tight fit, and felt like something would break before it came out.

Putting the new connector in was slightly less awkward, but be careful you get it lined up properly - it looks like it could be easy to bend two tiny contacts in the battery plug socket that plug into the new battery connector.

 

After putting the motherboard back, I put the old HDD back, and closed the case with a screw either end, then turned it on to make sure the battery was OK and the player worked. I then gave it a charge for about an hour to be on the safe side. Then I opened the case again, stuck the battery to the new double sided tape to hold it in position, took out the HDD and replaced it with the Kingspec SSD. When I put the case back together, the rubber anti-vibration cover that was over the old HDD made the fit too tight with the new battery for the case to close easily, so I left it out.

 

I then connected the iRiver to my PC, erased the factory NTFS partition, and formatted the drive to a single FAT32 partition using Swissknife. I then copied across the .rockbox directory, unmounted the player from the PC and booted it up.

 

It worked first time.

 

Overall impression so far is that the access time is much quicker than the HDD. I've been using the optical line out to my DAC, and battery life seems to be improved, so it's given the player a new life.

 

The HDD-SSD swap is easy, the battery replacement more tricky. You need a T-5 torx driver, and I'd recommend a pair of reasonably fine tweezers to help get the battery connector out.

 

These are just my experiences of course - you do the mod at your own risk.


That was pretty much my experience, but I couldn't get at the battery (step 5, just didn't want to happen) easily and didn't want to force it.  As I still get 10-12 hours on the original (!) battery I decided to leave it.  I STILL find it amazing that to get a decent player (with rockbox we get gapless, folder browsing, decent battery life flac, alac, etc) we have to mod the older ones like the 5th gen ipod and the irivers.  Sadly I have to admit that the iriver is still a tad large to carry around these days.  I still contemplate getting a 256 gig ssd for it but the necessary adapters aren't available over here in the uk and by the time you add those to the mod it's not worth it.  Maybe one day.

 

Cheers

post #128 of 128

The battery connection is much easier to put back in if you take some of the plastic off of the connector. I sand it down with a fingernail file. The end that goes in first. That shortens the connector and it will slide in. I have replaced many of the batteries over the years. I have also changed out capacitors, which improves the sound as the SMD caps they use in the signal path are outdated and there are better. I have one with Black Gate caps. Tight fit but interesting. I also converted one to coax as well has preserving the optical out.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Portable Source Gear

Gear mentioned in this thread:

Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Portable Source Gear › iRiver iHP-140 with 128GB SSD