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Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 (DAC/Amp) - Condensed FAQ and Info Thread - Page 5

post #61 of 727
Thread Starter 
Yea, I'll clean it up. I think the first config throws it off due to the text at the end creating another line. I've been needing to make an edit anyway. Give me a few minutes
post #62 of 727
Thread Starter 
Done, is it better? I made sure it all aligned and looked like a table all the way down to 1024x768 resolution.
post #63 of 727
Quick question.

I just got some op amps to roll. Do I need to ground my self? I do not have one of the fancy bracelets. Can I just connect a alligator clip to my watch and a ground point on the D1?

Thanks Scott
post #64 of 727
Thread Starter 
Personally, I have never fried anything with static discharge and I work on many computers but I guess it depends a lot on the humidity and environment you work in. I'd say plug the Mav in, make sure the power is off, clip onto the white wire that connects to the chassis, and hang onto that wire. That, or hang onto a bare metal spot on your computer or some other grounded spot.
post #65 of 727
Thanks Spanky

All transplants were a success. New Op amps and Windmill Getter Raytheon.

Scott
post #66 of 727
Yep, it looks great Spanky.
post #67 of 727
I bought this amp recently and have some questions hope someone can answer.

How do I use the pre-amp tube output to listen through my headphone?
In the FAQ it's said that its HOT and I cannot plug my headphone directly in it.


My setup is as follows
Foobar-> USB-> D1->DT880

Now i have a usb wireless mouse connected to my laptop, whenever i click something with my mouse the D1 makes a loud click noise.

Is this normal?
post #68 of 727
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahaneo View Post
I bought this amp recently and have some questions hope someone can answer.

How do I use the pre-amp tube output to listen through my headphone?
In the FAQ it's said that its HOT and I cannot plug my headphone directly in it.
Get another headphone amp and connect it to the pre-amp tube output.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ahaneo View Post
My setup is as follows
Foobar-> USB-> D1->DT880

Now i have a usb wireless mouse connected to my laptop, whenever i click something with my mouse the D1 makes a loud click noise.

Is this normal?
You answered your own question. It's a common issue, I get it on my desktop with a corded mouse. You can try different USB ports but that may not change it. SPDIF is preferred.
post #69 of 727
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Spanky_ View Post
Get another headphone amp and connect it to the pre-amp tube output.


You answered your own question. It's a common issue, I get it on my desktop with a corded mouse. You can try different USB ports but that may not change it. SPDIF is preferred.
Thanks for the quick reply
post #70 of 727
Thread Starter 
No problem. If you don't mind the recommendation, you can do what igotyofire did:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-...otyofire_1.jpg

He used the tube pre-amp out into a Bravo Audio Tube Amp, you know, one of those little cheapie clear things on eBay.
post #71 of 727
Just received the Maverick, I'm taking a chance that it'll improve the sound from the Squeezebox. Or maybe chancing that I'll hear it .


A few questions -

1. How long should the burn-in be? What exactly needs to burn-in, the tube or all the electronics in general?

2. For the burn-in, does it need a signal running thru it or just power?

3. Is there any sonic difference between optical & coax digital inputs?

4. Does switching the opamp power supply make a significant difference or are we splitting hairs & having fun taking things apart?

One other thing - I don't know much about digital outputs in general. Are digital outs variable like their analog counterparts? Meaning, for instance, can I still use the built-in volume control on the squeezebox while using the digital output?

Thanks!
post #72 of 727
Thread Starter 
I know a couple people, including Ryan (owner of Maverick Audio) that use the D1 with the Squeezebox and enjoy it.

Burn-in... I don't know. I think I noticed it, but I don't know if it's there or not. If I were you, I would leave the unit on while you're home. Having my unit as long as I have, I trust the power supply in my unit but they don't have a UL listing so just watch it for a bit. I would run digital sound into it if you want to burn it in.

I don't think there's any sonic differences between coaxial and optical. They're both digital. Some components have issues with cutting the signal when pausing or stopping so you may get a pop or something when using one and not the other. Other than that, optical doesn't have grounding issues.

Power supply for the opamps, I assume you mean the power supply for the whole unit? I'm sure there's room to improve but it's not a drop in and go kinda thing, the wires are soldered to the PCB and you would have to know what voltage goes where. I wouldn't know what power supply would be an improvement. I'm sure you could post in the DIY section with the specs from this power supply and get a few answers.
post #73 of 727
Thanks Spanky, and BTW thanks for putting together this bible of a thread.

With the opamps I was referring to this -


Quote:
Originally Posted by _Spanky_ View Post
Opamp Swapping:
DAC [U5] -------- Amp [U6] -------- Result
LT1364CN8#PBF -- LM4562NA/NOPB -- Less shrill, more detailed bass, very low DC offset.
OPA627 ---------- N/A -------------- Clean and laidback. Great for grainy/bad recordings.
N/A -------------- AD823 ----------- Forward, in your face. Good for warm 'phones. DC Offset: 120/180mV
N/A -------------- LME49720 -------- Neutral and natural. DC Offset: 120/180mV

N/A usually means that the stock (LF343N) opamp was left in place.

Bad opamps: (High DC Offset or oscillation)
AD797, AD843, LME49860, LME49720

I recognize that swapping tubes will have a fairly significant impact on the sound, just wondering if swapping opamps has the same level of effect or if we're splitting hairs at this point.

I'm using the unit as a preamp, not for headphones, so the only possibility that's realistic would be trying the LT1364CN8#PBF.

A lot of folks made a stink about changing the PS for the Squeezebox to a larger, linear outboard piece vs the OEM wall wart but I found absolutely no difference that way, so at best that was splitting hairs, or certainly no low-hanging fruit anyway. So I'm wondering if swapping opamps in the D1 is something like that in terms of results. Make sense?
post #74 of 727
What kind of power cord can i buy to use with the maverick?the standard cable you get is far too short.
post #75 of 727
How about an extension cord?

It takes a common computer-type cord, three prong.
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