I've noticed that my LED has been pretty dim for the past couple of months or so, even when "fully charged"... whipped out my multimeter and found that the voltage across the rail is 3.3x volts, compared to 9.06V unloaded. The 3.3x volts definitely correlates to the dim LED... though I don't know if the voltage drop is supposed to be that low, or if this measurement is meaningless. Rail splitter works fine, with 土1.69V on each rail.
I attempted to measure the quiescent current on my Centech Harbor Fright multimeter but was unable to get a useful value. I had this problem last year with my other multimeter as well, but the fuse blew on that one... All options seem to give me an overlimit/over 1 value, but should be noted that it does not turn on the amp or light the LED. If I attempt to use the 10A slot, I can get a value of 0.05A, which kind of correlates to 5x mA, and this way the LED lights up. Without the batteries in place and measuring the current of the charging circuit, I get 0.01A for the 10A slot, and the value 0.01 for all the DCA's (200μ, 2000μ, 20m, 200m)... am I doing this right?
Anyways, the amp itself seems to work fine... I'm actually getting decent runtime out of it, but I have not payed attention... What should be noted is that the battery cracked open on the front side. That I believe is due to stress, as I have not clipped the battery leads, thus making the battery slightly elevated on the battery contact side when placed in its Hammond case. All diodes and zener diode tested fine (600, 600, 600, 800 respectively), nothing shorted, DC offset all below 0.05mV. I can't tell if the LM317 is working, but if the battery is charged at 9V, then I don't think it's the problem... maybe I'll steal one off of my parent's clock...
mini^3 mini³ mini3
I attempted to measure the quiescent current on my Centech Harbor Fright multimeter but was unable to get a useful value. I had this problem last year with my other multimeter as well, but the fuse blew on that one... All options seem to give me an overlimit/over 1 value, but should be noted that it does not turn on the amp or light the LED. If I attempt to use the 10A slot, I can get a value of 0.05A, which kind of correlates to 5x mA, and this way the LED lights up. Without the batteries in place and measuring the current of the charging circuit, I get 0.01A for the 10A slot, and the value 0.01 for all the DCA's (200μ, 2000μ, 20m, 200m)... am I doing this right?
Anyways, the amp itself seems to work fine... I'm actually getting decent runtime out of it, but I have not payed attention... What should be noted is that the battery cracked open on the front side. That I believe is due to stress, as I have not clipped the battery leads, thus making the battery slightly elevated on the battery contact side when placed in its Hammond case. All diodes and zener diode tested fine (600, 600, 600, 800 respectively), nothing shorted, DC offset all below 0.05mV. I can't tell if the LM317 is working, but if the battery is charged at 9V, then I don't think it's the problem... maybe I'll steal one off of my parent's clock...
mini^3 mini³ mini3
